New York Fashion Week:
Day #8
02.17.10-

Photos provided by FashionWirePress

Oscar de la Renta
583 Park Ave
Paul Wilmot Communications

Thank Mr. de la Renta for unapologetic luxury and if you have decided to look on the bright side of 2010 then his fall show was the right place to be!  This beautifully turned out collection had everything one would expect from Mr. de la Renta. For daywear the options ranged from an understated elegant Orchid double face wool crepe dress worn with an anthracite leather belt to a more ornate emerald astrakhan printed silk chiffon blouse matched with an emerald tinted tweak jacket and a navy tinted tweed embroidered skirt.  A luxurious black wool double face wool crepe embroidered coat with orchid black fox trim came down the runway topping an antique gold textured lame embroidered dress.   The coat, one of my favorite piece by Mr. de la Renta was- well-  "very Oscar" but very versatile as it can be worn in a very modern way with jeans and a t-shirt to brunch on the weekend. The evening dresses were simply gorgeous and award nominated actresses would do well to take a look at the gray silk organza embroidered gown worn with a gray embroidered tassel belt or, for the more daring, the black silk georgette embroidered gown with a plunging neckline that can be hidden under a silver fox stole.  In my opinion, and providing one has the budget, this collection has a broad appeal and can easily cater to a very diverse clientele...not just the Upper East Side ladies.  After all Mr. de la Renta designs to make women look beautiful and we should all appreciate that!

-Miriam Driot

Nanette Lepore
The Promenade 
Linda Gaunt Communications

In what was one of the most packed houses of fashion week, Nanette Lepore showed her Fall 2010 collection, which was heavy on her signature references, but altogether new.  This season, her trademark vintage references came in the colors used rather than in silhouette.  Her palette was rich & saturated in colors like Cherise, Copper, Gold, Navy, Plum & Olive & the fabrics were equally rich, with the most noteworthy textures being a series of draped velvet pieces that closed the show.  These dresses looked like liquid as they swathed the body in some unexpected manners for Ms. Lepore, who is usually more associated with structural, make that “pattern made”, design elements.  This collection was a great step forward for Ms. Lepore & is sure to delight her devoted fans & build new ones to boot.

-Scott French 

Douglas Hannant
The Kaye Theatre
In-House PR

Douglas Hannant is always a show that entertains & is one of the only shows in the New York scene that is better attended by actual clients than editors.  Hannant knows exactly how to get his Park Avenue lady ready & wanting more.  To the beats of Blondie’s Rapture this season we were on cloud nine with his fun choreographed spray painted collection.  The society designer brought together 41 looks that were one better than the next with a wide range of wardrobe choices from the ideal black wide-leg suit to evening gowns fit for a black tie affair.  Never one to shy from fur- Hannant used silver fox trim, ostrich feathers, python skins, & mink cocoons thought this season’s line-up.  Without a doubt the most inspiring looks was the culmination of the theme with hand-painted gowns that were masterpieces in & of themselves, creating an entire world on a simple column gown.

-Meredith Garcia

Shang-hai Tang
Madison Avenue Boutique
LaForce + Stevens

The latest in wares were on display at an intimate cocktail party held in the Madison Avenue flagship location of this Hong Kong based Chinese themed store.  Lavish jacquards, mostly in silk made up the bulk of the clothing for both men & women, most had a Chinese slant to them (i.e. Mao jackets in every possible permeation), & all were impeccably finished, both inside & out.  If you cannot find a style to suit off the rack, there’s a full assortment of luxurious fabrics in the back of the store to be tailored to meet your every need.  The strongest items on display, however, were the accessories & homeware.  Standouts here were a series of vases, lacquered plates & boxes with a Warhol-esque portrait of a Chinese figure on them as well as a canvas weekend bag silk screened with vintage photos of Ancient Peking street scenes.  Fun.

-Scott French 

Milly
The Promenade
LaForce + Stevens

Finally- Color!  Michelle Smith utilized her collaboration with HUE legwear to express her desire for vibrance & French inspired chic.  Blending bold colors of crimson, pink, navy & ivory with rich fabrics gave way to a classic, yet updated city girl.  Hem lines were short & sassy; prints were mixed with stripes & checks. Another major component this season was the presence of outwear; ranging from a cropped fur trimmed toggle coat to collarless Italian tweeds to traditional peacoats- girls will be braving the cold crisp fall air in style.  Always a big hit within the contemporary market, this is a complete collection with much retail appeal & will be surely seen hanging in a number of windows & strolling on a number of sidewalks in the coming season.

-Meredith Garcia

 

Peter Hidalgo
FGI Headquarters
In House PR

New York Fashion Week offers a great opportunity to discover a new collection or unsung talent whose presence in this industry deserves everyone's attention.  Peter Hidalgo is just such talent and his collection is one of quiet luxury and impeccable tailoring. I cannot think of a woman who would not want to wear his clothes.  They manage to always be appropriate yet sexy in a very elegant way by embracing a woman's body.  Between beautiful sheaths in black wool or nude leather, strapless cocktail dresses, long flowy evening gowns in silk charmeuse and structured coats, his Fall collection would satisfy the most discerning customer.  This is definitely a talent to keep watching for seasons to come.

-Miriam Driot

 

Proenza Schouler
Milk Studios 
PR Consulting

Proenza Schouler has seemed to be searching in recent seasons & in doing so have found a new comfort zone in the uber short, almost babydoll feeling dress done in super saturated colorations.  Elements of this design duo’s early signatures also appeared in some unlikely places like the graphic black & white bustiers being interpreted into a series of pants & skirts that had Jackson Pollack-esque white dribbles all over a black ground, or the extremely round necklines of their trademark coats being applied in giant proportions on a toggle closure pea coat.  These references served to ground this collection in the familiar without once pulling it backwards or giving the impression of a simple rehash.  The color story was predominantly black as a base with color being used as accents in fur collars in navy or purple, or navy top pieces layered in over black & white underpinnings.  The “Proenza” of old has met the “Proenza” of new & they are friends for sure.

-Scott French