Monday, February 16, 2009 Carlos MieleThe PromenadeLeave it to a Brazilian designer to create some of the sexiest; most unabashedly feminine looks I have seen hit the runways yet this fashion week. For Fall 2009 Carlos Miele "conceived geometric patterns and architectural forms", which took the shape of elaborately pleated boleros, sexy evening gowns, and plush furs, with agate cabochons and crystal detailing. The color palette started off with black, white, and muted bronze, but as the show progressed Miele threw in auburgine, scarlett, and lime green, along with some geometric patterns. The dresses (which are not for the body conscious) showcased pleated bodices that dipped into low v's in back, with skirts either falling gracefully to the floor, or hitting well above the knee. Standouts other than the dresses were the fur coats- mink and fox fur in shades of black, gray, purple and blue- and the pleated chiffon boleros.-Anna Sandberg Natorious by Josie NatoriBryant Park HotelFor the 3rd season of Natorious- the offshoot to her popular lingerie line, Josie Natori wanted to produce luxurious but accessible wardrobe staples for the modern woman. Using fine silks and wool, in mostly solid colors, all of the pieces are extremely versatile and have a timeless appeal. The bias cut silk tops are the standouts, with gently draped necklines and in offered in various different colors they will make easy go-to pieces to wear under suits for Fall.-Anna Sandberg Rozae NicholsSusan Inglett Gallery Rozae Nichols showed her collection at an art gallery in Chelsea, which was a completely appropriate venue for the artistically conceptual designer. Nichols Fall/Winter line entitled "Chiaroscuro" plays on light value in clothing. Nichols' collection is almost entirely black, yet she is trying to produce a range in dimension of the clothes through light versus using color to provide contrast. Nichols venue, which was incredibly intimate, provided each guest the time to speak with the designer in regards to her collection. When asked what woman she imagines buying and wearing her clothes, Ms. Nichols stated that she ideally designs for a more "reverent woman, one that is an educator and a thinker". Nichols took an ample amount of time to explain the detailing on each piece which included a hand painted pleaded sheath skirt, a leather jacket that had magnetic buttons sewn inside the lapel in order to provide a completely clean line, and a black columned dress that "comes alive" with a graphic of chalk drawn lighting. Rozae Nichols who very apparently is a reverent woman herself captured her intentions with this collection; it was indeed a presentation that echoed ephemeral movement and ghost-like illuminations.-Kai Baukol Tracy ReeseThe SalonWith show goers packed into the small tent space and many happy to stand, Tracy Reese had no shortage of fans awaiting her Fall 2009 collection, which proved to be youthful, feminine, and ultra-wearable. The beige and black runway backdrop, reminiscent of an old fashioned pen-and-ink drawing, not only set the tone for a chic, cheeky show but also provided the basis for her color palette. From there she incorporated florals and bold graphic patterns in kelly green or punch pink; soft shades of mauve and apricot accented with sparkling silver beading; and blood orange and chartreuse silks edged with delicate black lace. With plenty of ruffles and frills, she offset the femininity by mixing in bold black and cream zig-zag prints, hounds-tooth coats, pinstripe trousers, and fur stoles. While the 35 looks offered a great deal of variety, Reese's styling proved to be the unifying factor as models sporting slouchy, over the knee socks with little ribbed caps and faux-glasses worked a look that was sort of 'NYU art major-meets Parisian chic'.-Anna SandbergTerexovThe PromenadeUsing silk printed with an art deco cityscape as a jumping off point, the Fall 2009 Terexov collection had a kind of updated 1930's feel to it. Beginning the show with day dresses, Terexov moved from the cityscape shifts in muted tones of beige, teal, rose, and mustard yellow, into some fantastic leather dresses- one in yellow, gathered and belted at the waist, and another shirt-dress style in blue. Other practical yet luxurious day wear included separates such as knee-length skirts, peg-leg trousers, knit dresses, and cardigans in neutral shades of wool and cashmere. As the shades on his silk cityscapes turned dark and the looks transitioned towards evening, we saw shimmering sequin dresses, silk blouses tucked into metallic pencil skirts, and touches of soft shimmering velvet and fur. The colors stayed within after-hours shades of midnight and black, with a pop of aqua here and gold there, perfect compliments for the sophisticated silhouettes shown and even more perfect for an elegant, old fashioned night on the town.-Anna Sandberg Yigal Azrouel Men’sYigal StoreYigal Azrouel continues to prove he is a one to watch in the New York Fashion scene. His menswear collection followed a trend that has been seen throughout the week, a modern play on vintage and rugged looks in neutral pallet. Yigal however knows how to provide a balance between heavily knitted neck wraps and ultra thin silhouettes that looks effortless. Azrouel manipulated tailored pieces to create structure. He faded out the collection by washing the leathers and utilized color removal processing in other garments in the collection. Azrouel also attempted to use atypical fabrics, such as sweat-pant material and cotton-fleece, as trouser material. His collection would most be appropriately worn by a man that is more carefree in his wardrobe choices; a Downtown or Brooklyn hipster would more than appreciate the craftiness in Azrouel's clothing while the Upper East-side banker would be wishing he could look this cool.-Kai Baukol Marc JacobsThe Armory It’s Neon-tastic at the Fall 2009 Marc Jacobs Show! Call it what you will, but this collection was all about the 80’s and all about those moments in life when getting dolled up took a lot more effort and excitement than it does today. Jacobs included every color of the Crayola box and each girl had a look of her own; wearing more bright makeup and hairspray than the previous. The collection included everything from wide shoulder pads, slouchy belted sweaters, Mohawks, bright colored capes and ponchos. And no Marc Jacobs show could be complete without his flirty party frocks- this year’s being metallic. -Aura Bretan CorpusBowery HotelL.A. based Corpus brought their line to New York for the first time today and kept it safe for the Fall/Winter 2009 collection of menswear and womenswear. Knit oversized hats, plaid pants and flannels, loose floral print tops, tight jeans and leggings with leather jackets and blazers…Reminiscent of an upscale A and F with a grungy vibe. The colors were rather muted and had no real pop of color. The ambiance was like a 1990s alternative rock music video with everyone, models included, just hanging out sipping on a drink. The dark mood was enhanced by the low lit bar scene in the Bowery Hotel. Laid-back and carefree for this range of looks. -Elizabeth Lechleiter Tony CohenThe SalonDaring? Then you will love buying Tony Cohen’s 2009 latest looks. The slim leather stretch leggings were well balanced with loosely draped and wrapped asymmetrical dresses in chiffon and silk. The color palette included a range of neutral beige, grey stone and black shades but with splashes of merlot, amethyst and multi prints that looked like abstract paintings. Extremely successful prints in neutral tones offered a well-rounded collection when mixed and matched. Fur, cashmere, ostrich feathers, wool brocade, and other deluxe textiles are sure to keep you looking hot when temperatures drop next Fall. -Elizabeth Lechleiter Alice + Olivia Alice + Olivia StoreUnfortunately I felt like I was at an overcrowded sporting event. It was too bad because the few looks that I caught a glimpse of were interesting and I wanted to see more. Perhaps it was part of the presentation, as I read that designer Stacey Bendet described this collection being for ‘a coquettish girl making her way through the city.’ The presentation featured four models standing in the Alice + Olivia storefront window and the remaining looks were displayed as images on the wall and marionettes. Black, grey, crimson, and blue-green shades were among some of the short, shiny and fitted silhouettes. Exposed zippers and rugged jeans paired with chunky knit sweaters for day and sexy dresses for night. Despite the confusion, youthful trendsetters will surely find what they are looking for next Fall.-Elizabeth Lechleiter Zero+Maria CornejoRobert Miller GalleryWhen Maria Cornejo sent her first looks down the runway, the audience couldn’t help but wonder, where’s the Maria we all know & love? This marked departure from her normal, some would say “trademark” obsession with the ellipse, left the collection looking odd, uninspired & in short — not Maria. The collection was styled in the season’s norm of Black, Browns & Creams with one refreshing addition of a Cement sort of Gray color that was new to this observer for the season. Overall, the effect was dark, brooding & almost depressing. I was wondering if Ms. Cornejo may have been channeling the arguably alive Rick Owens, especially when some of the knit flight helmet looking hats came out to transform the models into turtle like creatures, what with the giant oversize coats resembling shells. Then came the final few looks & the Zero+Maria Cornejo we came to see was back in full blossom. They were simply divine & so true to what she does best without looking the least bit old or already done. Ms. Cornejo is the high priestess of the unusual wrap creating a sort of non-constraining bondage feeling & these last few looks proved she deserves the title. She was there all along; it just took a while to see.-pq General IdeaF/Ocus GalleryThe invites for the General Idea Men’s collection made this unknown collection a must see from the get go —Plastic slide puzzles that became an instant inner office distraction. The General Idea collection proved to be more than a distraction & more of a must have for men, piece by piece. It didn’t break any new color ground, that’s for sure, sticking closely to Black, White & Gray without exception. On the silhouette front, the news here was slim bottoms, slim tops with a little bit of volume in the jackets. The standout pieces were two silver, polished metallic outerwear pieces, a vest & bomber. They made a real statement, not easy in a collection of men’s in all black & gray. There was a single geometric print that was applied on jackets & trousers alike. The effect was achieved primarily through seaming & subtle detailing until the last segment of the show, where the jacket silhouettes took on exaggerated shoulder proportions that turned up as they joined the sleeve head. The result was otherworldly & odd, but this is fashion, so we forgive. This show, while a bit too fast paced to allow the observer to take in the delights that were being offered, was just the type of gem that is discovered only by taking the time & making the effort to venture away from Bryant Park. Designer BumSuk delivered a treat that made our efforts totally worth it. I’m already looking forward to Spring ’10!-pq Cynthia RowleyThe Jane HotelThe unfinished lobby (???) of The Jane Hotel was where Cynthia Rowley chose to stage her Fall ’09 show. Inconvenience aside, the real problems were with safety & scale. We heard more than one fellow attendee comment about the difficulty getting out in an emergency (there was only one door in or out) & the room was so small that the entire length of the runway afforded each model a mere 5 steps up & 5 steps down the “runway”. From what we could see of the clothing as it made its 10 step walk past us, Ms. Rowley’s inspiration of the “wishbone” could only loosely be seen in crisscrossed patches on waist panels. Theme aside, the collection was heavy on shine & color, the later being Black, Deep Inky Navy, Blood Orange & some Forest Green & Regal Purple. There was a strong 40’s feeling with peplum jackets, below the knee skirts & exaggerated shoulders on all. The real winner was a likely one – a 1 ½” wide silk satin silk trapunto tie on peplum “belt” that was shown atop every item from dresses to jackets to blouses. It was very cute, very girly, very… Cynthia.-pq Toni MaticevskiThe Altman BuildingUnfortunately Toni Maticevski failed to fill the seats even after standing room was let in to fill (most likely due to the chilly weather and Monday evening time-slot), yet a couple notable guests were in attendance. Pat Field made an appearance the evening following her Birthday bash, Carson Kreesley spoke to reporters, and Solange Knowles looked excited to be seated next to her celebrated neighbors. Maticevski displayed a completely feminine collection that used a plethora of luxurious materials ranging from shear silks, as well as a seemingly unlimited amount of organza and lace in his pieces. Maticevski was not afraid to use all parts of the model's body as elements in his collection, but his shear tops and bottoms are obviously used in good taste that enabled a very ethereal vibe to the line. His embellished platformed shoes are similar to the current Prada winged heals, however Maticevski takes it ones step further by adding feathers and beads to his footwear which worked well with theultra-feminine and bold clothing.-Kai Baukol Organic by John PatrickCHIIt's 1910 meets 2010 exclaimed John Patrick on his Fall/Winter collection for Organic. The collection was as one would expect (and hope) colored in neutral tones to reflect the natural aesthetic. Subtle texture could be seen with the use of wools in most of the garments, as well as organically geometric prints found on multiple looks. Patrick used wax finishing that mixed well with a notable amount of soft leathers being used in jackets and other garments. Besides the limited menswear displayed, pants were almost nonexistent in this Autumn collection with the exception of one jumpsuit. Instead, Patrick chose to show mini-skirts and cropped trench jackets. The presentation was displayed at the bottom of a church in Clinton, a bake sale was offered to guests which provided an overall 40's nostalgia which the collection equally exuded.-Kai Baukol VittadiniThe International Center of PhotographySet against the backdrop of a retrospective of editorial fashion photography, creative director Kristina Salminen made an admirable attempt at reviving the once venerable house of Vittadini. The results were at times wonderful & were at times only good. Ms. Salminen definitely has a command of the knit medium & considering the fact that she's directing a line once synonymous with bridge knitwear, she's in the right race. The colors were Gray, Black, Cream, a rich Forest Green & oddly, a screaming Mustard Yellow near neon in intensity. The silhouettes struck a fine balance between "hip" & "frump", but not in a bad way, but rather the way Michael Kors or Miuccia Prada does with the saleable parts of their collections. These clothes are real & intended for real women. If the prices are kept in check, this observer feels the line has a good chance of righting the wrong been done to the label when it closed.-pq GenerraThe Event SpaceGenerra displayed a collection based on nouveau grunge supported by separates for their Fall/Winter 2009 RTW line. A mostly muted and dulled pallet of gray accented with warm tones of orange and yellow--knits were found in leggings and hats across the board. This collection displays what is being seen throughout many presentations that have a strong youth following; a style influenced by Kurt Cobain's effortless grunge of the early 90's, yet somehow tailoring it to look fresh and modern. Generra exploited a multitude of textures and subtle prints that worked cohesively throughout the collection. One would expect actresses like Rachel Bilson and Blake Lively to take comfort in sporting Generra's new collection as they walk the New York Streets this coming autumn.-Kai Baukol
Leave it to a Brazilian designer to create some of the sexiest; most unabashedly feminine looks I have seen hit the runways yet this fashion week. For Fall 2009 Carlos Miele "conceived geometric patterns and architectural forms", which took the shape of elaborately pleated boleros, sexy evening gowns, and plush furs, with agate cabochons and crystal detailing. The color palette started off with black, white, and muted bronze, but as the show progressed Miele threw in auburgine, scarlett, and lime green, along with some geometric patterns. The dresses (which are not for the body conscious) showcased pleated bodices that dipped into low v's in back, with skirts either falling gracefully to the floor, or hitting well above the knee. Standouts other than the dresses were the fur coats- mink and fox fur in shades of black, gray, purple and blue- and the pleated chiffon boleros.
-Anna Sandberg
For the 3rd season of Natorious- the offshoot to her popular lingerie line, Josie Natori wanted to produce luxurious but accessible wardrobe staples for the modern woman. Using fine silks and wool, in mostly solid colors, all of the pieces are extremely versatile and have a timeless appeal. The bias cut silk tops are the standouts, with gently draped necklines and in offered in various different colors they will make easy go-to pieces to wear under suits for Fall.
Rozae Nichols showed her collection at an art gallery in Chelsea, which was a completely appropriate venue for the artistically conceptual designer. Nichols Fall/Winter line entitled "Chiaroscuro" plays on light value in clothing. Nichols' collection is almost entirely black, yet she is trying to produce a range in dimension of the clothes through light versus using color to provide contrast. Nichols venue, which was incredibly intimate, provided each guest the time to speak with the designer in regards to her collection. When asked what woman she imagines buying and wearing her clothes, Ms. Nichols stated that she ideally designs for a more "reverent woman, one that is an educator and a thinker". Nichols took an ample amount of time to explain the detailing on each piece which included a hand painted pleaded sheath skirt, a leather jacket that had magnetic buttons sewn inside the lapel in order to provide a completely clean line, and a black columned dress that "comes alive" with a graphic of chalk drawn lighting. Rozae Nichols who very apparently is a reverent woman herself captured her intentions with this collection; it was indeed a presentation that echoed ephemeral movement and ghost-like illuminations.
Tracy ReeseThe Salon
With show goers packed into the small tent space and many happy to stand, Tracy Reese had no shortage of fans awaiting her Fall 2009 collection, which proved to be youthful, feminine, and ultra-wearable. The beige and black runway backdrop, reminiscent of an old fashioned pen-and-ink drawing, not only set the tone for a chic, cheeky show but also provided the basis for her color palette. From there she incorporated florals and bold graphic patterns in kelly green or punch pink; soft shades of mauve and apricot accented with sparkling silver beading; and blood orange and chartreuse silks edged with delicate black lace. With plenty of ruffles and frills, she offset the femininity by mixing in bold black and cream zig-zag prints, hounds-tooth coats, pinstripe trousers, and fur stoles. While the 35 looks offered a great deal of variety, Reese's styling proved to be the unifying factor as models sporting slouchy, over the knee socks with little ribbed caps and faux-glasses worked a look that was sort of 'NYU art major-meets Parisian chic'.
TerexovThe Promenade
Using silk printed with an art deco cityscape as a jumping off point, the Fall 2009 Terexov collection had a kind of updated 1930's feel to it. Beginning the show with day dresses, Terexov moved from the cityscape shifts in muted tones of beige, teal, rose, and mustard yellow, into some fantastic leather dresses- one in yellow, gathered and belted at the waist, and another shirt-dress style in blue. Other practical yet luxurious day wear included separates such as knee-length skirts, peg-leg trousers, knit dresses, and cardigans in neutral shades of wool and cashmere. As the shades on his silk cityscapes turned dark and the looks transitioned towards evening, we saw shimmering sequin dresses, silk blouses tucked into metallic pencil skirts, and touches of soft shimmering velvet and fur. The colors stayed within after-hours shades of midnight and black, with a pop of aqua here and gold there, perfect compliments for the sophisticated silhouettes shown and even more perfect for an elegant, old fashioned night on the town.
Yigal Azrouel continues to prove he is a one to watch in the New York Fashion scene. His menswear collection followed a trend that has been seen throughout the week, a modern play on vintage and rugged looks in neutral pallet. Yigal however knows how to provide a balance between heavily knitted neck wraps and ultra thin silhouettes that looks effortless. Azrouel manipulated tailored pieces to create structure. He faded out the collection by washing the leathers and utilized color removal processing in other garments in the collection. Azrouel also attempted to use atypical fabrics, such as sweat-pant material and cotton-fleece, as trouser material. His collection would most be appropriately worn by a man that is more carefree in his wardrobe choices; a Downtown or Brooklyn hipster would more than appreciate the craftiness in Azrouel's clothing while the Upper East-side banker would be wishing he could look this cool.
Marc JacobsThe Armory
It’s Neon-tastic at the Fall 2009 Marc Jacobs Show! Call it what you will, but this collection was all about the 80’s and all about those moments in life when getting dolled up took a lot more effort and excitement than it does today. Jacobs included every color of the Crayola box and each girl had a look of her own; wearing more bright makeup and hairspray than the previous. The collection included everything from wide shoulder pads, slouchy belted sweaters, Mohawks, bright colored capes and ponchos. And no Marc Jacobs show could be complete without his flirty party frocks- this year’s being metallic.
-Aura Bretan
CorpusBowery HotelL.A. based Corpus brought their line to New York for the first time today and kept it safe for the Fall/Winter 2009 collection of menswear and womenswear. Knit oversized hats, plaid pants and flannels, loose floral print tops, tight jeans and leggings with leather jackets and blazers…Reminiscent of an upscale A and F with a grungy vibe. The colors were rather muted and had no real pop of color. The ambiance was like a 1990s alternative rock music video with everyone, models included, just hanging out sipping on a drink. The dark mood was enhanced by the low lit bar scene in the Bowery Hotel. Laid-back and carefree for this range of looks. -Elizabeth Lechleiter
Tony CohenThe SalonDaring? Then you will love buying Tony Cohen’s 2009 latest looks. The slim leather stretch leggings were well balanced with loosely draped and wrapped asymmetrical dresses in chiffon and silk. The color palette included a range of neutral beige, grey stone and black shades but with splashes of merlot, amethyst and multi prints that looked like abstract paintings. Extremely successful prints in neutral tones offered a well-rounded collection when mixed and matched. Fur, cashmere, ostrich feathers, wool brocade, and other deluxe textiles are sure to keep you looking hot when temperatures drop next Fall. -Elizabeth Lechleiter
Alice + Olivia Alice + Olivia StoreUnfortunately I felt like I was at an overcrowded sporting event. It was too bad because the few looks that I caught a glimpse of were interesting and I wanted to see more. Perhaps it was part of the presentation, as I read that designer Stacey Bendet described this collection being for ‘a coquettish girl making her way through the city.’ The presentation featured four models standing in the Alice + Olivia storefront window and the remaining looks were displayed as images on the wall and marionettes. Black, grey, crimson, and blue-green shades were among some of the short, shiny and fitted silhouettes. Exposed zippers and rugged jeans paired with chunky knit sweaters for day and sexy dresses for night. Despite the confusion, youthful trendsetters will surely find what they are looking for next Fall.-Elizabeth Lechleiter
Toni MaticevskiThe Altman Building
Unfortunately Toni Maticevski failed to fill the seats even after standing room was let in to fill (most likely due to the chilly weather and Monday evening time-slot), yet a couple notable guests were in attendance. Pat Field made an appearance the evening following her Birthday bash, Carson Kreesley spoke to reporters, and Solange Knowles looked excited to be seated next to her celebrated neighbors. Maticevski displayed a completely feminine collection that used a plethora of luxurious materials ranging from shear silks, as well as a seemingly unlimited amount of organza and lace in his pieces. Maticevski was not afraid to use all parts of the model's body as elements in his collection, but his shear tops and bottoms are obviously used in good taste that enabled a very ethereal vibe to the line. His embellished platformed shoes are similar to the current Prada winged heals, however Maticevski takes it ones step further by adding feathers and beads to his footwear which worked well with theultra-feminine and bold clothing.-Kai Baukol
Organic by John PatrickCHI
It's 1910 meets 2010 exclaimed John Patrick on his Fall/Winter collection for Organic. The collection was as one would expect (and hope) colored in neutral tones to reflect the natural aesthetic. Subtle texture could be seen with the use of wools in most of the garments, as well as organically geometric prints found on multiple looks. Patrick used wax finishing that mixed well with a notable amount of soft leathers being used in jackets and other garments. Besides the limited menswear displayed, pants were almost nonexistent in this Autumn collection with the exception of one jumpsuit. Instead, Patrick chose to show mini-skirts and cropped trench jackets. The presentation was displayed at the bottom of a church in Clinton, a bake sale was offered to guests which provided an overall 40's nostalgia which the collection equally exuded.
-Kai Baukol
VittadiniThe International Center of PhotographySet against the backdrop of a retrospective of editorial fashion photography, creative director Kristina Salminen made an admirable attempt at reviving the once venerable house of Vittadini. The results were at times wonderful & were at times only good. Ms. Salminen definitely has a command of the knit medium & considering the fact that she's directing a line once synonymous with bridge knitwear, she's in the right race. The colors were Gray, Black, Cream, a rich Forest Green & oddly, a screaming Mustard Yellow near neon in intensity. The silhouettes struck a fine balance between "hip" & "frump", but not in a bad way, but rather the way Michael Kors or Miuccia Prada does with the saleable parts of their collections. These clothes are real & intended for real women. If the prices are kept in check, this observer feels the line has a good chance of righting the wrong been done to the label when it closed.-pq
GenerraThe Event Space
Generra displayed a collection based on nouveau grunge supported by separates for their Fall/Winter 2009 RTW line. A mostly muted and dulled pallet of gray accented with warm tones of orange and yellow--knits were found in leggings and hats across the board. This collection displays what is being seen throughout many presentations that have a strong youth following; a style influenced by Kurt Cobain's effortless grunge of the early 90's, yet somehow tailoring it to look fresh and modern. Generra exploited a multitude of textures and subtle prints that worked cohesively throughout the collection. One would expect actresses like Rachel Bilson and Blake Lively to take comfort in sporting Generra's new collection as they walk the New York Streets this coming autumn.