Ports 1961: Geometric Art Nouveau

The Ports 1961 Pre-Spring Collection was shown in an intimate setting of the label’s new design studio above its flagship store in New York’s Meatpacking District.  Entitled “The Tea Room Collection”, Spring 2010 was said to be inspired by the artistic collaboration & the deep mutual admiration between the Art Nouveau movement’s founding father Charles Mackintosh & his wife Margaret MacDonald.  Mackintosh’s affinity for MacDonald crossed beyond simple professional admiration when he wrote, “Margaret has genius, I only have talent.”  With this, one of the greatest love stories in art history was born.

Ports 1961’s designer, Tia Cibani, was wholly Inspired by Mackintosh & MacDonald’s offbeat vision & their fluid use of Art Nouveau relief.  But the somewhat cliché sensuous curves of the movement are not what Cibani references, but rather, she focused on a clean silhouette of straight lines & bold grid patterns referencing the fragile beauty of the Mackintosh ladder-back chairs of the period.

Architectural embellishments in onyx & pearl are realized in matte & shiny 3D geometric beading.  Silk satin in shades of plum & nude produce a stark contrast in a spirited feminine way.  Diamond shapes & linear silhouettes are detailed with paddle sleeves & androgynous tailoring.  Distinctive textile grid work patterns are clearly referenced in heritage tweeds, gold metallic tufted jacquards & graphic velvet, all off set by the designer’s trademark stark white shirtings as dresses, blouses, skirts, etc.

Cibani’s most vaulting moments were when she stuck to the simplistic pieces that she executes with the same level of competence as the most accomplished European minimalists.  Cibani, however, knows just how to add a detail here – a trick there – that leave the observer no doubt that the piece is Ports.  Case & point is her raincoat capelet, pictured right, which upon 1st glance appears purely “fashion” with little function.  Closer inspection reveals invisible zippers on the side seams to allow the wearer enough mobility to carry an umbrella, reach for a door, or hail a cab.  Ms. Cibani takes it one step further, but not too far, when she adds interior straps, raw cut edging & thoughtful reflective seam binding.  Its obvious Ms. Cibani takes her tea with just the right amount of sugar.

Top photo courtesy of Fashion Wire Press

-Scott French