New York Fashion Week:
Day #4
02.13.10-

Photos provided by FashionWirePress

Peter Som
Milk Studios 
KCD

Peter Som has seemingly emerged from the rocky road of his recent past with a renewed sense of confidence that has left me no choice but to apply a term to his latest collection that I never thought of in relation to his safe, albeit beautiful design sensibility – dare I say it…. “Edgy”.  This season, he continues down the path be began about 3 seasons ago where he crossed into the vintage arena for inspiration & put together a deeply color saturated collection of separates that had strong bohemian overtones.  This season, he added in more prints that in recent seasons & mixed them in some very unexpected ways to create the sole meaningful print story of the season that we’ve seen.  His best looks incorporated some dashes of fur for texture & drama & hit the models at that awkward, but incredibly cool (if done right) area a little below the knee & above the calf.  Add in a contrasting printed lining in some man-made green plaid & you’ve got the Peter Som look for Fall ’10.

-Scott French 

Georges Chakra
The Promenade
Deborah Hughes Inc

Always the showman, Georges Chakra gave us the perfect start to a Saturday morning.  His cocktail & evening wear have been seen on the red carpet most recently by singing super star Carrie Underwood.  The collection of an impressive 42 looks of one wow after the other after the other.  Models appeared to be dipped in liquid & topped with lace.  Dresses were dramatic & classic Chakra.  Dramatic collars were reversed & plunging often times with ornamental accents.  Is this necessarily a collection for the latest & passing by “IT” girl? Not really- Rather the established woman who doesn’t need to make a statement, but always will.
 
-Meredith Garcia

Twinkle by Wenlan
The Promenade
LaForce + Stevens

Twinkle’s collection told a story like no other this season.  The playfully gothic line consisted of fairytale inspirations.  The color palette careens from mossy, damp woodlands to the city’s un-caged neon lights.  Inky blues and royal purples were portrayed in the skinny pants and silk dresses with the exposed metallic zipper.  Other colors used in this magical collection were mustard, olive, gold, nude and black and confusion developed as Wenlan had shiny textures meeting matte finishes.  All of the various qualities forming in different geometrics kept this line bold and unique.  Knits also created beautiful silhouettes this season, sharp framing through piping created angular shapes and printed slim pants also took over the runway. 

Twinkle Jewels arrived in soft flaunting hardware of beads, chains and studs.  The weighted perception of the jewels were twisted and in constant contrast.  Wenlan paired her statement piece, a Bulldog leash necklace and bracelet, with many looks. Chokers, draped necklaces and chain belts also came out to play in Twinkles fairytale of a season.

-Jena Clem

 

Gant by Michael Bastian
Saint Anthony’s Gym
Gant In-House PR

Continuing his presence as the label’s helm, Michael Bastian chose to exude American sportswear in every sense of the word at the Gant Fall 2010 presentation. Set in a Soho gymnasium, the Gant models casually hung out on set in a fictitious locker-room setting while twirling their Lacrosse sticks back and forth (as if they had just rushed of the playing field). Lacrosse apparently played a huge role in the designer’s construction throughout the collection and works well to sustain the label’s overtly American style that is slimmed down with European tailoring. Models donned striped jersey polos, silk shorts and sporty tee-shirts. Not to be too athletically steered as to be confused with actual gym wear, Bastian transitioned the line to end in a very sophisticated note as models sported crisp navy sport coats, blaze orange trousers and tailored trenches. This athletic brute of young men exuded a youthful and very playful collection that is unapologetically preppy and is unmistakably American.  

-Kai Baukol

United Bamboo
The Altman Building
Company Agenda

This collection, inspired by aviation trailblazer Amelia Earhart, started out very dark with an all black grouping, but soon lightened up to embrace the season’s mid-range gray colorations in the label’s trademark demure with a touch of whimsy silhouettes.  Design collection leaders Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham were at their best this season when working with a very uncharacteristic looser drape, which they did in dresses, one-shoulder tops & skirts.  The boyfriend blazer worn as a dress also looked particularly right in their able hands.  The color range only strayed from the limited black & gray palette for one sort of odd gold look.  There was a lone print as well that was used on a blouse & one of the great drapey dresses of the season, but the balance of the patterns was achieved using texture & jacquards.  These are beautifully designed clothing whose only reference to aviation is the lofty fashion heights to which they exist.

-Scott French

Loden Dager
Audi Forum
In-House

E.T Marinetti´s “The Futurism Manifesto” introduced the Fall Loden Dager collection. At an upscale venue in an upscale Manhattan neighborhood, the crowd waited around the latest cars for the show to begin. With pedestrians that stopped by the windows and gazed in and a full house the designers managed to present 20 looks that were true to their style.
Among the highlights were striped shirts with matching ties and turtlenecks in all shapes, colors and uses (even presented under shirts). With most of the collection being in a neutral color pallet, a bright yellow suit provoked a gasp when it walked down the runway. A couple of orange and bright pink pieces functioned as accent colors while everything else consisted mostly of gray, blue, kaki or black. Blazers where a key component to the futuristic feel in this collection; with only two buttons and a perfect tailored fit, they introduced an innovative look giving a more relaxed feel and elegant appeal.
 
-Miri Schottlaender

 

Nicholas Clements-Lindsey
The Metropolitan Pavilion
KPR

Newcomer Nicholas Clements-Lindsey had the pleasure of showing his collection, but may still have some things to learn.  Without going out of the red, black and white color palette the looks began to become a bit repetitive and styles resembled 90’s day and evening wear.  He also coordinated derby hats with some of the different ensembles.  Each model had braids meeting the bouffant hair and perfectly layered make-up.  As an apprentice, I hope next season he will venture out and use more color and different fabrics.  The collection lacked variety and texture, but was a good start and look forward to seeing the progression in this novice’s career. 

-Jena Clem

 

Altuzzara
Milk Studios
In-House PR

SEXY!!! Having followed this young designer for a couple of seasons, I can confidently say that this collection was his strongest yet, not that he ever disappointed in past seasons.  Fall 2010 featured lots of fur and second-skin leather in the form of leave-nothing (or everything?)  to the imagination jumpsuits and long sleeved dresses with strategically positioned cut-outs.  Altuzarra knows a thing or two about tailoring and while it is a necessary quality for a young designer not many actually possess it.  The collection included gorgeous wool and goat hair coats with belts resulting in a structured sexy silhouette.  This Altuzarra girl could hit the streets of Paris and blend right in. I felt this collection to be very Parisian and even very Carine Roitfeld.  The Vogue editrix has shown her support for this young talent over the years and one can see why.  But that is not to say that America has not paid attention, this year alone Altuzarra was the recipient of two prestigious prizes: the Rising Star Award for Women's Apparel from Fashion Group International and the Ecco Domani Prize.  What next?  A CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund nomination perhaps?

-Miriam Driot

 

Callula Lillibelle
423 West 43rd
Deborah Hughes Inc.

Providing options for a chic complete wardrobe for the modern life, this new collection is one to watch.  The designers presented the idea of “desk to dinner” pieces for the real woman, are the strong combination of evening attire with ready to wear. What Melanie Fraser Hart and William Calvert offer is indulging and effortless collection. Complementary stretchy fabrics combined with amazing construction and finishes give pieces an incredible and flattering fit.  Every body shape will find an ally to look fabulous in this collection. All the wardrobe essentials where there, from the black dress to the pencil skirt, from the jacket to the cocktail dress, but with an added twist. Looks could be paired with motorcycle leather jackets for a casual day look and turned into an evening refined with a simple pair of stilettos-“Classy but with a naughty touch”. Retailing at affordable prices ($90 - $400) the label focuses on both the needs and desires of woman where style and comfort are paramount.  

-Miri Schottlaender 

 

Carlos Miele
The Promenade
In House PR

On a frigid Saturday morning in New York what could be better than a ray of Brazilian sunshine beaming down the runway?  Nothing really and watching the Carlos Miele Fall 2010 showing was an ideal way to kick off another busy day of fashion week happenings.  For Fall Miele thought of cooler climates and added fur vests and cozy sweaters.  A grey wool vest with silver fox applique worn over a beige knit sweater and light gold silk charmeuse fuxico mini skirt managed to convey his usual flair for mixing sexiness and style.  There were still plenty of his signature flowy gowns.  A body fitting black guipure lace and silk charmeuse asymmetric gown was paired with a black suede ankle boot with metallic leather strap detail and would feel right at home at one of New York's many fall charity galas.  A shorter version of the same black guipure lace was also featured and would be perfect for an after-work cocktail or industry event. While the collection managed to offer plenty of this town's beloved shade of black, it would not be a Miele collection without seeing either a blend of geometric prints or colorful combinations of bright solids as in a fuchsia, red and purple silk charmeuse asymmetric gown as well as a grouping of solid electric blue dresses.

-Miriam Driot

Zang Toi
Touch Lounge
The Berit Group

Each season, the night before his show, Zang Toi hosts what he calls his "lucky chicken dinner" at his studio.  The tradition goes back twenty years when Zang Toi was a youngdesigner and had entered the Mouton Cadet Young Designer Award Competition. Because he had no money at the time, he had KFC for dinner the night before with his twoassistants. The next day, he won the competition...and a new tradition was born!  Today the guests include his staff and close friends and the dinner takes place in his beautiful studio overlooking 57th street.  It was my first visit there and I was able to take a sneak peak at the collection.  While there were some pieces for his most extravagant customers there were also plenty of well tailored, classic pieces ranging from a charcoal cashwool twin set with mother of pearls beaded trim worn over skinny knit pants to a purple wool/rayon twin set with black beaded blossoms paired with a matching side slit pencil skirt.  The show opener was perfect for a younger clientele: a charcoal silk organza strapless mini dress encrusted with beaded blossoms.  Overall the collection was created with a broad customer base in mind.  Sadly, the venue where the show was held did not do the collection justice and I felt fortunate that I had been able to see the garments up close the night before.

-Miriam Driot

 

Gary Graham
Milk Studios
CM Media

Gary Graham’s fall collection was inspired by a range of sources, from the urban imagery of Bruce Davidson to ornamental Masonic sashes. Graham’s collection combined draping and architectural silhouettes along with unique prints and rich materials. Printed wool jacquard leggings were a standout and were paired with a knit cardigan and silk georgette top, a reoccurring trend on the runway this season.

-Alexandra Perron 

ADAM
The Promenade
BPCM

Comfort, cool, & crimson- who could ask for anything more...  Adam Lippes gave us bulky sweaters, long flowy dresses & lots of layering.  This collection flawlessly combines grandma chic & youthful style without looking like bad 90’s grunge.  Fabrics are rich with cable knits, mohair skirts, & jacquard knit dresses while lengths are floor length & pleated.  Lippes experimented with colors, textures, lightness & lines which were said to be inspired by a painting by Isca Greenfield-Sanders.  No matter where he got his motivation this season can be counted as a huge hit.  We are looking forward to seeing all shapes & sizes of women enjoying this latest collection from a man who started his career designing from the inside out. 

-Meredith Garcia

 

Vivienne Tam
Vivienne Tam Boutique
HL Group

If the success of a show is determined by the number of people that show up, Vivienne Tam´s presentation was by far a success. But if you ask me, it was way too crowded to be successful. You couldn’t even walk around the room to appreciate the garments because someone was constantly pushing you. Nonetheless, from what I was able to see I was impressed.

Inspired by the Chinese Zodiac, each of the pieces reflect one of the twelve animals. With an origami style, clean lines and amazing texture, most of the designs were refined and edgy. The detail of lace tights gave it a sexier twist and all the models donned red lips and a sleek simple pony tail (which according to the designer was to resemble the Horse in the Chinese Zodiac).

Pleats, floral appliqués, sequin, tulle overlay, knit appliqués, and feathers added texture to the lineup. Military belts and some military inspired jackets, gave a stronger edge to an otherwise very feminine collection.  The color pallet was mostly black, gray, some animal print, a touch of gold and of course some red. One of the pieces that stood out was a cream melton TIGER slashed funnel neck coat that was paired with the lace tights. Another amazingly constructed garment was the red silk gazar v neck RABBIT origami dress. Had there been a bit more space to look around, I may have something amazing to say about all of the designs, but overall this collection was Tam at her best.

-Miri Schottlaender

Elise Overland
Exit Art
Maguire Steele PR

If Elise Overland is influenced by any sort of inspiration, it would definitely have been rock n’roll.  A high powered runway shuffled out strong models that walked with attitude as they sported red hot dresses, cropped jackets and pencil skirts. Though her collection may have been bold and leather heavy (not surprising considering her rocker roots), it never once jumped from being a feminine collection. Overland seems to have married the idea of strong women who can look equally as soft in chiffon as they can in buttery thin leather. Overland, who didn’t steer from using silk, velvet or chiffon in her collection, chose to color her pieces in natural tones of gray, black and brown with splashes of firebrick orange and rusty red. Layered leather tops, structured skirts and dresses, and high collared jackets were repeated in many of the looks. A standout was Overland’s use of human hair accented as shoulder pads and once as a full on coat. Overall this was a wearable, daring collection that reflects the strength of a woman as soft and beautiful—and one that frees leather of its cold and stark reputation.

-Kai Baukol

 

Nima
Ceco Studios
RIO PR

Nima, a 2006 Parsons graduate, showed another stunning collection this season. The color palette was relatively neutral, with lots of ivory, camel and black but splashes of jewel tones such as sapphire and a few prints balanced out each of the looks. Nima played with interesting fabric combinations, incorporating a black latex wool jersey into a number of the looks as a trim to a skirt and a vest. This fabric was not only a unique texture but also had a bit of sheen to it, which drew your eye immediately to the garments that included it. Standout looks of the collection included a Finn raccoon fur trimmed dress in black latex wool jersey and a sapphire silk asymmetrical gown. Nima was able to combine unique fabrics along with interesting lines that were pleasing to the eye to create an elegant and wearable fall collection.

-Alexandra Perron 

 

Band of Outsiders
Milk Studio
Black Frame PR

We say this every season, but Scott Sternberg certainly knows how to put on a show, and not just any show, he loves to show children at play as installation pieces. Sternberg brought his collection off the sunny beach of Spring to a colder forest in the northern woods. Models looked every bit the devious players plagued by teen angst—most likely fed up with elder supervision. Models were adorned in separates of plaid prints, fleeced trousers, knit sweaters, navy cropped jackets and puffed coats. The hiking boots and fingerless gloves only added to the outdoorsy and sporty presentation. Sternberg, a native Californian, seems to find influence in the playfulness of life as an adolescent on either coast. Yet one should mention there is a clear nod to the late 70’s era for which Sternberg may have grown up in; perhaps the past few collections have actually been a window into the designer’s past. To note, Pink Floyd’s “The Wall” echoed throughout Milk’s ground floor studio delivering a very deliberate message that this was one class of kids who had two things to say: they loved to have fun and they certainly looked good as they did it. 

-Kai Baukol

 

Carlos Campos: Women
Ampersand
In-House PR

The latest collection by Carlos Campos was inspired by the “romanticism and sartorial flair of the Mexican mariachis.” His collection for women combined reinterpreted mariachi blouses along with leather jackets and a killer pair of studded shorts. Campos played up with lines of the shoulder with a Balmain-esque black dress featuring exaggerated, studded shoulders. The color palette was neutral, but included pops of lilac and blue seen in a printed dresses and high-waisted skirts.  Carlos Campos told a story through the garments in his fall collection and they will make perfect additions to your fashion story.

- Alexandra Perron 

Carlos Campos: Men
Ampersand
In-House PR

A small and modern collection that perfectly accented its female counterpart, Carlos Campos chose to embrace a slim silhouette to outfit his male models. Donned in separates, Campos’ models looked effortlessly sleek in their tailored pants, cropped jackets and crisp suits. Minimal in both looks and design, Campos chose pops of deep green and royal blue to diversify his collection. A few standouts to mention would be the houndstooth pea-coat, forest green slim trousers and a full leather ensemble that would bring a much more youthful sex appeal to any Harley driver.  

-Kai Baukol

 

Arise Magazine African Collective Part III
The Tent
Paul Wilmot Communications

The legendary Tent at Bryant Park was turned into a living African Landscape with an elaborated stage design and image projections for the Arise Magazine African Collective presentation. Three designers from different parts of Africa showcased each individual style and proposal for what will be their Fall Winter 2010 trend.

Black Coffee, designed by Jacques Van Der Watt and Danica Lepen from South Africa, chose a muted pallet for a full collection of extremely strong oversized silhouette coats. All the pieces were inspired by the traditional African masks and the idea of cubism. Loin Cloth and Ashes, by Tanzanian Anisa Mpungwe, presented a collection inspired from her father’s hometown. Structured monochromatic urban designs filled the runway. It was a youthful more easy to wear twist to the origami style that´s very popular in fashion nowadays. Bright blue and gold accessory detailed brightened up an otherwise mute pallet. Last, but not least was Deola Sagoe who received a standing ovation for her collection. This Nigerian designer got her inspiration from East African Maasai warriors and 18th Century European Military Uniforms. With structured silhouettes, a mix of fabrics and textures and lace embellishments and bead work she managed to pull off an astounding combination of femininity and sexy.

- Miri Schottlaender

Suno
Milk Studios
In-House PR

Fun. Flirty. Colorful. Youthful. These are few of the many words that describe the fabulous fall collection for Suno by designer Max Osterweis. A truly inspired collection, Suno featured pattern mixing in every color, which is no surprise coming from Osterweis, who spent a decade collecting textiles during visits to Kenya. This collection is for the adventurous girl who is not afraid to pull on something bright and exciting during the often dreary, fall/winter season.  Heavy Aztec influences inspired patterns on everything from beaded blazers to draped dresses. Ikat prints covered jackets, scarves, tees and skirts. Bright zigzag patterns were found on pleated skinny pants and a motorcycle jacket. Models wore shimmery make-up with hair that looked straight out of a Dr. Seuss story.  Favorite looks from the collection included a long blazer in floral zigzag mineral green print with black ruffled tiers and a to-die-for pair of beaded leggings. Stash that black and grey in the back of your closet this fall and invest in some serious fun with Suno.

-Alexandra Perron 

Parkchoonmoo
The Hudson Hotel
Shin Advisors

In a deep underground (3 floors to be exact) dark hall, Korean phenom Parchoonmoo staged her debut New York Runway show, where she showed a predictable, albeit not bad, women’s & men’s collection for Fall 2010.  The predictability factor is that so many designers from Asia have a dark, brooding vision of fashion where everything is black, oddly draped & lavishly merchandised to a point of near unwearability as shown.  What is great about these types of collections, however, is that if they are done well, which this one happens to be, the pieces can be extracted & combined in less overdone ways with the favorite basic pieces in one’s individual wardrobes to add some excitement.  The obsession this season for Parkchoonmoo is zippers.  She put them on everything in some very unexpected places &, if the seat favors are any indication, they are not always placed for function (more on those later).  The collection was wholly black & devoid of color except for two pieces at the beginning which injected a dash of Royal Blue, a color seen on most collections this season.  She also used various battings & interlinings to create a very lofty, light structural element to the pieces on both men & women that served to contort the body into various amorphous shapes – some cocoon-like, some very top heavy, others very bottom heavy – she did all of this without ever once making the clothing look overly weighty &/or burdensome, which is no small feat.  Speaking of burdensome, however, the editor gifts were very lovely & wonderfully packaged… but… we’re not sure what this “U-shaped-padded-black-with-zippers-everywhere-scarf-collar-vest” item is… please call me with directions.

-Scott French