ONtheRise:
Aeleis by Philippe Trinh

Photos:  John Paul Tran

In a season where some 15 men’s labels are missing from the runway schedule of only 6 months ago, it has to be with a moment of contemplative pause that someone enters into the fray given the tenor of the past few seasons.  Philippe Trinh is taking just such a pause & diving head first into the fashion torrent with his collection of clean to the point of edgy menswear under the name of “Aeleis” (said alias).

Trinh states his inspiration as New York City, specifically the Lower East Side, & has chosen to focus on what he calls “classic menswear staples, primarily the perfect fitting shirt.”  The designer goes on to state, “I’ve taken the classic woven shirt, refined it with superb construction, included hand-finishing techniques & gave it a little twist. I wanted to push the limits of US production to embody that hip edge & spirit of New York in every stitch of the garment.” 

The capsule collection focuses above the belt line by not including a single trouser. It is comprised mostly of woven shirts, but it does feature a few other pieces, including a shrunken leather jacket & a few tissue-weight jersey knits in closely fit silhouettes.  Trinh has spent ample time perfecting a brand identity that includes slightly higher set armholes, leaner fits, french seamed interiors, metal chain locker loops & precision in collar treatments, shapes & details.  An avid collector of vintage custom shirt demo croquis, which he finds in a variety of places from flea markets to eBay, Trinh says he’s fascinated by the range of subtle details that were so much a part of the fashion vocabulary in the men’s market of times past.  In his words, “this all gives the collection a more made to measure fit.”

Though the Aeleis collection may be new, Philippe Trinh is no stranger to the streets of the Garment Center.  Prior to breaking out on his own, he spent 3 years designing for the Perry Ellis Menswear collection, working on their Signature Fashion Shows & premium label.  A graduate of Kent State University, Trinh also studied under some other major names including Phillip Lim & Adam Lippes among others.

His serious designer pedigree speaks volumes of his confidence as a designer.  When questioned about his logo or label not being visible anywhere on his garments, Trinh quickly counters, “There’s no obvious branding on the exterior.  You just have to have notice & appreciate it for its luxurious fit, fabric & superior craftsmanship.” 

www.aeleis.com

-pq