New York Fashion Week:
Day #9
02.18.10-

Photos provided by FashionWirePress

Davidelfin
The Salon 
People’s Revolution

Madrillenian & recent reality TV “star”, David Delfin, moved his show to the smallest Tent for this season & as a result, created an audience experience more akin to a sardine can than a runway show.  But all was to be forgiven once the fashions began walking.  From a cloud of smoke, the models emerged from a backstage all painted black.  The first look out was monochromatic gold & instantly left me with a smile on my face, anticipating a simple recolored version of last season’s surgical scrub green monochromatic statement.  It was look 2 however, when he set the record straight that this was not going to be another statement like spring 2010, when he sent out a black & white & gold ensemble & never looked back.  Each look was utterly engaging & left this observer in awe at the vision being presented before my eyes.  Mr. Delfin has a vision that is singular in the market & plays with androgyny with such a deft skill that he is almost convincing that men & women can dress nearly alike.  He knows when to pull back & when to push further.  His color story was Gray, Black, White, Gold & the hottest of Hot Pink, which immediately conjured up memories of the late, great Stephen Sprouse.  His silhouettes were for the most part androgynous versions of menswear, with his women mostly wearing pants, often times with mushroom pleated ruffles or some similar waist detail being added to the trousers to create a sort of effect I will call a “Skant”.  His versions for women were longer & his versions for men were shorter, but identical in detail otherwise.  David Delfin is a true talent.  His aesthetic & creative restraint (he uses only the most necessary of seams) are akin to the great minimalists of our time (Raf Simons of Jil Sander comes most readily to mind) & he is well down the path to assert himself as such.

-Scott French 

Isaac Mizrahi
The Tent
In-House

For his last collection at Bryant Park, Isaac Mizrahi took guests on an Upper East Side camping trip set in Central Park. The tent was transformed with a Manhattan skyline backdrop, sheer panels of trees and a runway that resembled city sidewalks.  Mizrahi pulled from L.L Bean and Bill Blass in creating a sporty yet chic collection. The show featured live music from The Bad Plus and opened with 12 looks dubbed “Paraka Avenue.” Fur trimmed handbags, quilted jackets, dresses, giant fur trimmed hoods and fur covered backpacks flooded the runway. Mizrahi introduced his own version of camouflage on vests, slim pants and skirts. Light and airy silk plaids made last season’s fall trend chic and modern when worn as a skirt or dress. The looks that fell under the category of “Society Samurai” featured embellished dresses, skirts and coats that appeared to act as armor for the city. A series of looks in red and orange were playful, especially the bright orange “Muppetfur” coat. Sequined cocktail dresses made to look like shiny crocodile scales are the party dress for the season. For the last seven looks, models walked through the makeshift Central Park as snow gently fell from the ceiling. Model Karlie Kloss closed the show in a gorgeous dress that was cotton-candy perfection. Yet again, Isaac Mizrahi delivered sporty, wild and city-chic garments in one of fashion week’s most entertaining presentations.
-Alexandra Perron

 

J. Mendel
The Salon
Linda Gaunt Communications

Luxury is well and alive.  Gilles Mendel delivered another one of his stunning collections. There was plenty of fur; something the house knows a thing or two about, in the form of fox, beaver, raccoon, muskrat and mink.  The collection featured a mix of coats, vests, wraps and hats.   Favorites included a mahogany mink stripped stroller with brown leather trapunton belt and a belted brown dyed silver fox stripped coat.  For cocktails the black silk crepe de chine sequin tunic dress with black dyed finn raccoon jacquard strapless cocktail dress with asymmetrical draping and silk organza details that was both stunning in its simplicity and yet intricate in the way the fabric was worked.  This dress could be worn day-in day-out depending on how it is accessorized.  Lastly a cabernet silk mousseline one shoulder cocktail dress with materialized mousseline skirt and beaded cording detail also caught my eye.  It was paired with a black trapunto belt and a gunmetal pyramid brooch. Every single look was worn with sexy Louboutin booties or slouchy boots.

-Miriam Driot

 

Tommy Hilfiger
The Tent 
Paul Wilmot Communications

The story at Tommy Hilfiger was less about the clothing & more about the fact that this was to be the last show in Bryant Park before the runways move to Lincoln Center after 18 years in the park whose mere mention conjures up images of fashion strutting the catwalks.  After the overly packed house found its places (most standing) & the 200+ photographers serenaded Fern Mallis (to those who may not know-the person who founded the shows in Bryant Park) with an impromptu “Happy Birthday”, the show began, with emotions on most people’s sleeves.  The clothing could not be said to reinvent or usher in a new direction in fabric, but then again, that’s not what the Tommy Hilfiger has ever attempted to do.  Instead, he showed a well merchandised offering of men’s & women’s looks some 46 strong, that were retail friendly & tasteful to the fashion buying masses for sure.  There was one piece that did cause even the most jaded of observers to take notice.  It was a navy blue Pea Coat that had a silver lurex accent thread causing it to glisten & sparkle as it moved with every step.  It was a runway hit, but who knows what it would be like on the street, unless your street happens to have overhead, daylight correcting spots & be lined with hundreds of flash photographers documenting your every step.  Mr. Hilfiger himself came out to not only take the final bow, but bid Bryant Park adieu with a heartfelt albeit short farewell & in the process thanked Stan Herman & Fern Mallis.  The normally discreet front row presence stole the spotlight for the 2nd time this evening.  Off to 65th Street we go.

-Scott French