New York Fashion Week:
Day #2
02.11.10-

Photos provided by FashionWirePress

Cushnie Et Ochs
Stage 37
BPCM

Chockfull of McQueen references the Parson’s alums & past Ecco Domani recipients, Carly Cushnie & Michelle Ochs, have stepped up their game & have proved to all nay sayers why they are so appreciated & coveted by fashion’s most influential.  Touching on just about every trend & creating many of their own, this collection was by far my favorite of all the shows this season.  The pallet of black & white provided just enough simplicity while intricate detailing spoke mounds.  Hoofed models trotted down the black runway in 5” platform wedges while accessorized with studded, bejeweled gloves & leather ski caps. 

Even if they took out all the accessorizes- what remained was a solid, rich collection ranging from chiffon blouses, leather padded pencil skirts, Cashmere mesh sweaters, a crinkled leather sheath, a 3D curved dress, a leather perforated dot blouse & an ostrich feathered silk T-shirt.  To say this assortment was well thought out, well executed & well organized does not do justice to the strength & future of this commanding collection & its talented designers.

-Meredith Garcia

 

Mik Cire by Eric Kim
The Promenade
MAO PR

With a mix of an Army and Biker look, Eric Kim’s latest collection screamed masculinity.  The sex appeal of the line had a look of total confidence.  After seeing many designs with mixed fabrics on the runway this season, Eric Kim obviously took note on this upcoming trend by creating a wool coat and adding leather sleeves.  Tall black boots with leather straps were paired nicely with a motorcycle jacket; navy washed lambskin and rinsed washed denim.  From leather to twill to wool, Kim created many jackets and coats each having a different accent to set them apart from the previous.  The unique asymmetrical jackets went perfectly with the ultra tight fitting jean and cashmere scarf hanging from the belt loop.  Exaggerated zippers on the jackets added an extra flair, as did the black Italian pony hair large duffle with croc accents.  Kim also designed a matching briefcase and black washed lambskin satchel, all three timeless, classic pieces for the weekend or office. As the show ended and the models took their last walk, designer, Eric Kim walked out to his very deserving applause, holding his adorable son. 

-Jena Clem

 

Mackage
The Salon
Trachtenberg & Co. PR

The adorable Canadian duo from Mackage- Elisa Dahan & Eran Elfassy- launched their first Ready-To-Wear collection without a hint of novice in their design.  Their collection, known for its superior men’s & women’s outerwear also stayed true to its roots by incorporating seamlessly the craft they had become identified with for so long.  One component to their women’s RTW that is of note is their attention to the definition of the shoulder.  Utilizing scalloping, tiered techniques & other exaggerated forms, dresses & shirts stood out as a bold alternative to other labels with a similar aesthetic.  Men wore skinny, short, leather cigarette pants topped with nothing other than strong jackets & coats like a Perfecto style leather jackets, a herringbone peacoat, & down coats with fur hoods.  For a first attempt at RTW we have to tip our hats & give congrats on a job well done.

-Meredith Garcia

Toni Maticevski
Altman Building
Factory PR

Memorable, ageless, ghostly, and delicate define Toni Maticevski’s collection not only this season, but also every season.  Sounds of gunshots from a movie soundtrack were heard in the background as the models began to take the runway.  A dark feeling begins to overwhelm, but as the whimsical and elegant gowns, dash by, you cannot help but think of beauty and anticipation. Maticevski has taken eveningwear to a new place this season.  Silk tulle and organza skirts were part of many looks, giving you a distressed, yet beautifully elegant appearance.  A polka dot chiffon draped cut away dress and a black sequin bra and tube skirt added a little fun to this collection.  A tweed oversized wool jacket, cinched at the waist, complimented the pleated pin tucked skirt, and was nicely styled on the model.  Having many shear tops and sequined bras Maticevski did not have a single piece that lacked a statement.  The Fall/Winter 2010 collection was endearing and although it was a dramatic runway show, his collection took you to another place, where the looks each told their very own story.
 
-Jena Clem

 

Miguel Antoinne
Media Oasis
Pierce Mattie PR

Miguel Antoinne´s fall/ winter 2010 collection is definitely cutting edge. Its target audience is defined by the designer as the “Downtown bad boy that issexy and loved by women”. For this collection the look is very futuristic, but enduring. The shapes and silhouettes are intended to slim and elongate the male figure and all pieces appear to be well thought and combined and layered.  For example, a trench coat can be converted into a short cropped jacket by detaching the bottom part with a functional zipper. Thermal underwear goespublic this season with the addition of cargo pockets and the intention to be worn and seen (or layered under pants). One of the biggest surprises where oversized pockets added to tailored pants. Leather details, zippers, water resistant treated linen and subtle raw edges give this collection a fascinating appeal. Colors where inspired by those cool nights in the city and thus predominantly dark. Black dominates the scene, accompanied by gray, navy and hints of bordeaux and bone. A subtle sheen adds texture and creates interesting light effects resembling the moon reflects.

Everything in this collection was well thought and is functional. From pockets to zippers, fabrics and textures, everything has its place. The pieces can be easily mixed and matched with a traditional wardrobe adding individualism and edginess to each style.  
 
-Miri Schottlaender

 

Robert Tonner
Algonquin Hotel
In-House PR

Robert Tonner chose the Algonquin Hotel to present his gorgeous vintage enthused collection.  Inspired by novelist, Ellowyne Wilde, he designed a classic style that is reflective of her wardrobe.  While honoring today’s woman and her ability to live life in fast forward when necessary and the history of style with every thoughtful step, Tonner designs were stunning and elegant.  The ruby chiffon and taffeta cocktail dress with a shirred bodice and ruffled short skirt are ideal for any social event, but some designs looked like they should also come in doll sizes.  Realistically, not all of Tonner’s designs are appropriate for certain events;  however, giving credit when credit is due-the sleeveless black cocktail dress, layered with silk chiffon and cotton velvet organza ribbon, and pleated with silk taffeta was nothing short of perfect-it is a classic piece that can be worn in seasons to come.  Showing improvement from last season, I look forward to seeing more of Robert Tonner and his designs.

-Jena Clem

 

Erin Wasson x RVCA
ABC Carpets
BPCM

In what was by far the “vibey-est” setting I’ve ever experienced at a fashion show, Erin Wasson showed her latest collection under the co-branded Erin Wasson x RVCA label.  In the audience were downtown fashion notables, Mickey Boardman & Lynn Yeager among others & even a celebrity or two, Ke$sha caused the biggest stir as she entered to take her seat among the piles of rugs that played the role of benches for the attendees to sit upon.  When the lights dimmed & the music began (in this case a live set by “Yeasayer”), the fashions began.  The collection was entitled “Alabaster” on the run of show & every look from the first one to the conclusion was some shade of marble, save for the occasional appearance of black – cream, stone, putty or olive.  The fabrications ran the gamut from fuji silks & charmeuses to jerseys & thermals on the more textural end of the range.  In what was the 2nd time thus far that a t-shirt was shown with a message, Erin Wasson emblazoned a white cotton number with the phrase “Where there’s a will, there’s a way”.  This entire experience struck a particularly odd note for those in our party as we had just had a conversation at dinner right before this show began, during which we used the phrase “Where there’s a will, there’s a way” & playing over the sound system was none other than Ke$ha singing her current #1 single.  Wow man, cosmic…

-Scott French

 

Duckie Brown
The Salon
Deborah Hughes Inc

Mad for Plaid- Daniel Silver & Steven Cox- the delightful design duo brought us inspiration straight from the motherland- England with a mescla of traditional tartans & tweeds.  Blazers were boxy & pants were slim & short (keeping on trend with many of this season’s key men’s silhouettes).  The man who wears this collection is not afraid to be seen & wear color (and I mean LOTS of color).  Always an amusing & effervescent collection this season was nothing less than classic Duckie.

-Meredith Garcia

 

Organic
West 36th Street
Krupp Group

Positioned on unfinished boxes, this winter wonderland formed by intertwined plastic hangers consisted of bold colors, leathers, plaids, and wools.  The daring and creative designer John Patrick had a golden idea when matching different fabrics and colors, working very much in his favor.  The different prints were each done in a shear material paired nicely with a wool short or simple pair of white tights.  The brown leather capped sleeve dress naturally looked incredible with the pin striped tight and laced heel.  High waist and wool wide legged power suit pants showed John Patrick’s originality when paired with a floral print and red wool jacket.  One favorite was the leather-cropped pants coordinated with a camel wool coat and a washed out brown belt to add contrast.  A splash of red in the leather glove was the perfect detail needed with a blue turtleneck and brown leather knee skirt.  Gloves were used to add and bring out certain colors in different pieces.  The models smokey eye and messy bouffant hair created a look as though after work drinks did not go as planned.  However, allowed you to notice the effortless look, a look that has been popular in previous seasons.  Bringing back a similar1990 Ralph Lauren look, John Patrick has made Organic…colorful.

-Jena Clem

 

BCBG Max Azria
The Tent
In-House

Max Azria has been studying geometry this season & his studies were realized in a covetable collection of tunics with handkerchief hems & covered in prints not so distant from Mondrian prints, all recolored in cement, cream, putty, navy, olive & black.  The results were far more modern, though no less drapey than his seasons of the recent past.  Embellishments, in the form of matte silver sequins in geometric  starburst patterns or in a tightly undulating zig-zag pattern like the print-out from a lie detector test- were far from plentiful, but when used, they were used to great success.  BCBG suffers the glorious curse of having an immediately identifiable look & thus is difficult to reinvent entirely without losing one’s most devoted fans.  Mr. Azria succeeded this season.

-Scott French 

 

Ports1961
The Promenade
Atelier PR

Tia Cibani, as those who read us regularly, is one of our favorite designers.  This season, she not only meets expectations, but once again managed to exceed them.  Her creations for Ports 1961 have a definitive look of their own & are designed with such a unique voice that they are recognized on their face as “Ports” prior to the label even being seen.  Theelements she uses as part of her design vernacular – raw cut edges, nontraditional materials for accessories & unexpected methods of creating volume – were all there involume & never once looked to be rehashed.  Her command of her “language” is matched by few designers ifany.  The line notes stated that the season’s inspiration was found in the “relationship between discovery & invention.” The inspiration was clearly seen as this collection seemed to look back & forth simultaneously.  It started in what immediately felt like homage to Pierre Cardin or Courreges & continued for a while in this mode, experimenting with looks in modern fabrics like neoprene & surface treatments resembling saran wrapped details, before ending in a place that can only be described as wholly “Cibani”.  The result, a sort of timelessness.  Though there were a few weak looks (the clover pleated lame pieces towards the finale), the 45 remaining high notes far outweighed the two relative lows.  The color palate was typically Ports, with Pepper, Tobacco, Iris, Ginger, Clover… like pages from a horticulture book.  The invite’s theme suddenly made sense.  If you have to pick just one Ports 1961 piece to purchase for the season, it would have to be the coats that are done in a range of volume options.  So far, no other collection has been able to rival them.

-Scott French 

 

Daniel Vosovic
Exit Art
BPCM

Project Runway’s season two alum Daniel Vosovic madehis first appearance at New York Fashion Week on Thursday with a presentation at Exit Art. The gallery was packed as Vosovic mingled with guests who made their way around the room to take in the 16-look collection. “Creative destruction” and the “effects of time and elements on statues and sculptures” were the inspiration behind Vosovic’s fall collection. The collection featured structured silhouettes with interesting lines combined with soft, feminine draping. Using rich Earth tones, like rust and a teal-blue, Vosovic evoked feelings of nature and the elements throughout the collection. The printed leggings and dresses, derived from the study of oxidized copper and broken marble, stood out amongst the various separates. Many of the collection’s pieces would work for day and night, such as the structured black top with emphasized shoulders as well as the rust-colored sleeveless wrap top. The slim printed leggings will look chic this fall when paired with a chunky knit sweater and the long black coat with embellishments is perfect for cool weather. Vosovic showed a strong first full collection with a clear vision and we look forward to seeing what is next for this young designer.

-Alexandra Perron 
               

Richard Chai Love
The Promenade
KCD

Grays & browns were the palette & slouchy & oversized was the proportion of choice at Richard Chai Love.  Never one to love the paper-bag waist, which inmyopinion is simply another word for oversized (aka “sloppy”) unless in thehands of a very deft designer.  With this collection, Mr. Chai demonstrates clearly that he has just such a deftness of touch.  This collection is, in a word, stunning.  With a play on proportion that is de rigueur for the season – slim & lean on the bottom with full & boxy on top – he began, but it wasn’t long (look #4 to be exact) before he broke out the look that has yet to be seen elsewhere, but looks so right that others of his ilk are certain to be left feeling that the look of the season is defined by Mr. Chai, leaving the rest to be simply interpreting.  In a color palette so restrained as to seem limiting, only 4 or 5 colors were used throughout, the collection defied the seeming restriction & never once had a dull moment.  The highest of his many, many high moments were without a doubt the afore mentioned slouchy pants from look #4 & the distressed pewter metallic sequin & embroidered pajama pant that made their way down the runway as the penultimate look to the finale.  Shall I repeat?  In a word – stunning.

-Scott French 

 

La Perla
Lehmann Maupin Gallery
Paula Rosado PR

Sweet & sexy.  La Perla’s latest installment was for every side of the lingerie wearing woman.  The collection was separated by three senses: 1. Seduction- inspired by “Film Noir” & the iconic woman of 1940’s Hollywood and the timeless art of seduction with black limited edition floral laser cuts; 2. Modern- this dynamic & metropolitan style reflects the classic La Perla feel.   3.  Comfort- designed for the woman who appreciates luxury & timeless casual elegance full of cashmere knitwear & microfiber.

-Meredith Garcia

 

Oumlil
640 West 28th Street
Communa-K

The Oumlil Menswear collection was shown in a wonderful Chelsea loft space surrounded by expansive views of the Hudson River at sunset.  The setting was beautiful.  Beautiful too were the clothes.  However, beauty alone does not a collection make.  Designer, Hisham Oumlil, obviously knows how to construct clothes.  Each & every piece of this collection was fit to a “T” & didn’t have a single quality flaw evident.  In the close-up setting of a small venue runway show, any quality flaw would have been immediately noticeable.  No such shortcomings were seen.  He did need to invest in a few lint brushes, however.   His color range was dead-on:  grays, black, navy, & royal blue as well as glazed finishes to create the occasional shine.  At issue with this collection is the fact that he chose to explore only one idea, an asymmetrical scalloped lapel.  It was novel & not seen before & looked best on the vest it was used on & as a pocket welt on a jacket.  However, such a miniscule detail is not enough to carry a full runway show.  By the time what seemed like the 10th suit with a crisp white shirt made its way down the runway, my seat mate turned to me & exclaimed, “Didn’t we already see that?” A runway is not a setting to explore an idea in its every possible incarnation, but rather a place to show a sampling of what you can do & entice the viewer to learn more in the showroom.  Using this rule, it would seem that this designer only had one thing to say.  I seriously doubt this to be the case.  I really wanted to see more, but didn’t.  Mr. Oumlil is obviously a very talented designer who has a great eye for the details (THE key ingredient in greatness… detail).  He just needs to develop this collection a lot more to make his runway showings worth the effort.

-Scott French 

Mara Hoffman
Open House Gallery
People’s Revolution

“Dark, mystical magic” was how Mara Hoffman described the inspiration behind her fall/winter collection shown at the Open House gallery in Soho. This was Hoffman’s first presentation, which she said was really like an art installation. Along with the presentation of the garments, Hoffman also debut an original film, “Hysterical Levitation.” Models stood atop clear boxes around the edge of the room with a live performance by Living Sacrifice. Hoffman said she dresses the eclectic, bold woman each season but last night she was dressing a “cosmic space warrior.” Tribal printed dresses and leggings stood out in the collection composed of long and short abstract printed dresses with cutout and zipper details, bright colored leggings and tops along with draped sweaters and tough jackets. Hoffman played with a variety of fabrics such as washed silks, printed chiffons, suede and velvet. The models sported silver glitter makeup which amped up the mystical, futuristic fantasy feeling of the collection.

-Alexandra Perron 

 

Helen Yarmak
The Crown Building
Blye Media Relations

Walking into Helen Yarmak’s showroom felt as if I was walking onto the scene of Project Runway.  Models scurried and sounds of sewing machines were heard, adding last minute touches before the models finally appeared on the runway.  However, we all know being on time is overrated and non-existent in this anticipating fashion driven world.  Fur and pearls are no longer just for an expensive night on the town; they are taking over the runway in many different forms, but Helen Yarmak should come to mind when any fur is sought after.  Luxurious furs endlessly began to enter onto the runway one after the other, each slightly different from the last. All the unique styles of furs; Peacoats, ponchos, and shrugs; covered the minimal spandex suit’s each model borrowed from Lady Gaga.  The color scheme consisted of brown, black, and a beautiful aqua paired among deep purple and metallic accessories.  Adding a 20’s styled plum vintage hat with the aqua furs and fierce metallic heels made a true fashion statement.  The stunning jeweled embellished fur is a must have this season.  Yarmak presented a collection of highest quality and almost each item can be transformed according to the customer’s wish.

-Jena Clem

 

Bespoken
Hosfelt Gallery
Williamson PR

The designers of hip British line Bespoken showed a cool and tailored fall collection at the Hosfelt Gallery amongst a video installation projected on the walls. The clothes were old school prep with a rebellious flair. A red and black checked double-breasted blazer and high collar leather jacket gave the collection a tough edge while the models in horn-rimmed glasses, tweed suits and tartan plaid ties evoked the prep school feeling. The collection was predominantly coats and jackets, which really is what the fall season is all about. The duo showed a good variety from a tan topcoat to an anorak and a utility jacket. The collection was full of updated versions of the classics: oxford shirts, blazers and utility trousers. The pieces will be perfect for layering in the upcoming season and the jackets are sure to become a staple in the closets of well-dressed men everywhere.

-Alexandra Perron 

 

Elene Cassis
The Bryant Park Hotel
In-House PR

Walking into the Loft on top of the Bryant Park Hotel I expected a little more than what Elene Cassis had to offer.  Having mannequins as models, I do not believe the workmanship Elene Cassis put into the dress was shown.  Looking as though I had walked into a White House Black Market, I was not surprised of the pieces being displayed.  Seeing the scoop neck tunic dress was disheartening because this is definitely one style I am ready to say good-bye to.  One piece that actually stood out was the long sleeved pleat dress, using Duchess Satin and Silk Chiffon fabrics.  I will have to give this new comer an “A” for effort, but the thought process was just not there.  Next season, it would be nice to see some of her own ideas, instead of the spin she puts on someone else’s design.

-Jena Clem

 

Keith Lissner
Ceco
In-House PR

There was a fashion feast at Keith Lissner as models posed around a perfectly set dining room table. All of the looks in the “Nomadic Divinity” collection will be perfect for a fall dinner party, with lace and sequins making an appearance. The collection was all things elegant and glamorous. Long dresses of lace and gold foil gowns were paired with layers of pearls and leopard print pumps. There was a bit of an updated renaissance feel to the looks seen in the sheer billowing tops and multicolored antique patchwork skirt and cape. Duchess satins, gold lace, brocades and chiffon were the main ingredients in the cocktail dresses, trousers and tailored jackets in the collection. Lissner presented 16 elegant looks that will standout at formal events this fall.

-Alexandra Perron 

 

Heart Truth
The Tent
HL Group

This seasons Red Dress Collection show was full of laughs and surprises from the celebrities on the catwalk.  The collection of dresses from a variety of designers aims to raise awareness about heart disease in women. Felicity Huffman wore a gorgeous gown by Oscar de la Renta and stopped mid-runway to plant a kiss on husband, William H. Macy. Real Housewife Bethenny Frankel showed off her baby bump in Isabella Oliver. Olympian Dara Torres strutted her stuff barefoot while wearing Rachel Roy. Jordin Sparks, Joan Collins, Elisabeth Hasselbeck, Estelle and others also hit the runway in red dresses from designers ranging from Marchesa to J.Crew Collection. Supermodel Heidi Klum closed the show wearing John Galliano.

-Alexandra Perron