Saturday, February 14, 2009ADAMThe Promenade Color, color & more color- Thank goodness!ADAM by Adam Lippes really provided a well needed breathe of fresh air to this season’s usuals of black & grays. Inspired by cherry blossoms, the young contemporary line hit a high note with uplifting winter colors of fuschia, goldern rod, & Juniper. The stand out was a milk colored dress with wool felt & metal feather embroidery down the sides- not exactly a retailers best seller but looked like a wonderful addition to the my closet. Accessorized minimally with beet colored tights & none other than Louboutin shoes. -Meredith GarciaAndy & DebbThe Salon The masters of a theme, Andy Kim & Debbie Yoon, explored the butterfly (last season was cupcakes) from every angle possible for Fall ‘09 & the results were delightful. The color palette began the same as every other collection this season- Black, White & Cream, but soon blossomed into every color on a butterfly’s wings — Orange, Green, Blue & Purple as well as rich Bronzes & Browns. The motif was extremely literal at times as in the case of a large butterfly in Cream Melton Wool being draped over one shoulder as an asymmetrical cape (my #1 pick of the show) & at other times delightfully subtle as in a collar of a Black blouse that ended in the back with a shape of a Monarch Butterfly wing tip appearing to “drip” down the wearer’s back (one can’t help but be reminded of a young Franco Moschino when witnessing this type of whimsical novelty so deftly applied). My favorite show of fashion week thus far & my top 5 from last season, Andy & Debb’s one drawback is the way they choose to fill their audiences. It is frustrating as a fashion professional, to have to contend with 300+ people crowding into the seats & jockeying to take photos of one another exclaiming how fabulous it is to be “in the tents, finally”. This seating strategy will eventually cost them earning their serious fashion wings (pun intended).-pq LacosteThe TentPure Color, Relaxed EleganceThe 2009 Fall/Winter Collection by the French sportswear line was all about being comfortable and looking super chic while doing so. The show represented two types of women. It was a mixture between Annie Hall’s masculine style with Princess Leila’s futuristic look. The colors that made a splash on the runway were blues, mustard yellow, beige, grays and greens. The collection included large wool overcoats, capes, hooded sweaters, slouchy track pants, same colored suits from the scarves down to the stack-heeled knee-length suede and jersey boots. -Aura BretonPoleciGansevoort StreetPoleci hosted their Fall 2009 presentation at their Gansevoort Street location. Poleci showed a collection that was incredibly feminine and sophisticated. Architecturally structured garments were adorned in neutral tones that were highlighted by metallics and glimmery sequins. The cohesiveness of the collection could be seen in the texture range from garment to garment. Guests sipped on champagne and fine chocolates that appropriately complimented the refined presentation. Poleci is interested in drama and structure as factors in their upscale contemporary ready to wear.-Kai BaukolKaren WalkerThe Altman BuildingKaren Walker showed less prints than one would have expected and instead produced a more cohesive almost masculine ready to wear line that was very wearable. The models sported grey flannel jackets and cigarette pants and puffed sleeved shirts & dresses that were dually toned with browns and grays. The collection was very tailored and heavily supported by knits. Walker accessorized her neutrally toned clothing with pops of candy red patent heals and warm toned gloves. As in typical Karen Walker fashion, eyewear was a key feature throughout the presentation.-Kai BaukolBucklerGrand StreetBuckler gave their presentation at the Grand Street Store location in Soho. Guests sipped on white wine and Luccid (Absinthe) martinis. The collection was inspired by Oscar Wilde's "Dorian Gray", a book that "exposes the duality between substance and surface, good and evil, ethics and aesthetics, and human decay". There was a strong vintage aesthetic throughout the line as seen in the flannel shirts, cable knit sweater and authentic dated leather buttons circa 1940. The garments were mostly of a dark pallet; blacks, deep blues and reds were the central focus.-Kai BaukolThreeASFOURGreen Naftali Gallery The clothing was a stunning display of sharp angular lines & draped panels left to cascade off the body to create a crystallized cocoon effect. Most of the ensembles were encrusted with giant crystals that some in the audience were commenting were Swarovski. Regardless, they were beautiful. There were crystal coated panels shielding parts of the body in armor-like fashion (a major emerging trend across most of the collections this season). Also intriguing was the head gear. Medieval looking sheer head drapes that were also crystal encrusted & tied under the necks like a nun’s habit in the convent of Swarovski.-pqLoden DagerThe General Society of Mechanics & TradesmanThe tone for the Loden Dager Autumn/Winter 2009 collection was set as soon as show goers entered the chosen venue: The General Society of Mechanics and Tradesmen. This intimate, old-fashioned library provided the perfect backdrop for the distinctly collegiate looks that the Loden Dager man or woman will be wearing come Fall, and one could easily envision these looks on the co-eds roaming the campus of an Ivy League college. Soft cashmere, cotton, and plenty of wool made for sturdy and classic sweaters, jackets, trousers, and overcoats. Nothing shown could be called trendy or innovative, but there is something to be said for beautifully constructed, well-tailored clothing-after all, classics never go out style.-Anna SandbergVerrier The SalonRuffles and frills were in the air at this Valentine’s Day Verrier Fall/Winter collection; ruffled waists, blouses and hems in taffeta, organza and chiffon. The clever contrast amid the 32 looks was inspired by a 1964 film The Umbrellas of Cherbourg; particularly the opening scene with circular tops of umbrellas in pinks, blues, yellows and reds. High-waisted pants accompanied sexy, sheer and short silhouettes; fox fur collars, studded trench coats and Swarovski crystal detail gave a modern twist to retro looks. Viva Verrier!! -Elizabeth Lechleiter Monarchy: Smoke & MirrorsThe PromenadeMonarchy’s designer Eric Kim drifted away from a punk rock theme and opted for a more architectural approach. The menswear and womenswear collections were mysteriously sexy yet maintained their celeb rocker focus with cleaner lines, fitted silhouettes and a flare for plaid. Blazers and riding boots were mixed with jeans and T-s, a simple look reincarnated with an edgy vibe. Grand hats in plaid and shearling, sleek and cinched outerwear with complimentary scarves and leggings combined with wrapped tops were some of my favorites. Retailers and buyers will be pleased with this collection for 2009. Guaranteed to please men and women alike!-Elizabeth Lechleiter SpurrMilk Studios Using the film 2001: A Space Odyssey as inspiration, the Spurr Fall 2009 collection aimed to take "a modern slant on the theme of exploration". Neutral black, white and gray were the basis of the color palette, with a few pops of amber and raspberry. The line offered up a nice assortment of well fit clothing in high quality fabrics, ranging from sporty casual to business attire. Personal favorites included a cotton moto jacket worn with a wool/cashmere peacoat and slim jeans, and a rasberry blazer worn with a cashmere sweater, black corduroys, and a striped silk/cashmere scarf.-Anna Sandberg Elise ØverlandWest ChelseaNorwegian Elise Øverland likes her music ear exploding loud. It was fitting that the sexy attire she stitched up for her RTW had the same edgy vibe, packed with separates that “SHIMMER(ed).” A former leatherwear tailor for stylish rockers like Aerosmith’s Steve Tyler, Øverland really shook it up textile wise- in this late night Valentine’s Day outing. Deep dark tones and dabs of lighter shades like a Mardi Gras bead purple…. and the mash up of the hard/soft…matte/shiny surfaces of fabrics in the presentation---hit all the right notes without a dose of tinnitus. Hip chicks will opt for the leather pieces that in this outing had snug leggings (in dark grey), dresses (in a white stretch version that hugged the body just so)…and jackets (like a very wearable peaked shoulder purple blazer, and an algae green biker). Pant silhouettes draped well, indications of Øverland’s tailoring skills---- a trend that seems to spill over from Spring 2009.-Judith Ecochard
Saturday, February 14, 2009
ADAMThe Promenade
Color, color & more color- Thank goodness!ADAM by Adam Lippes really provided a well needed breathe of fresh air to this season’s usuals of black & grays. Inspired by cherry blossoms, the young contemporary line hit a high note with uplifting winter colors of fuschia, goldern rod, & Juniper. The stand out was a milk colored dress with wool felt & metal feather embroidery down the sides- not exactly a retailers best seller but looked like a wonderful addition to the my closet. Accessorized minimally with beet colored tights & none other than Louboutin shoes.
-Meredith Garcia
Andy & DebbThe Salon
The masters of a theme, Andy Kim & Debbie Yoon, explored the butterfly (last season was cupcakes) from every angle possible for Fall ‘09 & the results were delightful. The color palette began the same as every other collection this season- Black, White & Cream, but soon blossomed into every color on a butterfly’s wings — Orange, Green, Blue & Purple as well as rich Bronzes & Browns. The motif was extremely literal at times as in the case of a large butterfly in Cream Melton Wool being draped over one shoulder as an asymmetrical cape (my #1 pick of the show) & at other times delightfully subtle as in a collar of a Black blouse that ended in the back with a shape of a Monarch Butterfly wing tip appearing to “drip” down the wearer’s back (one can’t help but be reminded of a young Franco Moschino when witnessing this type of whimsical novelty so deftly applied). My favorite show of fashion week thus far & my top 5 from last season, Andy & Debb’s one drawback is the way they choose to fill their audiences. It is frustrating as a fashion professional, to have to contend with 300+ people crowding into the seats & jockeying to take photos of one another exclaiming how fabulous it is to be “in the tents, finally”. This seating strategy will eventually cost them earning their serious fashion wings (pun intended).
-pq
LacosteThe Tent
Pure Color, Relaxed EleganceThe 2009 Fall/Winter Collection by the French sportswear line was all about being comfortable and looking super chic while doing so. The show represented two types of women. It was a mixture between Annie Hall’s masculine style with Princess Leila’s futuristic look. The colors that made a splash on the runway were blues, mustard yellow, beige, grays and greens. The collection included large wool overcoats, capes, hooded sweaters, slouchy track pants, same colored suits from the scarves down to the stack-heeled knee-length suede and jersey boots.
-Aura Breton
PoleciGansevoort Street
Poleci hosted their Fall 2009 presentation at their Gansevoort Street location. Poleci showed a collection that was incredibly feminine and sophisticated. Architecturally structured garments were adorned in neutral tones that were highlighted by metallics and glimmery sequins. The cohesiveness of the collection could be seen in the texture range from garment to garment. Guests sipped on champagne and fine chocolates that appropriately complimented the refined presentation. Poleci is interested in drama and structure as factors in their upscale contemporary ready to wear.
-Kai Baukol
Karen WalkerThe Altman Building
Karen Walker showed less prints than one would have expected and instead produced a more cohesive almost masculine ready to wear line that was very wearable. The models sported grey flannel jackets and cigarette pants and puffed sleeved shirts & dresses that were dually toned with browns and grays. The collection was very tailored and heavily supported by knits. Walker accessorized her neutrally toned clothing with pops of candy red patent heals and warm toned gloves. As in typical Karen Walker fashion, eyewear was a key feature throughout the presentation.
BucklerGrand Street
Buckler gave their presentation at the Grand Street Store location in Soho. Guests sipped on white wine and Luccid (Absinthe) martinis. The collection was inspired by Oscar Wilde's "Dorian Gray", a book that "exposes the duality between substance and surface, good and evil, ethics and aesthetics, and human decay". There was a strong vintage aesthetic throughout the line as seen in the flannel shirts, cable knit sweater and authentic dated leather buttons circa 1940. The garments were mostly of a dark pallet; blacks, deep blues and reds were the central focus.
ThreeASFOURGreen Naftali Gallery
The clothing was a stunning display of sharp angular lines & draped panels left to cascade off the body to create a crystallized cocoon effect. Most of the ensembles were encrusted with giant crystals that some in the audience were commenting were Swarovski. Regardless, they were beautiful. There were crystal coated panels shielding parts of the body in armor-like fashion (a major emerging trend across most of the collections this season). Also intriguing was the head gear. Medieval looking sheer head drapes that were also crystal encrusted & tied under the necks like a nun’s habit in the convent of Swarovski.
Loden DagerThe General Society of Mechanics & Tradesman
The tone for the Loden Dager Autumn/Winter 2009 collection was set as soon as show goers entered the chosen venue: The General Society of Mechanics and Tradesmen. This intimate, old-fashioned library provided the perfect backdrop for the distinctly collegiate looks that the Loden Dager man or woman will be wearing come Fall, and one could easily envision these looks on the co-eds roaming the campus of an Ivy League college. Soft cashmere, cotton, and plenty of wool made for sturdy and classic sweaters, jackets, trousers, and overcoats. Nothing shown could be called trendy or innovative, but there is something to be said for beautifully constructed, well-tailored clothing-after all, classics never go out style.
-Anna Sandberg
Verrier The Salon
Ruffles and frills were in the air at this Valentine’s Day Verrier Fall/Winter collection; ruffled waists, blouses and hems in taffeta, organza and chiffon. The clever contrast amid the 32 looks was inspired by a 1964 film The Umbrellas of Cherbourg; particularly the opening scene with circular tops of umbrellas in pinks, blues, yellows and reds. High-waisted pants accompanied sexy, sheer and short silhouettes; fox fur collars, studded trench coats and Swarovski crystal detail gave a modern twist to retro looks. Viva Verrier!!
-Elizabeth Lechleiter
Monarchy: Smoke & MirrorsThe PromenadeMonarchy’s designer Eric Kim drifted away from a punk rock theme and opted for a more architectural approach. The menswear and womenswear collections were mysteriously sexy yet maintained their celeb rocker focus with cleaner lines, fitted silhouettes and a flare for plaid. Blazers and riding boots were mixed with jeans and T-s, a simple look reincarnated with an edgy vibe. Grand hats in plaid and shearling, sleek and cinched outerwear with complimentary scarves and leggings combined with wrapped tops were some of my favorites. Retailers and buyers will be pleased with this collection for 2009. Guaranteed to please men and women alike!
SpurrMilk Studios
Using the film 2001: A Space Odyssey as inspiration, the Spurr Fall 2009 collection aimed to take "a modern slant on the theme of exploration". Neutral black, white and gray were the basis of the color palette, with a few pops of amber and raspberry. The line offered up a nice assortment of well fit clothing in high quality fabrics, ranging from sporty casual to business attire. Personal favorites included a cotton moto jacket worn with a wool/cashmere peacoat and slim jeans, and a rasberry blazer worn with a cashmere sweater, black corduroys, and a striped silk/cashmere scarf.
Elise ØverlandWest Chelsea
Norwegian Elise Øverland likes her music ear exploding loud. It was fitting that the sexy attire she stitched up for her RTW had the same edgy vibe, packed with separates that “SHIMMER(ed).” A former leatherwear tailor for stylish rockers like Aerosmith’s Steve Tyler, Øverland really shook it up textile wise- in this late night Valentine’s Day outing. Deep dark tones and dabs of lighter shades like a Mardi Gras bead purple…. and the mash up of the hard/soft…matte/shiny surfaces of fabrics in the presentation---hit all the right notes without a dose of tinnitus. Hip chicks will opt for the leather pieces that in this outing had snug leggings (in dark grey), dresses (in a white stretch version that hugged the body just so)…and jackets (like a very wearable peaked shoulder purple blazer, and an algae green biker). Pant silhouettes draped well, indications of Øverland’s tailoring skills---- a trend that seems to spill over from Spring 2009.
-Judith Ecochard