Friday, February 13, 2009Cushnie et Ochs Celeste Bartos Forum, New York Public LibraryIn their sophomore showing of their namesake collection, recent Parson's grads & one of the '09 Ecco Domani Fashion Fund Winners Carly Cushnie & Michelle Ochs further defined themselves as being hard edged modernists without crossing the line into the cliché of "futuristic". There were definite nods to the Helmut Lang we loved (the one that Mr. Lang himself was still designing), but not literal enough to be confused with paying homage- this collection has its own voice. Their color palette was Black, Silver, White & Copper Metallic with the lone pattern being a white & Silver cloud-like print. Silhouettes were close to the body, asymmetrical & many pieces had single sheer sleeves matched with opaque. The only volume came in coats, the strongest of those being a black one with a wide fur back stripe resembling a Mohawk. This label has a future.. -pq Duckie Brown The Salon Missing were the more obvious bells & whistles many would argue are synonymous with the Duckie Brown brand DNA. Instead designers Steven Cox & Daniel Silver showed a dark & ominous collection of Black & Gray coats buttoned to the chin with Black Turtlenecks going even higher to eye level. The clothing was typically well fit & was made novel with bicep length leather gloves, giant neck scarves, & hats resembling giant Jiffy Popped pom poms, as well as the striking appearance of their signature shocking orange, which offered a much needed hopeful breath for the future. -pq Abaeté The Altman Building Abaeté did not disappoint! The collection of 26 looks was meticulously edited & strong for retail. Inspired by Les Incroyabes of the French Revolution – looks were chock full of petal/ draped panel skirts, light weight fabrics & feminine blouses. Colors were influenced by aged & tarnished clothing with tones of black & gunmetal gray with accents of blues, purples & rose. Accessorized by hanging chain belts & my personal fave – Abaeté for Payless Shoes. -Meredith Garcia Barbara TfankThe Carlyle HotelBarbara Tfank held a splendid Fall 2009 presentation at the Carlyle Hotel. The corner room on the 30th floor offered natural lighting that enhanced the feminine silhouettes draped in lavish fabrics. This collection was both versatile and charming – allowing a petal-sleeved dress to go from day to evening by throwing on a trapeze coat in black cloqué. Flourishing colors in fuchsia, jade, violet and gold were only a few from this collection. Indeed, an uplifting design and color range. -Elizabeth LechleiterTelfarSt. Mark’s ChurchSt. Mark’s Church was an interesting location for the A/W 2009 Telfar collection. The bazaar range of looks that pranced up and down the old church were lacking any sort of “wow” factor. In fact, it was more of a “huh” when the menswear began looking more feminine and the womenswear more masculine. The garments were reminiscent of rebellious schoolboy’s uniforms in black, white, navy and khaki. Zippers served as a focal design element on each look – and so did Mary Jane shoes. -Elizabeth LechleiterChadwick BellHosfelt GalleryA 1967 French film “Belle de Jour” inspired Chadwick Bell’s Fall 2009 collection; specifically the character Severine, meaning severe. Although the tailored pantsuits and dresses appear unrestricting the careful seam details evoke the impression of confinement. Feminine silhouettes were juxtaposed with fabrics typically linked with menswear such as wool flannel and herringbone prints. Silks, cashmere, alpaca and mohair wool were selectively used for cocktail dresses that were secured with leather straps. -Elizabeth LechleiterZang ToiZang Toi ShowroomOnce upon a time…Zang Toi’s Vienna Collection of beaded gowns, fox and mink fur wraps, leather hip huggers and velvet-trimmed jackets was quite glamorous. The space allowed for an up-close and personal view of each garment’s impeccable execution. Base colors of black and ivory were complimented with red and pink combinations for day and “a hint of imperial Vienna for night.” A fairytale come true!-Elizabeth LechleiterGraey Morgan CourtGraey’s presentation was held in a crowded little space with a surge of energetic music and colorful garments. Fuschia, orange sherbet, turquoise, and midnight rainbow covered a range of silhouettes. Loose and simple shaped kimono, corset and tank dresses made for a delightful collection that is sure to stand out in Fall 2009. -Elizabeth LechleiterHaute HippieShowroom 10ElevenHaute Hippie’s Fall 2009 collection was a definite party scene with a congested gathering of people eager to see what was to come… Of course sequined designs were incorporated into the bohemian inspired garments. The short and sexy dresses in silky fabrics and subtle shades are ideal for a chic night out. -Elizabeth LechleiterStaerkMilk StudiosCamilla Staerk's collection, entitled "The Photographer", was inspired from the late Robert Mapplethorpe who is known for black and white still life's that reflect the human form. Staerk strived to take this same ideology and place it into her collection. The colors reflected a common Staerk pallet program of white, black and gray. A core aesthetic which could be seen in her fall/winter collection was her production of a strong silhouette which was observed throughout the collection. Though the majority of the line was muted in color, it was thoughtfully supported by an assortment of metallic footwear. Staerk's line proved to be consistent with her previous collections, and illustrated a strong sense of her customer demographic. She is a strong ready-to-wear designer who finds herself in the perfect market to survive, New York City.-Kai Baukol Robert GellerFocusRobert Geller's reputation for starting a show late did not falter as most of the shows guests were asked to wait on the cold New York street until finally being let in forty five minutes past the scheduled start time; the good news for Geller is that his show was well worth the much anticipated wait. Geller who recently received GQ's Best New Menswear Designer in America produced a collection that echoed period Venetian menswear from the turn of the century. Washed out blacks and grays were accompanied by splashes of dusty rose and turquoise throughout the collection's color pallet. Geller used washed wools and faded colors strategically as a way to "carry a sense of history" in the garments. Geller modernized romantic pieces with his twist on Edwardian styled coats and jabot collars. Overall Geller left the crowd with a pleasant thought; menswear can take new shapes and forms as we move forward in time by thoughtfully reflecting on the past to get us there.-Kai BaukolChristian CotaThe Metropolitan PavillionFresh from his being chosen as The Fashion Group International’s ’09 Rising Star Award Recipient for women’s wear, Christian Cota showed his Fall ’09 collection in a stark presentation in Chelsea’s Metropolitan Pavilion. The collection of some 20 looks in 3 vignettes on models who were eerily identical made 3 definitive statements. The first vignette of pleated & sequined pieces that made it clear that Mr. Cota is a fan of Prada. In the 2nd vignette, he seemed to hit his personal stride with a collection of beautiful spectrum colored iridescent pieces combined with black sheers to create a sensational mélange of texture & silhouette. The standout here was a basic cap-sleeved shift dress with hand painted detailing resembling a National Geographic image of Mica. In the 3rd Vignette, Cota demonstrated his ability to trick the eye with the use of asymmetry to create balance through imbalance & pane velvets so rich as to appear to be heavy weight Silk Charmeuse. Hopefully, after two incredibly beautiful presentations in as many seasons, Christian Cota can maintain this type of momentum as this is precisely the ilk of efforts that deserve to eventually get rewarded in the end with a following.-pqShipley & Halmos25th StreetShowing their Fall/Winter 2009 Collection in an expansive loft in Chelsea, Models zigzagged across the floor at Shipley and Halmos, following a precise white line that wove through the giant white pillars. Showing looks that were sleek and modern- from the tight black turtlenecks with fingerless gloved sleeves, worn under everything, to the smooth ponytails and sleek black tights sported by the women, to the men’s high pompadours atop black sunglasses- the “Individualist” collection was nothing if not pulled together. The coolly neutral palette ranged from the obvious Black, through shades of Grey from Dove to Charcoal, and into Mauve, Teal, and Gold, and showcased sharp, well-tailored men’s suits and blazers; sleek and sexy women’s dresses and skirts; and fabulous coats, skinny dress pants, and luxe sweaters for all. Although not well-suited to a casual dresser, Shipley and Halmos fans will have no trouble staying warm while looking cool for fall.-Anna Sandberg Costello TagliapietraThe Atlman BuildingStraying from their usual uber luxurious drapey fabrications did this novel design duo any favors for Fall '09, but still there was the trademark fabric manipulations that made them the deserved darlings of fashion aware set. The color palette was right in line with every other collection of the season thus far: Black, White, Gray & Cream. Next season promises to be better at this house providing they return to the fabric suppliers who got them to where they are.-pq BCBGMAXAZRIAThe TentConstructivism… The collection centers itself around draped silhouettes & geometric cuts. Every dress was unique with its intricate detailin; pleating, dying, or stitching and paired with futuristic metallic hose. Nothing about this show was ground breaking or overly memorable, but rather marketable & true to the BCBG customer. -Meredith Garcia Rag & BoneCedar Lake Dance SpaceThe scene at Rag & Bone was far more intense than the collection shown as the likes of Anna Wintour, Hamish Bowles, Hilary Alexander, Simon Doonan, et al were packing the front row of the incredible vaulted industrial space turned modern dance hall. As the room filled beyond capacity, the organizers yelled to close the doors due to the sheer mass of humanity exceeding fire code limits. The clothing, while being exceptionally well fit & beautifully tailored was in the end nothing beyond what design duo David Neville & Marcus Wainwright have done since the label’s inception. Semi-edgy, down-town centric, tailored clothing with a serious nod to the military uniform without ever looking costume-like. The women this season finally seemed to have a voice of their own rather than, as in previous seasons, being merely a literal interpretation of the men’s collection, look for look. Colors were Black, Charcoal & White with the occasional flash of red in a piping, a tab, or an underpinning showing. Lengths were varied & layered to create interest & leather was used amply as inserts on jackets, dresses, trousers, coats… you get the point. Also of novel interest was the way every trouser had the knees tied up with fabric strapping to create a not so masked feeling of bondage. What Neville & Wainwright do, they do better than nearly everyone else in the category. But how long will we as a buying public remain interested in the same thing over & over remains to be seen, no matter how well done it is.-pq & Meredith Garcia Charlotte RonsonThe PromenadeCharlotte Ronson is walking a tightrope – on one hand, she has a DJ sister who is “dating” one of the paparazzi mega stars which garners her show/ name /collection (in that order) literally tons of media attention that she would have to work seasons upon seasons to get if she were just another designer working on a collection & on the other hand, she has a collection which would be hard pressed to get recognized on its own merits. Her conundrum is that the show is a media circus not because of her product, but rather because of her guest roster. The collection was a sleepy, 1940’s inspired collection that at times had some charming little tidbits (the elbow cutouts & some of the motorcycle jackets & bustiers over dresses) & at other times looked overworked & tired (the final look of the blazer over the dress that had every bell & whistle from epaulettes to beading to embroidery all on one ill fitting piece). When one considers the customer, a junior customer just this side of contemporary, it makes a bit more sense, but when compared to the collections being shown this week with proven chops in this category it pales in comparison. If Ms. Ronson wants to be taken seriously as a designer, then she needs to stop inviting her family to her shows, as the show is clearly more about spotting Lindsay & Samantha “maybe-having-a-sort-of-fight-kind-of… was that a make-up kiss or a goodbye forever kiss???” than about seeing what the designer Ronson is doing. However, when looking at the collection, devoid of the pre-show frenzy taking place in the DJ booth, then I think it best she not make any cuts from her guest list for the time being.-pq
In their sophomore showing of their namesake collection, recent Parson's grads & one of the '09 Ecco Domani Fashion Fund Winners Carly Cushnie & Michelle Ochs further defined themselves as being hard edged modernists without crossing the line into the cliché of "futuristic". There were definite nods to the Helmut Lang we loved (the one that Mr. Lang himself was still designing), but not literal enough to be confused with paying homage- this collection has its own voice. Their color palette was Black, Silver, White & Copper Metallic with the lone pattern being a white & Silver cloud-like print. Silhouettes were close to the body, asymmetrical & many pieces had single sheer sleeves matched with opaque. The only volume came in coats, the strongest of those being a black one with a wide fur back stripe resembling a Mohawk. This label has a future..
Accessorized by hanging chain belts & my personal fave – Abaeté for Payless Shoes.
Christian CotaThe Metropolitan Pavillion
Fresh from his being chosen as The Fashion Group International’s ’09 Rising Star Award Recipient for women’s wear, Christian Cota showed his Fall ’09 collection in a stark presentation in Chelsea’s Metropolitan Pavilion. The collection of some 20 looks in 3 vignettes on models who were eerily identical made 3 definitive statements. The first vignette of pleated & sequined pieces that made it clear that Mr. Cota is a fan of Prada. In the 2nd vignette, he seemed to hit his personal stride with a collection of beautiful spectrum colored iridescent pieces combined with black sheers to create a sensational mélange of texture & silhouette. The standout here was a basic cap-sleeved shift dress with hand painted detailing resembling a National Geographic image of Mica. In the 3rd Vignette, Cota demonstrated his ability to trick the eye with the use of asymmetry to create balance through imbalance & pane velvets so rich as to appear to be heavy weight Silk Charmeuse. Hopefully, after two incredibly beautiful presentations in as many seasons, Christian Cota can maintain this type of momentum as this is precisely the ilk of efforts that deserve to eventually get rewarded in the end with a following.
-pq
BCBGMAXAZRIAThe TentConstructivism… The collection centers itself around draped silhouettes & geometric cuts. Every dress was unique with its intricate detailin; pleating, dying, or stitching and paired with futuristic metallic hose. Nothing about this show was ground breaking or overly memorable, but rather marketable & true to the BCBG customer. -Meredith Garcia
Rag & BoneCedar Lake Dance SpaceThe scene at Rag & Bone was far more intense than the collection shown as the likes of Anna Wintour, Hamish Bowles, Hilary Alexander, Simon Doonan, et al were packing the front row of the incredible vaulted industrial space turned modern dance hall. As the room filled beyond capacity, the organizers yelled to close the doors due to the sheer mass of humanity exceeding fire code limits. The clothing, while being exceptionally well fit & beautifully tailored was in the end nothing beyond what design duo David Neville & Marcus Wainwright have done since the label’s inception. Semi-edgy, down-town centric, tailored clothing with a serious nod to the military uniform without ever looking costume-like. The women this season finally seemed to have a voice of their own rather than, as in previous seasons, being merely a literal interpretation of the men’s collection, look for look. Colors were Black, Charcoal & White with the occasional flash of red in a piping, a tab, or an underpinning showing. Lengths were varied & layered to create interest & leather was used amply as inserts on jackets, dresses, trousers, coats… you get the point. Also of novel interest was the way every trouser had the knees tied up with fabric strapping to create a not so masked feeling of bondage. What Neville & Wainwright do, they do better than nearly everyone else in the category. But how long will we as a buying public remain interested in the same thing over & over remains to be seen, no matter how well done it is.
-pq & Meredith Garcia
Charlotte RonsonThe Promenade
Charlotte Ronson is walking a tightrope – on one hand, she has a DJ sister who is “dating” one of the paparazzi mega stars which garners her show/ name /collection (in that order) literally tons of media attention that she would have to work seasons upon seasons to get if she were just another designer working on a collection & on the other hand, she has a collection which would be hard pressed to get recognized on its own merits. Her conundrum is that the show is a media circus not because of her product, but rather because of her guest roster. The collection was a sleepy, 1940’s inspired collection that at times had some charming little tidbits (the elbow cutouts & some of the motorcycle jackets & bustiers over dresses) & at other times looked overworked & tired (the final look of the blazer over the dress that had every bell & whistle from epaulettes to beading to embroidery all on one ill fitting piece). When one considers the customer, a junior customer just this side of contemporary, it makes a bit more sense, but when compared to the collections being shown this week with proven chops in this category it pales in comparison. If Ms. Ronson wants to be taken seriously as a designer, then she needs to stop inviting her family to her shows, as the show is clearly more about spotting Lindsay & Samantha “maybe-having-a-sort-of-fight-kind-of… was that a make-up kiss or a goodbye forever kiss???” than about seeing what the designer Ronson is doing. However, when looking at the collection, devoid of the pre-show frenzy taking place in the DJ booth, then I think it best she not make any cuts from her guest list for the time being.