New York Fashion Week:
Day #5
02.14.10-

Photos provided by FashionWirePress

Lela Rose
The Salon
Krupp PR

Texas design titan Lela Rose took us to the moon & back with her fall 2010 collection.  Inspiration from the Galapagos Islands provided the framework for the lunar landscape prints & 3D surface textures.  The non-too-literal collection could have been- well…. Out of this world had it not been for Rose’s experienced editing. She used natures various surface textures, draped & molded shapes recalling windblown eroded landscapes & pyrite inspired zippers highlighted materials like satellite jacquard, lagoon printed canvas, asteroid silk & moon rock embroidery. Colors of sulfur, mars red, mercury & cobalt ran constant through patterns of ivory constellation, moon rock tweed, & lagoon prints.  And it goes without mentioning the models wore Lela Rose for Payless shoes, which will count as the 13th collaborated collection.
 
-Meredith Garcia

Luca Luca
The Promenade 
Polly Ryerson PR

In his continuing effort to assert himself as the face behind the label that bears the founder’s name in duplicate, Raul Melgoza presented a collection that was a bit heavier on the sportswear than some previous offerings by the house.  At times, the collection seemed overly black, but upon closer inspection, what first appeared as simple black, actually had several moody, more subtle undertones – Navy, Brown & Eggplant being the most memorable among them.  There were a few misses for sure, but the hits were by and large more plentiful.  For a house known for its dressy separates & cocktail attire, it’s a bit of a surprise to find such appealing outerwear en-mass, but it was there for sure.  While it will be some time before this label will be known as “Raul Raul”, this season’s effort has moved Mr. Melgoza’s cause measurably forward.

-Scott French 

 

Catherine Malandrino
Chelsea Art Museum
BPCM

This season Malandrino returned to her favorite location, the Chelsea Museum of Art, and instead of a runway show set up a shop with a 37 look presentation.  Her display reflected the mix of edginess and femininity for which she is well-known and black was the color of choice for this season.  Fur was very much on display and fit right into the "Khan" theme. Models wore luxurious layers of Sardar Altay print chiffon pleated to Himalayan tiger fox wrap to Bhutan noir cord belts and Baruun noir distressed-leather double-platform boot. This collection is about toughness on the outside and softness on the inside with the multi layers and suppleness of the fabrics.

-Miriam Driot

Calvin Klein Men
CK Showspace, West 39th Street 
In-House PR

Black, Gray, Silver & Brownish Olive were the colors at Calvin Klein Men’s this season in what seems to represent a transition of sorts for the venerable house now under the Creative Direction of Italo Zucchelli.  Transitional in that there was no clear direction in silhouette, rather the entire range was shown from close to the body over slim trousers to medium loose proportion to what was the most directional piece in the entire show, the giant black woolen, cashmere coat in look #35.  This piece was so out of the box that it was almost alarming & in the end proved to be the most memorable.  Shine was the finish of choice & Mr. Zucchelli used it in throughout the collection on suitings, coatings & leathers.

-Scott French 
 

Lorick
Union Square Ballroom
In-House PR

A whimsical take on a young woman’s wardrobe, Abigail Lorick shows women how to have fun moving from the tea party to mid-afternoon cocktails without skipping a fashion beat. Mostly composed of knee-length frocks, Lorick focused on texture and beading to make her collection pop rather than color—with the exception of a few forest green prints and slate blue ensembles. Lorick’s beautifully accessorized looks proved to be an essential element in providing a signature style to clothes. Feathered head pieces, sheer blouses and metallic sheared tights also lifted Lorick’s collection to its fun and frilly status.  Any gossip girl on the New York scene would be perfectly set for a Saturday night out with the girls in any of these looks by Lorick. 

-Kai Baukol

Binetti
Exit Art 
K PR

In a return to the traditional runway format, Binetti showed a collection of seemingly random pieces in the artful loft space of Exit Art – Random in color, random in silhouette, even random in target market.  While the pieces were all attractive & looked very well constructed, it was a big departure from the sharply edited, cohesive showings of season’s past.  The one consistent attribute to this season was the quality of the garment s themselves.  Every one of these pieces looked very well constructed & the fabrications all had a richness to them that was immediately apparent.  On the silhouette front, as just mentioned, there was little cohesion.  A Crimson Red was the most memorable color.  Versions of Crimson were on most runways this season, it was this collection’s use of the color that wins the award for the best.

-Scott French 

 

VPL by Victoria Bartlett
Pier 59
Company Agenda

VPL stuck to her concept of making innerwear the outerwear for the fall season with pantless models and 12 finale looks that consisted of bras, underwear and full flesh-toned body suits. The bulk of the collection featured rich textures in a neutral palette of nudes, gray, black, white and metallics. The color-blocking trend that was on just about every spring runway appeared once again as VPL used it to create paneled bodysuits and dresses.  Draping was another huge element on this runway, with beautifully draped dresses and a draped sweater paired with a chic sequined bandeau bra top. The jewelry on the runway was by Lizzie Fortunato Jewels and Orly Genger by Jaclyn Mayer and had a strong tribal feel, with rope necklaces and belts. Victoria Bartlett paired her finale looks with chunky scarves and a braided hair corset by Shoplifter and Edda.

-Alexandra Perron 

 

Rebecca Taylor
The Salon
LaForce + Stevens

Impressive Rebecca Taylor did it again this season, holding true to her feminine, chic vision.  The detailed ruffle hem and bow print silk tee is the style fans look for each season butthey also saw a bit more this time around.  Faux fur coats and jackets brought a sexy side to the sweetly kittenish collection.  A silk tuxedo shirt paired nicely with olive felted wool or twill shorts and over the knee boots seemed to please the crowd.  Mixing the charming with the sexy stirred things up a bit; gray alligator silk tee and raw edged ruffle and pleated skirt will keep the boys wondering this season.  Still incorporating her classics, Taylor designed a cropped ribbed wool cardigan and an A-line skirt.  The wool pleated front trousers and charcoal silk blouse will score big at the office as well.  Celebrities also came out to see the newest collection; from Sophia Bush, Carmen Electra, Whitney Port to Ramona Singer, the press had a two for one deal.  Showing 34 ensembles, Rebecca Taylor stemmed off her basics and used the season to play and experiment in her designs. 

-Jena Clem

 

Simon Spurr
The Altman Building
Starworks NY

If anyone in men’s fashion can be given the title as Master of a modern Saville Row look, something oh so in and of the fashion times, it would be Simon Spurr. Coming out of the his bright spring collection, one that made any man yearn for a pair of Spurr’s peach colored trousers, comes a collection that is much cooler in color, yet retains much of what makes this designer great. Suits came in variety of cuts ranging from single breasted, double breasted and three piece (of course). His silhouette remains to be clean and close to the body. The collection’s pallet began with a series of blues in multiple shades—if not in a full suit it was popped in a scarf or pant. Spurr then moved to a very gray moment which evolved into large amounts of sleek leather separates, which remained constant throughout the remainder of the show. After a few pieces detailed in neutrally toned gingham made their appearance, Spurr finished his collection with strong collective of black and white suits, sweaters and trousers.  

-Kai Baukol

 

Araks
Industria Studios
CM Media

The spring collection by Araks Yeramyan had a clean and elegant feel while still managing to remain youthful. The looks offered a number of great separates that will be perfect in building a chic fall wardrobe. The sheer blouses paired with a wool trouser or underneath one of the many organza dresses will look great in the upcoming season. The popular leather pant made an appearance in the collection along with a gorgeous bomber jacket with a fox fur collar. The collection was done in navy, gray, and nude with a perfect pop of chartreuse.  Models sported sleek hair, dark purple lips and black combat boots.

- Alexandra Perron 

 

Blaise Kavanagh
320 West 37th
In-House PR

This show was something special to us.  Every once and a while we at TFL come across a basically unknown designer that with a little time & a little exposure will be nothing less than victorious.  This season this designer was Blaise Kavanagh.  Suggested by a friend we went to check out this Pratt alum who has been working for some time now at a MAJOR fashion house, but in the background as design director.  Breaking off to realize his own dream, Kavanagh gave us an installation of true promise & proportion.  His ability to design beyond his years was paramount & fabric choices were spot on for fall.  He designs not to shock, but rather to create ease & assurance when dressing.  His choices are not forced & can be added seamlessly into any woman’s wardrobe no matter age, size or personal style. 
We are excited to see where this career can & will go as it is only a matter of time before we are seeing the designs of Blaise Kavanagh all over the pages of taste making magazines & in some of 5th avenues most coveted stores.

-Meredith Garcia

Staerk
Milk Studios
Bradbury Lewis PR

The Staerk collection, shown along with Victor Glemaud was in a word, sexy. The predominantly black collection had an old Hollywood feel while also pulling in elements of menswear. Camilla Staerk was inspired by the artistic work of June Newton and Helmut Newton as she incorporated her signature leather and suede into a sexy, chic, downtown collection. Plunging necklines and open jackets were covered up with ties or tied at the waist with leather belts. Floor-length dresses featured leather shoulder detailing and long sleeves.

-Alexandra Perron 

Moncler Grenoble
Chelsea Golf Club 
CM Media PR

The European’s know how to put on a show, particularly one involving fashion & they continue to reinvent the delivery method in the process.  For a collection of cutting edge outerwear, it seems a bit obtuse to show it in an indoor setting under hot lights.  So felt Moncler Grenoble’s creative staff when they chose to stage their presentation outdoors on a pier jutting out into the Hudson River in February.  The showmanship doesn’t end there, as they weren’t content to just dress the models & have them stand around outdoors, but rather, they built a 4 story tall scaffold & placed 25 models on each level, clad in the company’s offerings, some of them identically outfitted for impact.  The theatrics weren’t nearly over... 

Spotlights were then used to light up the various vignettes on the 4 levels in rhythmic unison timed to grand classical musical overtures to create fashion’s answer to the dancing fountains of the Bellagio in Las Vegas.  The impact was unlike any I’ve ever seen & left even the most jaded observer in awe. 

The clothing, which seemed secondary to the staging, was actually so packed with detail that this presentation needed far longer than the scope of a few minutes’ time to process.  Close to the body, but yet filled with down, seems like an oxymoron, but not at the hands of this skilled design team.  Every look was colored in black from head to toe (I suspect for impact rather than reality).  The silhouettes were reminiscent of the early 1950’s France, as a nod to the era & locale of the company’s founding. 

Not to leave any detail undone, as we came back inside the Chelsea Golf Club from the blustery cold presentation, we were greeted by catering staff passing out Moncler Grenoble imprinted stainless steel thermos’ containing hot apple cider or hot chocolate to take away as a warming favor.  Greatness is in the details.

-Scott French