Sunday, February 15, 2009 Lela RoseThe SalonFrom casual day to elegant evening- Lela Rose always provides a solid show. She combined hard and soft looks in a sea of grays, royal blues & goldens and ended the show with what she does best- gowns. Playing with different lengths, one shoulder looks, & deep v’s the silhouette remained that of a Grecian princess- flowy and cinched in around the waist. -Meredith Garcia Band of OutsidersLower BroadwayI walked into the installation wondering what it is I could expect at noon on a Sunday just south of China Town. What I found was exactly what creative director/ designer Scott Sternberg is known for… theatrics and intricate sets. The huge loft space gave way to a who’s who of fashion heavy hitters moving from set to set walking into a new “scene”. It was after my third station that I had to remind myself that I was there for the clothing. The men’s & women’s fall collection was preppy and wearable. Women’s skirts were pleated while the men sported blazers. The marriage of the two lines was cohesive, but the Sternberg’s Boy (women’s) collection doesn’t come close to the strength in construction & originality to that of the original Band (men’s) collection. This was apparent by such eye-catching outfits as a grey wool patchwork suit. Women were accessorized with Manolo Blahnik for Band of Outsiders while the men kicked it with Band of Outsiders for Sperry Top-Siders. A complete look from head to toe! -Meredith Garcia Matthew AmesFashionhausEcco Domani winner Matthew Ames’s ceremonial like runway show was all the rage for half the fashion crowd sitting in the audience, while the other half left bewildered by what it was they had just seen. The collection of varied creams (and one random pop of red) seemed to be an abundance of ultrasuede wrapped around the body and held together with tucking and draping. Very few looks seemed to have had any sewing work what so ever. Nonetheless, I am torn about what side of the fence I am leaning toward as I understand the appeal, but looking forward to see this collection again- -Meredith Garcia Karen Sabag Hosfelt GalleryKaren Sabag has a decision to make: what does she want to design... Bridal, Eveningwear or Sportswear? She would be equally adept at any, but her presentation left the viewer confused as to which they were looking. All three were beautiful, but shown together, they were conflicting. I feel for her sales staff. The collection was White, Cream & Black & included only a single print- a Black & White snake skin print. The balance of the patterns were achieved through beading & embroidery that was at times artfully done to NEAR couture proportions. The designer's own tagline of "Designer Couture" was not met however; when we were forced to view the collection while the make-up was still being applied or using runs of show crookedly folded & wrinkled. Greatness is in the details & if one is going to be using such lofty comparisons in one's corporate moniker, then expect to be judged accordingly. Nice clothes yes. Couture... I know not.
From casual day to elegant evening- Lela Rose always provides a solid show. She combined hard and soft looks in a sea of grays, royal blues & goldens and ended the show with what she does best- gowns. Playing with different lengths, one shoulder looks, & deep v’s the silhouette remained that of a Grecian princess- flowy and cinched in around the waist.
I walked into the installation wondering what it is I could expect at noon on a Sunday just south of China Town. What I found was exactly what creative director/ designer Scott Sternberg is known for… theatrics and intricate sets. The huge loft space gave way to a who’s who of fashion heavy hitters moving from set to set walking into a new “scene”. It was after my third station that I had to remind myself that I was there for the clothing. The men’s & women’s fall collection was preppy and wearable. Women’s skirts were pleated while the men sported blazers. The marriage of the two lines was cohesive, but the Sternberg’s Boy (women’s) collection doesn’t come close to the strength in construction & originality to that of the original Band (men’s) collection. This was apparent by such eye-catching outfits as a grey wool patchwork suit.
-Meredith Garcia
Ecco Domani winner Matthew Ames’s ceremonial like runway show was all the rage for half the fashion crowd sitting in the audience, while the other half left bewildered by what it was they had just seen. The collection of varied creams (and one random pop of red) seemed to be an abundance of ultrasuede wrapped around the body and held together with tucking and draping. Very few looks seemed to have had any sewing work what so ever. Nonetheless, I am torn about what side of the fence I am leaning toward as I understand the appeal, but looking forward to see this collection again-
-pq Carlos CamposThe Altman BuildingIf you were a student at St. Campos Catholic School, your view on school uniforms would be much different from the students at St. Catherine's down the street. And thus Carlos Campos presented his ode to sexy uniforms and jumpsuits. The collection was dark, as was the makeup of the models who were styled with smoked eyes and slicked back hair. Campos chose to use a large amount of black, eggplant and deep navy as the central colors in the collection. Campos strategically attached his signature crucifix in white to stand out against the dark garments. Some highlights of the show were Campos' lacy stockings that added intrigue to the mini-jumpers. Boarding school meets 80's rocker in Campos' Fall/Winter 2009 collection.-Kai Baukol Miss SixtyThe TentYoung, exuberant, colorful, sexy, loud, rock n' roll... All fitting words for the collection sent down the runway at the Fall '09 Miss Sixty show. The setting was grand with a 20 foot wide runway all hand painted in black on white canvas. The backdrop was of the same over scaled proportions with the company logo painted in positive/negative 10' letters. The clothes: they were close to the body, away from the body & in between. They fully embodied the spirit of their demographic, one of youthful experimentation in searching out a look to call one's own. Though I doubt the drop crotch jeans offered in regular jeans & as a jumpsuit have any serious fashion relevance, there were some real standouts, especially an empire waist multitiered mini-dress, the printed pieces covered in tabloid covers & all the oversized bags with various incarnations of the Miss Sixty logo which resembled seriously supped up versions of the artist portfolio cases seen on the streets near art & fashion schools.-pq e.y. wadaThe SalonAnticipation was in the air for the runway debut of e.y. wada; the designers, after all, hailed from such pedigree as Marc Jacobs & Donna Karan. The anticipation, while not being for naught, was far from fully met either. They were obsessed with bows. Not the big runway-fabulous ones, but rather the overly subtle ones that were formed by pinching the top bands of patch pockets. Bows of this magnitude belong at Ann Taylor, not in Bryant Park. While the collection was nothing offensive, it just left me underwhelmed. There were the season's requisite colors of Black & Cream as well as a dash of Green & Purple. The three best pieces shown were a dress, blouse & skirt in an op-art Black & White pattern that created a faceted jewel effect. The designers obviously agreed, as the used this faceted pattern throughout the collection as embossed detailing on silk. The collection wasn't a failure but it must up the ante next season to prove its relevance.-Scott French Diane Von FurstenbergThe TentNot her usual POP of color- this season DVF’s “nomad” collection led us to a schmorgesborg of details, fabrics, & patterns. Von Furstenberg gave layering a new meaning with combinations of cocoon coats, cardigans, minis, leggings, (you want it? It was there)… and accessorizing with what could only be called pompom hats. Von Furstenberg ended the collection with a lovely metallic number that I am sure will be donning the red carpet soon enough. -Meredith GarciaTwinkle by WenlanClassic Car ClubTwinkle by Wenlan gave a full runway presentation at a car showroom located downtown on Hudson Street. Though there was no apparent reason for the choice of this particular venue (with its parked luxury cars scattered throughout the space), it was an interesting choice that deserves recognition. Wenlan Chia produced a fall line that is a good representation of the aesthetic for which she is known- heavy knit sweaters and sweet little dresses. Chia compared the clothing to a modern day Audrey Hepburn, but little affiliation was noticeable from the Arts and Crafts looking collection compared to the Givenchy adorned icon of yesteryear.-Kai Baukol UnconditionalGlass HouseOn a bright Sunday morning Philip Stephens presented his Unconditional Fall/Winter 2009 collection. The presentation was set at a Chelsea loft space high in the clouds with wall to wall windows. The models were wearing ultra modern and youthful clothing. Skinny silhouettes with simple and impactful architectural detailing- asymmetrical collars and hoods were noticeable throughout the separate looks. The color palette, like the clothing, was modern: black, white, gray with a small amount of color to accent the design. Shoes were an essential element for the presentation- the male models tucked there skinny jeans into rugged black Aldo boots, the women produced a similar line with black ankle stiletto's. Stephens produced a youthful and modern collection that with its sharp lines and minimalist coloring provided an image that was undeniably bold.-Kai Baukol Nicholas K / Sergio Davila / Mara Hoffman The Promenade In an idea that I’m surprised hasn’t been employed by others in these times, Nicolas K, Sergio Davila & Mara Hoffman, who all share a single publicist staged a group show in Bryant Park that involved, in essence, seeing three distinct shows with a single sitting. Further savings were garnered when a single invitation was mailed as well, thereby requiring a single RSVP – a 3 for 1… if you will. What was a novel idea, & a welcome one, went off basically without a hitch & was by and large successful, save for the fact that the 3 collections didn’t limit their content & the show seemed to drag on nearly as long as a cover story in “The New Yorker” (or according to my editor… some of my stories!) First up was Nicholas K who showed a collection of men’s & women’s looks that was way, way, way too long (some 50 looks in total). The colors were Grays & Tans with a lone look of Royal Blue & another of a Celadon Green that were sort of just inserted with no apparent rhyme or reason. The silhouettes were sufficiently fresh & casual with asymmetrical detailing in the way of lopsided closures & zippers set askew. The odd feature of this collection was the way the male models followed the girls out so closely, only a few steps behind them at times. The effect wasn’t one of hipness & vibe, but rather weird & stalker-like. Next on the roster was Sergio Davila who sent his men’s & women’s collections down the runway awash in Grays, Blacks & Tans. A Wedgewood blue was the lone color. His silhouettes were trousers with & without pleats, shirts & deep v-neck sweaters for men & dresses & skirts in a variety of lengths for women. The collection was a bit here & there in both color & silhouette & overall was anemic on the outerwear front.Last up was runway veteran Mara Hoffman. Her experience served her well. Ms. Hoffman’s signature organic patterns & prints went someone optic for the season – make that op-art to be exact. There were caftans & multi-tiered dresses with layers of light ruffles & even my personal favorite, as giant peace sign poncho in gray & white. While her collection is more suited for the sun filled days of summer, her effort for Fall ‘09 showed that she has merit come the cooler climes as well. In this fashion triple header, Ms. Hoffman was indeed the headliner & asserted her rightful place beautifully.-pq Akiko OgawaThe SalonAkiko Ogawa obviously had an obsession of Karl Lagerfeld proportions with the collar this season as most of the top pieces of her Fall ’09 collection featured collar details of every which imaginable way possible, but always exaggerated in size. Also a favorite of the season was the technique of dip dying, a process that was obviously important to her in this collection as she chose to have her invitations printed with an ombre effect. On the clothes, the effect created gradients from Bluish White to Inky Navy, with a brief pause in the middle of a Regal Royal tone. There were also Camels & Blacks in the collection, but the most memorable pieces stuck to the Black/Navy end of the color range. Hem lines were asymmetrical & fabrics were textured. The overall effect was aesthetically pleasing & created a needed injection of relief from the monochromatic black shows that had been the norm up until this point. That was to change as fashion week progressed, but Ms. Ogawa’s collection still stands out as being the beginning of something more rather than an extension of something less.-pqSusan CiancioloLittle W 12thTrees At Night, the event at which Susan Cianciolo debuted her Fall 2009 line, was not your average fashion week party. Held at the Tela Design Studio in the middle of the Meatpacking district, there were people standing around sipping champagne and ignoring the hors d'ourves, but the similarities ended there. Cut to the front of the room, where a pianist played classical music as a dozen or so models wandered around on a handmade quilt in similarly patchwork-y garments. The natural looking make-up and twisted, knotted up hair complete the hippie/ bohemian look of the clothing, which is pieced together using recycled fabrics. Concentrating her efforts on producing environmentally friendly garments, Cianciolo's hand crafted aesthetic is definitely not going to appeal to fashionistas seeking innovative or modern looks, but for those who want a hand-made feel it doesn't get any more authentic.-Anna Sandberg Hervé Léger by Max AzriaThe Promenade An Hervé Léger Collection could not be complete without the signature bandage dress, but this collection had the whole First Aid Kit and more!! Guests were at the edge of their seats anticipating the following astonishing dress or the following model to trip down the slippery runway in their strappy platform heels. The collection took some of its inspiration from an urban tribe with its earth tone colors, snakeskin spread throughout garments and accessories like on the strappy sandals and clutches. There were also pieces with remarkable woven and patchwork techniques made with leather and other fabrics. Max Azria revamped the bandage mini dress with different textures and techniques such as one of my favorite pieces which was the body of the bandage but it was completely beaded in two tones of gray, it had a V neckline and padded shoulders. Something tells me padded shoulders will be very hot next fall.-Aura Breton ThuyThe SalonSunday afternoon The Salon was full of excited chatter as the audience waited to see what Thuy was showing for Fall 2009, and there is a good chance that whatever they were looking for, they got it. Within the 35 looks sent down the runway, fabrics and colors were over the board (from a prim white evening coat with floral appliqués to a cocktail dress in silver lame snakeskin), making the overall direction somewhat difficult to determine. In spite of this, there were some notable pieces in the collection, particularly in the coats- a cobalt blue funnel neck looked fresh in both a long and a cropped length, a charcoal kimono sleeved coat was sophisticated and modern, and a black jacket with lovely cowl sleeves will definitely make it onto my wish list-Anna Sandberg
Carlos CamposThe Altman BuildingIf you were a student at St. Campos Catholic School, your view on school uniforms would be much different from the students at St. Catherine's down the street. And thus Carlos Campos presented his ode to sexy uniforms and jumpsuits. The collection was dark, as was the makeup of the models who were styled with smoked eyes and slicked back hair. Campos chose to use a large amount of black, eggplant and deep navy as the central colors in the collection. Campos strategically attached his signature crucifix in white to stand out against the dark garments. Some highlights of the show were Campos' lacy stockings that added intrigue to the mini-jumpers. Boarding school meets 80's rocker in Campos' Fall/Winter 2009 collection.-Kai Baukol Miss SixtyThe TentYoung, exuberant, colorful, sexy, loud, rock n' roll... All fitting words for the collection sent down the runway at the Fall '09 Miss Sixty show. The setting was grand with a 20 foot wide runway all hand painted in black on white canvas. The backdrop was of the same over scaled proportions with the company logo painted in positive/negative 10' letters. The clothes: they were close to the body, away from the body & in between. They fully embodied the spirit of their demographic, one of youthful experimentation in searching out a look to call one's own. Though I doubt the drop crotch jeans offered in regular jeans & as a jumpsuit have any serious fashion relevance, there were some real standouts, especially an empire waist multitiered mini-dress, the printed pieces covered in tabloid covers & all the oversized bags with various incarnations of the Miss Sixty logo which resembled seriously supped up versions of the artist portfolio cases seen on the streets near art & fashion schools.-pq e.y. wadaThe SalonAnticipation was in the air for the runway debut of e.y. wada; the designers, after all, hailed from such pedigree as Marc Jacobs & Donna Karan. The anticipation, while not being for naught, was far from fully met either. They were obsessed with bows. Not the big runway-fabulous ones, but rather the overly subtle ones that were formed by pinching the top bands of patch pockets. Bows of this magnitude belong at Ann Taylor, not in Bryant Park. While the collection was nothing offensive, it just left me underwhelmed. There were the season's requisite colors of Black & Cream as well as a dash of Green & Purple. The three best pieces shown were a dress, blouse & skirt in an op-art Black & White pattern that created a faceted jewel effect. The designers obviously agreed, as the used this faceted pattern throughout the collection as embossed detailing on silk. The collection wasn't a failure but it must up the ante next season to prove its relevance.-Scott French
Diane Von FurstenbergThe Tent
Not her usual POP of color- this season DVF’s “nomad” collection led us to a schmorgesborg of details, fabrics, & patterns. Von Furstenberg gave layering a new meaning with combinations of cocoon coats, cardigans, minis, leggings, (you want it? It was there)… and accessorizing with what could only be called pompom hats. Von Furstenberg ended the collection with a lovely metallic number that I am sure will be donning the red carpet soon enough.
Twinkle by WenlanClassic Car ClubTwinkle by Wenlan gave a full runway presentation at a car showroom located downtown on Hudson Street. Though there was no apparent reason for the choice of this particular venue (with its parked luxury cars scattered throughout the space), it was an interesting choice that deserves recognition. Wenlan Chia produced a fall line that is a good representation of the aesthetic for which she is known- heavy knit sweaters and sweet little dresses. Chia compared the clothing to a modern day Audrey Hepburn, but little affiliation was noticeable from the Arts and Crafts looking collection compared to the Givenchy adorned icon of yesteryear.-Kai Baukol UnconditionalGlass HouseOn a bright Sunday morning Philip Stephens presented his Unconditional Fall/Winter 2009 collection. The presentation was set at a Chelsea loft space high in the clouds with wall to wall windows. The models were wearing ultra modern and youthful clothing. Skinny silhouettes with simple and impactful architectural detailing- asymmetrical collars and hoods were noticeable throughout the separate looks. The color palette, like the clothing, was modern: black, white, gray with a small amount of color to accent the design. Shoes were an essential element for the presentation- the male models tucked there skinny jeans into rugged black Aldo boots, the women produced a similar line with black ankle stiletto's. Stephens produced a youthful and modern collection that with its sharp lines and minimalist coloring provided an image that was undeniably bold.-Kai Baukol
Nicholas K / Sergio Davila / Mara Hoffman The Promenade
In an idea that I’m surprised hasn’t been employed by others in these times, Nicolas K, Sergio Davila & Mara Hoffman, who all share a single publicist staged a group show in Bryant Park that involved, in essence, seeing three distinct shows with a single sitting. Further savings were garnered when a single invitation was mailed as well, thereby requiring a single RSVP – a 3 for 1… if you will. What was a novel idea, & a welcome one, went off basically without a hitch & was by and large successful, save for the fact that the 3 collections didn’t limit their content & the show seemed to drag on nearly as long as a cover story in “The New Yorker” (or according to my editor… some of my stories!)
First up was Nicholas K who showed a collection of men’s & women’s looks that was way, way, way too long (some 50 looks in total). The colors were Grays & Tans with a lone look of Royal Blue & another of a Celadon Green that were sort of just inserted with no apparent rhyme or reason. The silhouettes were sufficiently fresh & casual with asymmetrical detailing in the way of lopsided closures & zippers set askew. The odd feature of this collection was the way the male models followed the girls out so closely, only a few steps behind them at times. The effect wasn’t one of hipness & vibe, but rather weird & stalker-like.
Next on the roster was Sergio Davila who sent his men’s & women’s collections down the runway awash in Grays, Blacks & Tans. A Wedgewood blue was the lone color. His silhouettes were trousers with & without pleats, shirts & deep v-neck sweaters for men & dresses & skirts in a variety of lengths for women. The collection was a bit here & there in both color & silhouette & overall was anemic on the outerwear front.
Last up was runway veteran Mara Hoffman. Her experience served her well. Ms. Hoffman’s signature organic patterns & prints went someone optic for the season – make that op-art to be exact. There were caftans & multi-tiered dresses with layers of light ruffles & even my personal favorite, as giant peace sign poncho in gray & white. While her collection is more suited for the sun filled days of summer, her effort for Fall ‘09 showed that she has merit come the cooler climes as well. In this fashion triple header, Ms. Hoffman was indeed the headliner & asserted her rightful place beautifully.
-pq
Akiko OgawaThe Salon
Akiko Ogawa obviously had an obsession of Karl Lagerfeld proportions with the collar this season as most of the top pieces of her Fall ’09 collection featured collar details of every which imaginable way possible, but always exaggerated in size. Also a favorite of the season was the technique of dip dying, a process that was obviously important to her in this collection as she chose to have her invitations printed with an ombre effect. On the clothes, the effect created gradients from Bluish White to Inky Navy, with a brief pause in the middle of a Regal Royal tone. There were also Camels & Blacks in the collection, but the most memorable pieces stuck to the Black/Navy end of the color range. Hem lines were asymmetrical & fabrics were textured. The overall effect was aesthetically pleasing & created a needed injection of relief from the monochromatic black shows that had been the norm up until this point. That was to change as fashion week progressed, but Ms. Ogawa’s collection still stands out as being the beginning of something more rather than an extension of something less.
Susan CiancioloLittle W 12thTrees At Night, the event at which Susan Cianciolo debuted her Fall 2009 line, was not your average fashion week party. Held at the Tela Design Studio in the middle of the Meatpacking district, there were people standing around sipping champagne and ignoring the hors d'ourves, but the similarities ended there. Cut to the front of the room, where a pianist played classical music as a dozen or so models wandered around on a handmade quilt in similarly patchwork-y garments. The natural looking make-up and twisted, knotted up hair complete the hippie/ bohemian look of the clothing, which is pieced together using recycled fabrics. Concentrating her efforts on producing environmentally friendly garments, Cianciolo's hand crafted aesthetic is definitely not going to appeal to fashionistas seeking innovative or modern looks, but for those who want a hand-made feel it doesn't get any more authentic.-Anna Sandberg Hervé Léger by Max AzriaThe Promenade An Hervé Léger Collection could not be complete without the signature bandage dress, but this collection had the whole First Aid Kit and more!! Guests were at the edge of their seats anticipating the following astonishing dress or the following model to trip down the slippery runway in their strappy platform heels. The collection took some of its inspiration from an urban tribe with its earth tone colors, snakeskin spread throughout garments and accessories like on the strappy sandals and clutches. There were also pieces with remarkable woven and patchwork techniques made with leather and other fabrics. Max Azria revamped the bandage mini dress with different textures and techniques such as one of my favorite pieces which was the body of the bandage but it was completely beaded in two tones of gray, it had a V neckline and padded shoulders. Something tells me padded shoulders will be very hot next fall.-Aura Breton ThuyThe SalonSunday afternoon The Salon was full of excited chatter as the audience waited to see what Thuy was showing for Fall 2009, and there is a good chance that whatever they were looking for, they got it. Within the 35 looks sent down the runway, fabrics and colors were over the board (from a prim white evening coat with floral appliqués to a cocktail dress in silver lame snakeskin), making the overall direction somewhat difficult to determine. In spite of this, there were some notable pieces in the collection, particularly in the coats- a cobalt blue funnel neck looked fresh in both a long and a cropped length, a charcoal kimono sleeved coat was sophisticated and modern, and a black jacket with lovely cowl sleeves will definitely make it onto my wish list-Anna Sandberg
TulehDesign CenterThe Tuleh runway snaked around the decadent, yet homey space where the Fall '09 collection lived up to the Tuleh label. Designer Bryan Bradley designed a myriad of looks from pleated cuff trousers, dress coats, over sized vests, cocktail dresses, to evening gowns. Color was this line ups biggest asset with royal blues, deep purples and accents of silver and gold while fabrics included a smorgasbord of brocades, furs, wool knits, silks and much more. This collection is aimed for the uptown woman- one that isn't afraid of glamour and standing out in the crowd. -Meredith Garcia BinettiFocus GalleryWhen the lights dimmed & the music rose at the Binetti show, the models were wheeled out 4 at a time on circular discs by men in black unitards. When they reached the center of the room, they were helped off the platforms where they posed one by one for the media. All the while, the spandex clad men gyrated around the platform before they loaded their fashion clad cargo back onto the transport pods making room for the next mobile vignette. Bizarre & random? Yes. Distracting? Oddly not. The clothing was powerful enough to support itself without the quasi-artistic performance art. Purple in its purest form as well as a shade more towards Fuschia & of curse the season's requisite Cream & Black. Metallic Gold made an appearance via sequins or as filigree threads in graphic jacquards. The lone pattern was a giant tie dyed looking print in Purple & Black. Texture was evident in sculptured meltons & overly exaggerated fringe. The overall effect was updated Stevie Nicks in both style & silhouette. A nice touch was how the show was repeated at the end look by look, sans the dance performance theatrics. The point was made: This is a serious collection.-pq Calvin Klein Men’s205 West 39th StreetItalo Zucchelli took a trip to the fabric show & only saw one color… heather gray. The results… gray. This one note collection was a sleeper, which if it hadn’t been for the shiny silver suit & overcoat that was shown about ¾ of the way through the show, would have lured the audience to sleep, which is sad, as this show marked Calvin Klein Men’s return to New York after years of showing in Milan. While the cuts were typically beautiful & the casting was beyond attractive, the clothing was simply lackluster on first glance. Details such as hidden button plackets on suits & shirt collars devoid of topstitching were novel, they just weren’t enough to carry a collection that was suffering from poor piece goods merchandising. Collections that choose this level of simplicity aren’t unheard of, but when only a single color is employed & a pared down cut is used, the runway results can be deadly. This collection would have been better suited to be shown in a presentation where the observers could get up close & personal & interact with the clothing being shown them.-pq
TulehDesign CenterThe Tuleh runway snaked around the decadent, yet homey space where the Fall '09 collection lived up to the Tuleh label. Designer Bryan Bradley designed a myriad of looks from pleated cuff trousers, dress coats, over sized vests, cocktail dresses, to evening gowns. Color was this line ups biggest asset with royal blues, deep purples and accents of silver and gold while fabrics included a smorgasbord of brocades, furs, wool knits, silks and much more. This collection is aimed for the uptown woman- one that isn't afraid of glamour and standing out in the crowd.
BinettiFocus GalleryWhen the lights dimmed & the music rose at the Binetti show, the models were wheeled out 4 at a time on circular discs by men in black unitards. When they reached the center of the room, they were helped off the platforms where they posed one by one for the media. All the while, the spandex clad men gyrated around the platform before they loaded their fashion clad cargo back onto the transport pods making room for the next mobile vignette. Bizarre & random? Yes. Distracting? Oddly not. The clothing was powerful enough to support itself without the quasi-artistic performance art. Purple in its purest form as well as a shade more towards Fuschia & of curse the season's requisite Cream & Black. Metallic Gold made an appearance via sequins or as filigree threads in graphic jacquards. The lone pattern was a giant tie dyed looking print in Purple & Black. Texture was evident in sculptured meltons & overly exaggerated fringe. The overall effect was updated Stevie Nicks in both style & silhouette. A nice touch was how the show was repeated at the end look by look, sans the dance performance theatrics. The point was made: This is a serious collection.
Calvin Klein Men’s205 West 39th Street
Italo Zucchelli took a trip to the fabric show & only saw one color… heather gray. The results… gray. This one note collection was a sleeper, which if it hadn’t been for the shiny silver suit & overcoat that was shown about ¾ of the way through the show, would have lured the audience to sleep, which is sad, as this show marked Calvin Klein Men’s return to New York after years of showing in Milan. While the cuts were typically beautiful & the casting was beyond attractive, the clothing was simply lackluster on first glance. Details such as hidden button plackets on suits & shirt collars devoid of topstitching were novel, they just weren’t enough to carry a collection that was suffering from poor piece goods merchandising. Collections that choose this level of simplicity aren’t unheard of, but when only a single color is employed & a pared down cut is used, the runway results can be deadly. This collection would have been better suited to be shown in a presentation where the observers could get up close & personal & interact with the clothing being shown them.