New York Fashion Week:
Day #7
02.16.10-

Photos provided by FashionWirePress

Thuy
The Salon
Company Agenda

Thuy Diep presented a fun, flirty and colorful collection for the fall season at the Bryant Park Salon. The collection featured a variety of colors; from deep purple and red color blocked dresses with fur sleeves to metallic skirts and a vibrant beetle pattern printed silk. Thuy was not afraid to use a variety of prints, from the above mentioned beetle print to a black and white leopard print and a variety of soft plaids. Cool jackets featured layers of fabrics and were often paired with high-waisted skirts. The standout look from the collection was the embellished feather skirt, a black skirt with peacock feather detailing. The skirt had a very handmade- craft feel to it and was paired with a beautiful sleeveless yellow top and elbow length fur sleeves. The unique combinations of patterns and fabrics made the Thuy collection intriguing while remaining wearable. Fill your wardrobe with these bright, flirty pieces this fall and your look will turn heads.

-Alexandra Perron 

Rodarte
Chelsea, New York City
Black Frame

Rodarte is an acquired taste & one that I don’t think I will ever truly acquire.  After viewing one of the Mulleavy sister’s collections & hearing the fashionable throngs praise their efforts to such a degree as to be nearly elevated to the level of worship, I’m always left asking myself is there a drug in the air to which I am immune?  This season’s collection was no different.  No different in the aesthetic, no different in the audience’s reaction & certainly no different in my feeling of wonderment as to what I’m missing.  This collection was another of their now trademark efforts of mixing & matching a mélange of fabrics together on a garment & then twisting, tying, tacking a piece here, a piece there to create what some would call a garment, but I choose to call it a “museum piece”.  The theme of this season was Navajo Indian blankets & a few iconic prints could be found peppered throughout to not allow the viewer to forget from whence these “pieces” were hewn.  There was a very lovely brown shawl collar sweater at the beginning that piqued my interest, & a few lovely cream looks at the end that were “alternative bride” in feel, but overall, I once again was left confused while the others were left in awe.

-Scott French 

Matthew Ames
Milk Studios
BPCM

Proportion & simplicity define Matthew Ames in general & this season was no different.  His aesthetic strips away all embellishment & focuses solely on clean lines & form.  Ames focus is on the essential components of a wardrobe: jackets, trousers, & shirts; nothing more- nothing less (well an occasional shirt dress or skirt).  True to his pallet, Ames presented looks in heather gray & camel, but added a surprising touch of pastels – an unlikely fall color- which the designer said was to reflect the softness of his fabrics.  For this collection the strength lay in the quality of luxury fabrics like cashmeres, silks, & leathers.  It is no wonder that Matthew Ames has found success with his namesake collection because as anyone who values strong staple pieces knows that you need to look for timeless styles with strong & durable craftsmanship & Ames embodies both & much more.  

-Meredith Garcia

Dennis Basso
The Promenade
BPCM

There is always an upbeat atmosphere at a Dennis Basso show.  Perhaps it has to do with the presence of his many customers in the audience; one can feel that they cannot wait to see what is going to come down the runway.  Well I'll bet they enjoyed every single one of the 36 looks that were featured this season.  The collection was full on sexy and luxurious.  Highlights included a hand painted black velvet chinchilla coat worn over a black sheer wool top and black wool knit skirt; an over-the-top aubergine alligator and fox coat paired with a wool knit skirt and top in the same shade; an evergreen chinchilla and fox coat; an evergreen ermine and sable vest topping a wool knit draped gown; lastly a natural cross-fox coat with net matched with a charcoal wool knit skirt and black wool knit top.  For evening a to-die-for black embroidered lace gown with gunmetal fox and alligator sleeve. Basso proved once again why he is #1 when it comes to fur.

-Miriam Driot

Kim Kardashian for Bebe
Studio 37
A-List Communications

Studio 37 was packed for the launch of the Kardashian sister’s collection for Bebe. The line was a mix of sporty separates and club-wear. Silhouettes were tight with jersey dresses and skinny jeans, mixed in with a leather cropped jacket and vest and a high-waisted leather skirt. The color palette consisted of gray and black but also included pops of fuchsia and army green. All of the looks fit not only the current aesthetic of the Bebe shopper, but also reflected the personalities of the Kardashian sisters.

- Alexandra Perron 

Badgley Mischka
The Tent
In-House PR

The duo, known for their knock-out evening dresses, managed once again to charm us with their usual mix of glamorous gowns in gold Georgette and nude/blush organza peony.  The Badgley Mischka collection also featured a couple of short sequined dresses that were a bit of a departure from their usual sophisticated sensibility.  Somehow they felt more Vegas than Hollywood.  The show was split into two collections, the second, reserved for the Mark & James label, a more affordably priced selection of daywear.  Featuring 44 looks the secondary label had elements of a faux fur sequined wool vest, lots of well-tailored separates and a couple of evening options such as a blush chiffon lame dress worn with a cream faux fur sequined shrug and a blush chiffon tunic worn with cream suede pants and layered with a cream faux fur sequin jacket.

-Miriam Driot

Pamella Roland
The Salon
Alison Brod PR

Classic Venetian glamour was the inspiration behind Pamella Roland’s fall collection. It was characteristic Roland glamour mixed in with edgy silhouettes and a sleek modern edge. Jewel toned separates and dresses dominated the collection along with a variety of hairpieces including tiny Venetian masks and a white fur trimmed bomber hats. Asymmetrical cut cocktail dresses and fur-trimmed jackets kept things elegant and on trend. You could hear ‘oohs’ and ‘ahhs’ coming from guests as each of the final looks, mostly floor length gowns, had their turn on the runway. Roland closed her collection with a stunning halter-style wedding gown with a long train of white feathers.

-Alexandra Perron 

 

Christian Cota
The Metropolian Pavillion
Linda Gaunt Communicaitions

I discovered Christian Cota several years ago when he was just starting out.  His star has definitely risen since then and he can now be found in some of the most coveted stores the U.S has to offer.  His fall 2010 collection was inspired by Cubism giving his collection a more downtown and overall edgier feel than in past seasons.  Draping was a big part of his process in putting this collection together.   The looks ranged from short sexy day-into-evening dresses to tailored separates and sumptuous evening.  The colors were blended on a black background accentuating the structured shapes of the garments and all his models wore a similar wig, thereby not distracting the eye from the clothes. The evening presentation reached an all time high when Ms. Anna Wintour came by to have a few words with the young designer.

-Miriam Driot

Max Azria
The Tent
In-House PR

Minimalism was at the heart of the latest Max Azria collection. Lubov and Max Azria created architectural looks that still had soft lines and an element of deconstruction. In a neutral with gray and black, beautifully draped dresses with mesh panels walked the runway. Many of the looks featured folds of fabric and loose pieces falling down the backs of the sophisticated shifts. Leather and wool were paired together to create chic separates, with a leather asymmetrical sleeved dress being a standout on the runway. Cocoon shaped jackets with clean lines complimented the flowing dresses and sleek leather pieces. The collection felt a little off at the end with a series of Hervé Léger style bandage dresses. These tight fitting dresses with beaded panels did not seem at home with the rest of the beautiful, minimal, flowing looks.

-Alexandra Perron 

Tibi
The Promenade
In-House PR

Napoleon and Josephine were the inspiration behind Amy Smilovic’s collection for Tibi. The assortment showcased a variety of opposites, from masculine and feminine to draping paired with structure. Napoleon met Josephine in looks consisting of floral prints and tweed menswear trousers and a flirty blouse with a bow at the neck was paired with a structured plaid jacket and tweed cropped trouser. Strapless dresses were worn over long sleeved jersey tees and chic leather shorts were paired with a soft, peach blouse and heather gray tights. Smilovic did a great job of delivering a variety of looks without straying from a central theme and aesthetic. Pops of color, sequins, ruffles and bows made this collection feminine and flirty while still being anchored by the use of tweeds and structured, military jackets. Chic, flowing floor length dresses were done in rich colors with clean lines and also in sequins and beads. A gorgeous fur jacket was paired with a beaded top and cropped trousers for an effortless city look.

-Alexandra Perron 

 

Tahari
The Salon
In House PR

The working girl's perfect wardrobe. Tahari is known for clothes that one can depend on to go to the office looking stylish and put together. The Fall collection was right on target with beautifully tailored coats, sexy-yet-work-appropriate dresses, slouchy knits and classic separates.  The colors were overall earthy with lots of browns and grays as well as New York friendly black, but offered a pop of color here and there such as a red sleeveless sheath or a cream wool peacoat. The show featured the women and men's collections in a presentation at Bryant Park.  The mostly black men's collection featured all the basics a man could want from coats to slim trousers, jackets, shirts and ties.

-Miriam Driot

Toni Francesc
The Salon
People’s Revolution

Toni Francesc’s fall collection was based on a metaphor relating to man and machine. Francesc combined man and technology in his androgynous looks for the season. A palette of rust along with dark grays and black helped to reiterate the industrial element of the collection. Emphasized throughout the looks were the lines of the shoulders and the hips, which gave the garments a very angular look. Models walked the runway in futuristic make up and asymmetrical bobs which made the all over look of the presentation perfect. The futuristic styling was enhanced with the use of computer boards on the outside of handbags, on belts and pieces used as necklaces. A gorgeous cape coat with zippered arm holes is a must for the season along with a rust colored, double breasted coat with shoulder detailing which will look stunning against the changing colors this fall. Toni Francesc’s collection was strong, sleek and sexy, perfect for making a statement.

-Alexandra Perron 

 

Temperley London
Milk Studios
Starworks NY

Walking into the Temperley London presentation- I have to admit I was confused.  The installation was a work of art in and of itself with vignettes of clothing in front of corresponding images of women wearing the garment.  A nod to 70’s Britain of sorts.  After further investigation- it all began to make sense.  Alice Temperely teamed up with photographer Adam Whitehead to re-interpreted works from the late Norman Parkinson( whom she recently viewed his prints that had been hidden away in a private archive until his death) of his striking shots featuring 16 modern British icons- hence the title of her show “True British”. 

Subjects included women like Annie Lenox, Liberty Ross & Sophie Dahl- the result yielded in printed life size images on canvas & then hand-embroidered & embellished with the same techniques that Temperley used in her collection pieces.  The final result was a three dimensional representation of image & garment.  In my opinion genius, but some were still left baffled & not too impressed.  Just like art- Alice Temperley’s fall collection was subjective & in the eye & mind of the beholder.

-Meredith Garcia

WUYORK
Spencer Brownstone Gallery
In-House PR

WuYork is not only a designer but an artist as well and the Spencer Brownstone Gallery was the perfect venue for his presentation.  Walking in, you are taken aback by the four men painted completely black with nothing but a tailored suit jacket and pant.  Each model wore a bow in a different place of the body; around the neck, wrist, waist and one even over the eyes.  In the center was a female in a suit jacket and skirt also painted from head to toe wearing a bow. 

Alongside, the walls of the gallery were display cases with 7-9 live butterflies surrounding different color bows and birch and ash wood veneer layered sculpted 33” squares being displayed on the walls.  Layers of silk and satin ribbons are punctuated by a raw edge, gunmetal studs, and black leather.  This unexpected difference defined WUYORK’s premiere collection.  Two ideas presumably at odds, coming together to form something entirely new was strikingly effortless. He transformed and elevated the bowtie into wearable art. Ultimate pieces of chic embellishment for the neck, around the waist, on a lapel, or intertwined in the hair showing that he bowties can be worn by both men and women. 

-Jena Clem

Boudior D’Huitres
Exit Art 
Edite Showroom

When the lights finally went down on the pre-show set & out stepped two opera singers in full costume acting out a tragic (I believe) aria from an opera of unknown title (at least to my untrained ears), my level of intrigue definitely was heightened.  I’ve never been courted by an opera on the runway before, so how could I not at the very least sit a little straighter in my chair & get ready for the dramatic collection that was sure to follow this very loud, robust series of “do-ra-mi’s”?  Well, the opera ended & the clothing began & that’s when I realized the tragedy that the singers were wailing about was the collection being shown.  This collection was a mess.  It was over wrought with detail, cheaply fabricated & had so much going on that it was more typical of the level of work of a “C” level student.  It seemed that the designer was attempting to get every idea she had out on the runway & then add enough pearls to cause an oyster to blush, rather than show a well hewn, edited version of her vision that would tell a strong story & leave us wanting more.  The problem was with this collection, I didn’t want the first piece, so the effort would have been in vain.  The only piece that had merit was a cream mohair lace cocktail mini dress that was very strong for sure, but not nearly strong enough to pull the collection from the bottom of the fashion pool.  Not even the true fashion greats could have managed a single piece to achieve such a task.  This is sad, since last season we found this collection to be a strong one & even ran an image of the presentation as a cover.

-Scott French