New York Fashion Week:
Day #3
02.12.10-
Photos provided by FashionWirePress
Ecco Domani Breakfast
The Luxe Lab
DeVries PR
The winners of the 2010 Ecco Domani Fashion Fund were feted at Robert Verdi’s Luxe Lab event space & toasted (with orange & grapefruit juice) by a bevy of some of American fashion’s most celebrated names in all areas of the business. Among the notables were host & newly anointed “reality star” Mr. Verdi himself, as well as Marylou Luther (International Fashion Syndicate), Ruth Finley (Fashion Calendar), Margaret Hayes (FGI), Nicole Fischlis (Macy’s), Julie Gilhart (Barney’s), Ken Downing (Neiman Marcus), & previous Ecco Domani recipient Derek Lam. Each of the winners was given a plaque to commemorate the event & was asked to pose for a photo opp with Ms. Luther & Mr. Verdi. It was a festive start to what is sure to be a fashion week that these six talents will be hard pressed to ever repeat.
-Scott French
Ruffian
Exit Art
AO Productions
Ruffian’s Fall 2010 Prêt-à-Porter Big Bang collection hit almost every recurring trend this season’s runway had to offer- all the while- maintaining a fluid performance with depictions of the Cosmos in digitally printed charmeause & Starry Night boucles inspiration based on Van Gough’s epic painting. Creative directors Brian Wolk & Claude Morial executed an artistic thinking & wearable collection of navy wools; purple mohair; dress pleating & of course this season’s constant sequins. Leather in the form of trims, pants & inserts added a touch of contouring & silk charmeause gave way to a feminine resurgence of chic cocktail culture.
-Meredith Garcia
Doo.ri
Eyebeam
KCD
I have never made an announcement on the 2nd day of fashion week as strong as this, but I’m willing to go out on a limb this season & say: The Doo.ri Fall 2010 collection is certain to be the best of the week, hands down. This collection was a joy to watch unfold, the kind of collection that ups the ante with every look shown & delights to a level that once again renews the jaded observer’s belief in fashion. Doo.ri came to prominence on essentially a singular idea – it’s DNA if you will – that being the shirring & draping of silk matte jersey. Many would argue that it’s not possible to be a “Doo.ri” without a draped 
element. While a signature detail is the envy of most in her field, it can also prove more akin to a noose around the neck of a designer attempting to create newness each season. This season, as in others past, Doo.ri decided to push her vision into silhouettes that are not her comfort zone (Jackets, Pants & Coats). The difference this season is that she was successful to a degree not seen in the past. Every piece was, to be cliché, “Quintessential Doo.ri”.
Her jackets were the stand outs, offering wonderful updates on the boyfriend blazers that have been developing over the last few seasons on many collections. Doo.ri’s, however were somehow proportioned perfectly for the female form rather than the sloppy versions that other less adept designers have tried. Her signature draping & shirring was found everywhere, but looked best when emanating from asymmetrical slashed seams that were added into the pieces here & there & then draped around the body to disappear into another seam. The effect created was one of sashes that served to further soften these already perfectly feminine pieces.
The Doo.ri of seasons past was one of solid color upon solid color. Ms. Chung tentatively added prints this season – I say tentative, as some of them were so tonal that they seemed to be a mere suggestion rather than a full statement. The results, however, were not tentative, but rather made for some of the better pieces of the collection. But the prints went from great to sublime when they were over embroidered & beaded as they were in several of the more beautiful & special pieces. (Note to Ms. Chung: Do this more!).
I could go on & on, but I think the picture has been painted. When collections of this ilk are shown at such a caliber as this one, it is difficult to not want to extol the virtues & wax ad infinitum. Doo.ri Chung is a serious talent who has shown this season precisely why she is so deserving of the past awards she has received. To call what happened today @ Eyebeam a “show” would serve to cheapen & minimize its impact. “Shows” of this magnitude are moments to be relished & absorbed as they happen so rarely, but when they do, you know it. About Doo.ri Fall 2010, I know it.
-Scott French
Bensoni
La Venue
CM Media PR
Vintage, always means a little more when you know the story behind the piece of clothing or accessory. Inspired by the fashion forward girl, tailoring her grandmothers packed belongings from the attic, Benjamin Channing Clyburn and Sonia Yoon created an extraordinary, distinctive look. The fabrics playing a huge role on the runway were wool, brocade, silk and fur and they were adorned with florals, paisleys, plaids and checks, as well as Bensoni’s signature ruffles.
Although, the style on the runway was not very contemporary, mixing certain pieces will help modernize the vintage look if you wish to do so. The attention to detail on the colorful and unique coats was extravagant and well coordinated with the magnificent dresses. A burst of fresh air, the collection, had many vibrant colors and daring looks the designers absolutely pulled off. The looks were pleasing, vibrant and had definite sex appeal.
-Jena Clem
Michael Angel
The Salon
BPCM
Sitting front row at Michael Angel’s fall 2010 were Kelly Osbourne, her dog, Sean Lennon & his model girlfriend. A great deal of preshow adulation was focused on the obvious photo opp this gather of rock royalty’s 2nd generation & their significant others, however the real action was what was yet to come down the runway. This season, Mr. Angel focused on voluminous structure & juxtaposed it opposite drapey softness to create a look that seemed more sophisticated & accessible that some of his previous efforts which have slanted more towards futuristic than the traditional. The line notes (printed, I must point out, on the best quality paper I have ever seen used for runs of show… a VERY nice & telling touch) mentioned gothic stained glass inspirations, as well as the multilayered structural elements first employed by Madame Gres. Both were evident in this collection that ran the color gamut from blush to black & employed textures ranging from glossy lacquered lace to fuzzy alpaca, some of which were printed with digital printed patterns that are becoming a trademark of this talented designer. While some of the peplums were a bit much, the overall collection was incredibly alluring & has reached a level of accessibility that will certainly yield sales.
-Scott French
Risto
Metropolitan Pavilion
Nouveau PR
Hand-knits meet technology in Risto Bimbiloski’s Fall Winter 2010 Collection. Inspired by Nicola Sassoon, Risto imagined landscapes painted in basic computer pixels. He mixed naturals with synthetics, the mysterious with the scientific, and folk with electronic engineering. Techniques like quilting and hand knitting were pushed to exaggerated volumes and silhouettes. Bimbiloski has perfected seven eye-catching prints; each inspired by digital graphics and mixed to describe what he calls a “New New Age Silhouette.” Knits matched with orange, red, and yellow prints added color and texture to this seasons color palette. He was able to show the details of his knitting techniques through jumpsuits, dresses, capes and leggings. This economically friendly designer brought back a 90’s vibe with a technological twist making sure the collection was noticed.
-Jena Clem
Jason Wu
Chelsea, New York City
KCD
American fashion’s darling of the moment, Jason Wu, sent what appeared to be his doctoral dissertation in proportion down his runway this season & at times it worked & at times it didn’t. His opening montage was by far his most successful of the season, where he used a full over slightly slimmer bottoms. This collection took a serious turn towards the questionable in the seemingly endless parade of 1950’s starlet ball-gowns that had the most extreme crinoline supported skirts to be seen in some time. His fabrications were lovely, but the silhouettes were a bit too much to feel current. Mr. Wu is still a young designer with most of his career ahead of him. It’s difficult to remember this given the hype that his collections are met with since the Inauguration. When he hits, he really hits it. He had several this season. What is wonderful to watch with Mr. Wu is the way his collection is rapidly maturing out of a press frenzied necessity into a real collection deserving of the attention he is getting. I suspect he is up to the task.
-Scott French
Antonio Azzuolo
Jack Studios
Bradbury Lewis PR
A formation of cowboys walked the line at the Antonio Azzuolo fall 2010 menswear presentation. A modern silhouette of bespoke portions met with Johnny Cash coolness—Azzuolo topping it all off with what else but a cowboy hat on every model. The designer introduced slim and tailored silhouettes with rugged western nuances of decades past. Brightly knit sweaters with South American references only added to the all over retro vibe. Other highlights included the use of metallic silvers and golds seen in both neck and foot wear. An interesting blend of vintage elements paired with modern tailoring and colors was the result at Antonio Azzuolo’s autumn collection showing.
-Kai Baukol
Yigal Azrouël
The Promenade
Starworks
For the second season, Yigal Azrouël showed his men’s and women’s collections on one runway. The collection was urban-chic with a heavy menswear feel to both, which included a variety of textures and silhouettes. Menswear looks consisted of blazers with leather sleeves and leather-jersey blocked tops along with Fair Isle sweaters. Azrouël’s women’s collection featured a number of fantastic architectural jackets and dresses, including a jewel encrusted leather jacket and encrusted one shoulder cocktail dresses. Dresses have always been a staple in Azrouël’s past collections and it was no different this time around; a draped, one shoulder gray jersey dress had great movement on the runway and is sure to be a favorite amongst Yigal’s many fans. Pants were designed in a way that emphasized the curves of the body, with exaggerated hips. Suede and leather pleated carrot pants were another runway standout and promise to have a strong presence for the coming season.
-Alexandra Perron
Costello Tagliapietra
Milk Studios
Starworks
For the past two or three seasons, Costello Tagliapietra was not impressing me as it had when this adorable duo first began. Was it them? Was it me? Had I become jaded? Answers to these questions seem unimportant after tonight’s showing at Milk Studios. The “Costello” was back & it bought the “Tagliapietra” to boot! Wow! Stunningly draped dresses were coming down the runway faster than the viewer could properly appreciate. As soon as you began to understand the piece before you, another was arriving. The color palette was their usual mélange of dusty colors that don’t truly meet the requirements of any traditional color enough to deserve its name, thus colors like “Rose Brown” & “Lava”, “Flax” or “Dusk” was used. What colors are these? It doesn’t matter. Suffice it to say, all were beautiful. On the silhouette front, these garments were mostly variations on the shift dress but rarely did the front look like it belonged to the back of the dress. The fronts were by & large masterfully draped & tucked in the vernacular of the designers, however the backs were barely touched & in most cases not addressed at all. The result, which seemed odd at first glance actually worked to emphasize the front of the garment & add a bit of surprise factor to the observer for when the wearer turns around they are part of a moment rather than a continuation of a story already being told from behind.
-Scott French
Buckler
515 West 26th
Factory PR
True to its original aesthetic conception of English Bloke meets New Yorker, Buckler´s presentation was a hit: Great looking men standing in amazing looking outfits. With designs that are tailored, versatile, masculine and sexy, the fall/winter 2010 collection is contemporary and chic. The clothes are strong while construction and fit are cut to perfection. Vests, cardigans, and turtlenecks, mainly in light gray tones gave a cool vibe to an already cool venue and crowd.
There where points of interesting innovation on pants silhouettes. The blazers and more tailored garments were modern, but still traditional. Leather portfolios and backpacks where the key accessory to most of the looks giving way to a vintage vibe. Every piece in the room deserved a second look to appreciate the true intensive, modern and cool feel.
-Miri Schottlaender
Christian Siriano
The Promenade
Paul Wilmot Communications
In an obvious nod to the Hollywood of old, Christian Siriano presented a series of shiney, 1940’s inspired pieces that were heavier on the separates than in season’s past. Is he finally growing up & becoming a collection? Perhaps. However, the vision seemed overly restrained & lacked the joie de vivre that he has possessed ad infinitum in past showings. Still, there were some really wearable interpretations of “Siriano” in the sportswear offerings, but it wasn’t until the evening ensembles begin in look 34 of 36 that the designer seemed to hit his predictable stride. Yes, he hit his stride, but it didn’t meaningfully move his vision any further forward. Christian Siriano is the first legitimate talent that fashion reality TV has found & we are truly rooting for him to succeed in the non-scripted real world of fashion. This collection wasn’t bad; it just had a few mistakes in fit, a few mistakes in silhouette & a bit too much black. Come on Christian, it’s time to step up the plate & stop trying to be so tranny fabulous & really make it work.
-Scott French 
Jeremy Laing
Milk Studio
In-House PR
A natural and woodsy vibe echoed throughout the Jeremy Laing presentation set at Milk Studios. Laing layered asymmetrical knit separates over thin and gathered legs. Knotty oversized sweaters, organically hued leather dresses and jackets, treated wools and splashes of geometric prints all worked to form a collection that brought a whole new meaning to red riding hood; in fact, this collection in many ways combined the wolf with the fabled character in numerous looks and pieces. A major nod to the designer’s north woods roots, Laing used pelts of raccoon, beaver and even muskrat to provide his models with their huntress silhouettes. On trend, a wonderfully modern collection that stitches nature into multi-layered separates as seen in womenswear all over.
-Kai Baukol
Cynthia Rowley
Gotham Hall
LaForce + Stevens
Cynthia Rowley showed her normal fare of cute, cute & cuter dresses to a beyond capacity house. The most memorable looks were the ones that were ornamented with bundles of fringe cut to various lengths & then allowed to drape down the front to varying degrees. The technique was used to great success as well in vests & tops. The most interesting version was one that was draped in layers of fringe & then covered with a layer of sheer chiffon to create a built up, almost armor like effect.
-Scott French
Frank Tell
Milk Studio
Company Agenda
Frank Tell might just win the most humble award for this season. His talent is one that we are excited to follow here at TFL & believe he will become a darling of sorts within our given trade. In his forth collection showing Tell showed to a packed house his interpretation of futuristic Star Wars uniforms. Obviously one for science fiction, his theme was none too literal & instead brought us a charming collection of black & white staples. One trend that he hit upon was a cozy drape braided cream sweater that can be dressed up or dressed down- this was seen all over the catwalk this season, but Tell may have the strongest execution- his attention to detail was impeccable & his ability to design for a fashion conscious, but not fashion consumed woman is commendable.
-Meredith Garcia
Robert Geller
Exit Art
LaForce + Stevens
Carrying much of his spring into the fall, Robert Geller again produced a collection that nominates him as one of the most innovative and interesting menswear designers in New York. Striped pants and tops, tattered neck wraps and rugged leather accents were all over the Geller’s fall presentation. As seen in his spring collection, Geller again used a coolly toned pallet splashed with navy blues, violets and grays. The German born designer really seems to have captured a feeling of haunted alleys scattered in cold Berlin, yet brings the silhouette into today and is a collection that would be happily worn by any fashionisto, in any city. Highlights to note were the denim sleeveless trenches, the harem striped pants and the wonderfully bold fur stoles. Finally, what would a Geller runway be without a little shredded accessorizing as seen in his pocket squares or his bowed silk neck draperies, both warmly welcomed as a signature for the German New Yorker?
- Kai Baukol
Jenni Kayne
Industria Studios
BPCM
From the shirts to the shoes, everything about Jenni Kayne’s collection was just right for the fall/winter season. Kayne looked to equestrian culture to update her collection of urban sportswear. Kayne presented a fresh take on dressing for the season, as she moved away from a coat and jacket dominated collection. A leather shift dress and jodhpur shorts will make for easy, modish fall dressing. A sexy cutout dress was made for cool night out in fall and a flirty, pleated miniskirts paired perfectly with Kayne’s utility jacket for the best day to night look. Crisp white shirts found under a capelet coat and sleeveless blazer are going to be key for layering in the city and the color palette consisted of black, gray, rich mustard yellow, pine green with neutral accents and a pop of royal purple. Jenni Kayne has also been designing shoes since fall 2009 and corresponded her looks from this season with lace up ankle booties and two-tone heels.
-Alexandra Perron
Willow
Exit Art
Libby Hann PR
Kit Willow´s Fall 2010 collection appeared futuristic, but despite any controversy around the future or present state of this collection was in no way questioned. Women’s natural curves are accentuated by drapes, constructed figures and tailored outfits. All of which is used in a very innovative way. Huge shoulder padded dresses didn´t look at all like a bad 80´s flashback; on the contrary they looked very current.
Fabrics were also very appropriate- mainly stretch silk organza and fine tulle. There were sheer back details and laser cut digital prints that looked like henna tattoos on the nude base fabrics. Black and nude were constant with highlights of blood red and poison pink injected vibrancy to the pallet. Willow’s body hugging lines and choice of fabric created the illusion of a second skin that enhances the body shape and exhales femininity.
-Miri Schottlaender
Alexander Berardi
The Altman Building
MAO
Upper East Side designer Alexander Berardi presented a glamorous and elegant collection to a packed house at the Atlman Building. Berardi’s collection was full of clean lines with unique, playful detailing and luxe fabrics. The looks were classic yet youthful and included a swingy, sequin mini-dress, organza red floral print dress, tuxedo pants and polka dot shifts. Sexy, menswear inspired shirt-dresses and a pair of rose covered suspenders balanced out the collection while making it a strong candidate for flirty fall dressing.
- Alexandra Perron
Chadwick Bell
La Venue
LLR Consulting
Sophistication is one word that stands out whenthinking of Chadwick Bell’s latest collection. Classical music played in this downstairs bricked and wooden beamed presentation room. Having a very nude color palette, many will say his designs are very dreary, but he has allowed the client to create their own look this season. Inspired by Emmet Gowin’s aerial photographs, images of crop circles helped define the colors and shapes. Wanting the fabric to dominate, darts were placed to emphasize the body, but did not obstruct the bleak silhouettes and upward movement. Bell says his fall 2010 woman has a bit of drabness, a life of very full experience but she is tired. The layered styling was done to show an uncontrolled approach and ease to dressing. Although, the overall look is very plain, simple details created in the back of particular pieces were the necessary touch that kept Bell away from resembling a Roman robe. Very different from previous seasons, it will be interesting to see the response on this collection.
-Jena Clem
Odyn Vovk
54 Crosby Street
In-House PR
The “Three Fold Path,” a culmination of events happening simultaneously in the body, mind and essence, inspired Odyn Vovk’s collection for men and women. The garments were innovative and had a strong military meets utilitarian feel. Layering was a huge part of each look, with jackets, vests, hoodies, and tees that were paired with cropped denim, hand-dyed trousers and wool shorts. If a sporty and dark look is what you are looking for this fall, Odyn Vovk has nailed it.
- Alexandra Perron
Magalis Garcia
441 West 14th
Pichi Marketing
Just getting to the presentation was a Fashion worthy experience: It was next door to Alexander McQueen Meatpacking store, filled with flowers, candles and signs and even crying admirers staring at the blank window, definitely made you feel fashion was in the air. With that as the setup- Magalis Garcia Fall Winter 2010 collection was interesting. Volume was the distinctive sign of the designs and it went beyond the traditional construction, it was in a word- sculptural. Wool magenta fabric used for cocktail and evening dresses was a big surprise and proves that hot pink will definitely be in next season whether others agree or not.
-Miri Schottlaender
Nicole Miller
The Salon
In-House PR
Nicole Miller is in love with New York City this season & her collection became the palette for demonstrating her passion. This was a dark collection; at least 80% of the pieces were black, with the other 20% being a dark, moody crimson & an olive green. The normal signature prints that the Nicole Miller name immediately brings to mind were there but in a larger scale than normal. The best was a photo-real cityscape at night that was printed on a few fabrications. The predictable next step from a cityscape is graffiti & sure enough that’s where Ms. Miller went & it worked wonderfully well as the much needed dash of color, this one being predominantly red. The silhouettes were right in line for the season – close to the body on the under pieces with loose coats & sweaters. Also in the collection was the season’s requisite dose of asymmetry. Overall, Ms. Miller’s efforts were well timed, well executed & moved the brand even further forward.
-Scott French
Tim Hamilton
Milk Studios
In-House PR
The 80’s were calling at Milk Studios tonight at Tim Hamilton’s presentation. He staged it on 20 models standing in a central square pattern around an enormous Chinese style lantern. The music of Depeche Mode, New Order, Yaz, etc. boomed overhead. The clothing too was no less grounded in the era as the soundtrack. Tim Hamilton’s men looked in many cases as if they were stepping directly off the dance floors of the hallowed halls of clubdom circa 1986 – Danceteria, The World, The Saint, Palladium… I’m dating myself! Black, Gray, Stone, Royal Blue, with accents of Yellow & Red. While there were some great clothing pieces for sure (a printed t-shirt of what appeared to be David Bowie in his Ziggy Stardust days looked particularly right), it was the shoes that were the must-haves. They were what appeared to be Doc Marten’s covered in black caulking & then worked over with a putty knife to create the effect of the shoes being chiseled out of black stone or being sewn out of a chunk of black rubber. I certainly hope these are going to be for sales, as I am obsessed.
-Scott French
