New York Fashion Week:
Day #6
02.15.10-
Photos provided by FashionWirePress
Monique Lhuillier
The Promenade
Starworks NY
Season after season we know what we are going to expect from being at a Monique Lhuillier show; nice dresses, dresses & more dresses. While I have enjoyed seasons past, this go round I was struck to the core- wishing & wanting a black tie affair to come my way just to have some sort of an excuse to wear just one of these dresses, dresses & yes more dresses! Giving credit to Chinese warriors & military suits, Lhuillier gave a non literal interpretation with strong silhouettes & a touch of edge. Gowns were not as “traditional” as many adorned long sleeves, high necklines, strong shoulders & short skirts. But as her story goes, Lhuillier gave us nothing but the best with very fitted column gowns made of chiffon, velvet, lace & tulle. The details on each dress was deserving of an Academy Award with its high drama; hand- stitched organza strips, floral embroideries & rose drapes just to name a few. Colors were dramatic & on par with the seasons demands of Crimson red, Nude & of course Black. With the Oscars just weeks away don’t be surprised to see some of these designs heading straight to the red carpet.
-Meredith Garcia
Richard Chai Men
Milk Studios
KCD
Richard Chai is feeling a little relaxed this season & he has the desire to share his relaxed attitude with both the men & women in his stable of fans. While there were a few body conscious offerings for those still seeking the close to the body feeling, each were countered with a few looser looks to give options & move the customers forward on the fashion spectrum. As with every other collection of the season, his color palette mostly centered around black & grays, but he injected enough dashes of Royal Blue or Red to keep the interest level piqued.
-Scott French
Katie Gallagher
The Soho Grand
In-House PR
Although, Katie Gallagher presented her Fall Winter 2010 collection at The Soho Grand, it was not “grand” enough. Guest weaved in between models as they tried to snap a photo or two without bumping into one another. It was hard to grasp the detail and concept of Gallagher’s designs because of the cluster of people. Her inspiration was in the heart of the woods and what she found there. A color palette of nudes and blacks were used to bring out Gallagher’s idea and banded jackets and vertical leggings added a dominating flair to the collection. Never mixing the two color schemes, a sharp eye had to determine exactly which model was wearing which look. The majority of the looks contained Mesh, Silk, Leather, and Lycra fabrics. The teased hair matched the exaggerated eye-liner on each model. Katie Gallagher constructed some very unique thoughts in the woods, if she happens to go exploring again, hopefully she will discover a more accommodating place to display them.
-Jena Clem
Ecliptica
Union Square Ballroom
Sway-PR
Puerto Rican sisters Norein & Michelle Otero showed a true fashion chronicle on the runway. Inspired by early 1900’s allure of Paris the Oters duo fused old & modern to create a fluid collection full of rich details & thought provoking glamour. Consisting of some ready to wear pieces the strength behind the collection was the impressive cocktail & evening storyline. Velvet & lace provide a mature elegance without appearing matron or dated. Silhouettes were young & details like side nude lace inserts kept it fresh. Colors were true to the season with mostly black & red with an occasional hint of eggplant. One detail that stayed true in almost every of the 10 looks was a “V” or deep opening on the back of blouses & dresses which may be a nice signature addition the line. It would have been easy for this collection to quickly appear cheap or junior had it not been for the design execution & fabric choices of the sisters.
-Meredith Garcia
Marc Jacobs
Downtown Lexington Avenue Armory
KCD
An uncharacteristically suit-clad Marc Jacobs took the final bow at his collection’s showing that seems to have grown up as much as the designer’s personal wardrobe. This collection reminded the audience of just what it was that got Mr. Jacobs to the lofty heights he has achieved. His recent collections have been crazy mixes of overly styled looks that had to be dissected & torn apart into separates to find the wearability factor. In this effort, Mr. Jacobs cut through all of the fashion for fashion’s sake & gave his flock precisely what they all end up wearing from him after their personal edits – great clothes, in luxurious fabrics, that don’t make the wearer into a statement.
This collection was purely wearable on every level. The collection never made a color statement except the few looks in golden yellow, with the balance being differing hues & values of grays & taupes. It was the simplicity of the mostly fit & flared silhouettes that wrote the story & when adding in the finest fabrics money can buy, the story was unable to be forgotten. The best example of the purity of silhouette combining with luxurious fabrics to achieve newness was in the oversized pea coat worn loosely open over a gray flannel a-line flared dress of Look #18. It is a very confident designer who can go to the extremes that Mr. Jacobs has in the past & counter it with such simplistic wearability as he did this season without any explanation whatsoever.
-Scott French
Thieves
Village Green
State PR
The “Conscience” collection, Thieves, was sent down the runway at the Village Green, where else? This up and coming condominium complex located in the East Village is trying to define responsible luxury living. Energy efficient amenities and sophisticated Wellness Center exemplifies “living better in every sense.” The venue went hand in hand with the Thieves inspiration. Individuals living in this busy world and having an extremely active lifestyle still find time to take care of their planet.
The Collection was not only green but Sonja den Elzen had each look collectively tell a story of the reincarnation of Earth’s elements. Each look wasdark and all models wore a scarf resembling a cocoon over their head to emphasize the re-establishments among the essentials of Earth through respectful action. The line was practically styled and rugged. The collection had a feeling of age, but is meant to last a lifetime. Perceptually speaking, the collection did not seem to be as important as the message trying to be sent. Sonja den Elzen felt there was no trend, intermingling from one moment to the next, one year to the next, timeless.
-Jena Clem
Perry Ellis
The Promenade
Laforce + Stevens
What can be said of such an established brand? Since 1980 the Perry Ellis label has been in the forefront of American menswear. This season with John Crocco still at the helm not much has changed. Crocco presented a salable collection of 42 looks that appear retail ready with only hints of new details. Such eye catching changes included silk blend sweaters, leather lapel coats & color blocked jackets. Charcoal, Navy, & Black act as the season’s base schemes with accents of Port Royal, Pewter Heather & Crimson. Trousers were held up by the comeback & Larry King favorite- suspenders & sweaters were youthful. Fits were true to Americano norm, but small imperfections were apparent in jacket sleeves with caved in fabrics near the shoulder pads (a fix that will surely be corrected in production).
It goes without mentioning that often times collections like Perry Ellis, which are known as a safe choice for retailers don’t provide an interesting performance on the catwalk, but Crocco effortlessly debunks this notion & provided a dichotomy to this collection safe, yet exciting.
-Meredith Garcia
Bibhu Mohapatra
NYC
Laura Henson Consulting
I discovered Bibhu Mohapatra last season at the behest of a friend. I fell in love with his collection then and when I when I saw his fall 2010 presentation I was literally blown away. It is obvious that he is talented and knows how to cut a garment, but this collection was so sophisticated and elegantly crafted that it could have been signed by any well known upscale designers who have been around for years. The twenty-six looks presented were inspired by two classic films Metropolis by Fritz Lang, and Il Conformista by Bernardo Bertolucci and conveyed an edgy yet romantic feel. The color palette included
black, emerald, taupe and paprika. The daywear was tailored and structured to flatter the feminine shape. Fur was also present either as an accent in a grey wool and beaver trimmed coat or as a standalone item such as a frosted taupe fox coat. For evening silk and satin were the fabrics of choice. My personal favorite was a taupe chiffon hand pleated gown. No doubt this young designer has a long
successful career ahead of him.
-Miriam Driot
Adrienne Vittadini
International Center of Photography
Company Agenda PR
Adrienne Vittadini once again chose a static presentation at the International Center for Photography to show its fall 2010 collection. Thankfully, the collection proved far fresher than the venue & they showed an incredibly beautiful assortment of 24 looks that basically encompassed 3 color stories. A common theme that ran throughout was a modified tiger print that resembled a watercolored interpretation of a tiger rather than a literal interpretation. It was shown in several colorways served as the fashion anchor of sorts for the collection. The predominant colors were Camel, Gray (some with aubergine undertones), Black, Navy, Purple & Brown. On the silhouette & design side, the recurring themes were repeated interpretations of the tunic that seems to be appearing on most runways this season, knitwear (of course) & a bit of whimsy, manifested via a few hints of deconstruction, pailette covered skirts, as well as two knit shift dresses that had 4 trompe l’oeil pockets stitched down using cream contrasting yarn. When taken as a whole, this was one of the most beautiful collections in its category that this observer has seen in some time.
-Scott French
A D’etacher
The Altman Building
Company Agenda PR
Creating a character known as “Lady Redneck”, Mona Kawalska sent plaids and generously sized tops down the runway. Far from the concept she was going with, A D’etacher created a collection different from the normality’s you tend to see ladies wearing uptown. Navy, Camel, and pale pink were the colors chosen to portray the line’s inspiration. Thermal socks were worn in almost every look with suede boots or Mary Janes. The silhouette will not compliment every woman, as the clothes were voluminous but styled nicely. Woolwich and silk were the fabrics, while a popular basket-weave print brought the “redneck” into the mix as the silk ink had a complete look of sophistication. Gathering more of a downtown feeling versus a country look, A D’etacher created both staple and fun pieces to last throughout the season.
-Jena Clem
General Idea
Exit Art
Williamson PR
The General Idea menswear collection, designed by Bumsuk Choi, combined edgy jackets and structured coats with loose knits and jersey turtlenecks. The collection featured double-layered jackets with zipper details and high collars along with loose, fishnet knit sweaters layered over cotton tees. Wool shorts and distressed denim were the runway staples. The look was deconstructed yet architectural with a military edge. The detail put into the coats on the runway are going to make them coveted by men and women looking for fashionable outerwear this season.
- Alexandra Perron
Jill Stuart
Astor Hall, NY Public Library
Alison Brod PR
Jill Stuart staged a show of grand proportions in the New York Public Library’s Astor Hall to a packed house of devoted fans that included several bold-faced names to the delight of an overly excited pit of paparazzi. When the preshow antics were complete & the clothing began to walk, it proved to be worth the wait. The series of side draped skirts & dresses that began the procession, all topped with military inspired jackets & wide belts akin to ammo belts, melded together to create a look that was more safari than infantry. Her take on proportion was applied most appealingly to several versions of the classic Pea Coat, all of which looked particularly right. The color range was Black, Dark Olive, Red, Purple, Cream & a very strange dash of Teal towards the end. There were several patterns as well, including a very darkly colored version of a camouflage that was wisely used as an element of design rather than as full garments, as well as Black Watch Tartan Plaid that was draped on the bias in several very flirty pieces, most successfully in a micro mini dress that was sure to please most of the audience & will undoubtedly be in many of their Holiday wardrobes come December. Ms. Stuart knows her audience well.
-Scott French
Barbara Tfank
Milk Studios
Paul Wilmot Communications
With the gorgeous skyline as her backdrop, the mood was set for Barbara Tfank. For years Tfank has included Bianchini-Ferier fabrics in her collections but this season had the pleasure of designing her own textiles. Inspired by Raoul Dufy, she offers a handful of floral designs by the whimsical motifs of the Fauvist painter. The sumptuous colors and sensuous floating lines call out for clothing of ease and comfortable loveliness. Wanting to keep glamorously warm this season, Tfank highlights the tucked-bodice coat with a Saga blue fox collar in a dove gray Guigou wool. A charming knitted wool three-quarter swing jacket in teal black and white with grosgrain piping in multi-colored knit is perfect for any stylish woman. Whether you are dressing for a cocktail party of wedding, the party dresses are suitable for any occasion. The luxuriously textured velvet and taffeta banded black duchess satin dress, one a slim cover with a crisscrossed bodice and the other with a playful pleated full skirt is sophisticated and elegant. This effortlessly beautiful collection is not only pleasing to the eye but full of wit and whimsy.
-Jena Clem
