New York Fashion Week:
Day #2
09.10.09-

BCBG Max Azria
The Tent

The problem with BCBG of late is there is no discernable distinction from one collection to the next.  This season was no different.  BCBG has a distinct look, that’s for sure, & precisely what any well marketed company hopes to achieve.  However, I don’t know how to tell one season from the next… it all begins to look the same.  This season, Mr. Azria showed a very pleasing mélange of white, gray & green grass printed matte jersey tunic pieces; some more close to the body than others, with nearly every one making a bow at the altar of asymmetry that has gripped the fashion flock in recent years.  Don’t get me wrong, there were some really beautiful pieces shown – one Grecian/Roman cowl back number made me wish for a time machine to go back to Cesar’s Court to witness the originals in daily action – but I for one believe there are great places Mr. Azria could take this collection if he only had the courage or the desire to explore.  The fashion A-list, all of whom was sitting front row, will be waiting for the enlightenment.

-Scott French 

 

Davidelfin
The Promenade

What is identity? For the Davidelfin collection not defining a gender to clothing is identity.  Ambiguity is the core of Elfin’s designs with men & women trapped by androgyny.  Women in ties - men in tube tops all the lines are blurred. Details donned every garment & each look was a pleasant surprise arising toe to head from the fringed entrance of the runway & then once again disappearing head to toe.  Displaced sleeves, incomplete lapels, merged skirts with pants, draped dress shirts- provided pleasant surprises to otherwise ordinary garments.  With so much creativity strutting the catwalk one thing remained constant- in a brilliant move Elfin only presented his ideas in an ingenious sea foam green monochromatic color scheme.  Thus allowing the audience to not get distracted by color & focus on the mixing & matching of classic silhouettes.  The Madrileño designer brought something very different in a season of repetition & for that I have to give Elfin Felizidadas. 

-Meredith Garcia

 

Prabal Gurung
The Flag Art Foundation

As a member of the 'ones to watch' club, Prabal Gurung certainly held his own on the first official day of Fashion Week. Gurung chose to host his presentation at the popular Flag Art Foundation in Chelsea where the views are vast and the decor is minimal--which served as a perfect backdrop for Gurung's energetic and modern line.

A collection of cocktail dresses and evening-wear, Prabal's color choices where bold in mostly shades of black and white that were supported by pops of electric blue and rose red to contrast. Gurung exhibited a smaller range of silhouettes that all encompassed your typical evening out on the town: tuxedo, strapless and even a couple floor length dresses. As were the concentrated range in shapes and styles, so was the range in fabrications. As opposed to the past few seasons (with other designers) where there was a great amount of matte cotton blends, Gurung chose to embrace the luxury of silk and double-faced charmeuse as the staple threads in his line. The combination of these two fabrics worked well with Gurung's strategic cut outs and sheer appendages.  

The designer's message read clear at the presentation, he finds that a woman can be sexy in a range of evening-wear silhouettes. Whether you (as a woman) choose to adorn yourself in one of his silk tuxedos (that would be accessorized with a bow-tie--seen all over the room) or an off the shoulder asymmetrical dress, the label on your back is a name that will continue to dazzle the industry as he becomes more and more established.

-Kai Baukol

 

Monique Lhuillier
Christie’s

Crediting her inspiration to the Masai Warriors (not completely sure where they come in to play, but let’s go with it) the pregnant Monique Lhullier brought to life a lovely collection of elegant, easy-to-wear dresses.  As is expected of the red carpet designer, gowns were flirty & fun with lots of color & leopard prints to boot.  Fringe & tiering helped create an elegant silhouette on the seemingly taller than usual models who from our perspective channeled a 1940’s speak easy vibe with fedoras atop their tightly pulled back hair & heavy makeup.  The collection full of rich fabrics & strong pieces is just another notch on the successful run of Lhullier’s career. 

-Meredith Garcia

 

Rita Liefhebber
Eaglesnest Studios

Toronto transplant, Rita Liefhebber debuted her first New York showing set in a high studio above the clouds of Chelsea. With a total of 21 looks shown, Liefhebber's ready-to-wear was overtly youthful and modern. Simple silhouettes were borrowed straight from the 1980's club scene, modernized to better fit the urban trend conscious fashionista today. Body hugging mini-dresses in black and gray were highlighted by cutouts. Transparent oversized chiffon blazers were suited closely to the body, styled with slim black high-waisted leggings and sleeveless blouse underneath. A color pallet that not once left the neutrally toned muted grays, blacks and mystic blues worked cohesively for the on-trend and on-par collection.

-Kai Baukol

 

Hayden-Harnett
38th St

Geometric printed swimsuits combined with Khaki & Olive Linen over pieces — some dresses, some rompers, but all very wearable summed up the story at Hayden-Harnett’s presentation.  Set in an old carriage house, now a gallery, models lined up along the walls so closely they seemed to be “hanging out” rather than posing.  There were also cubes in the center of the room displaying more of the collection’s swimwear offerings & an ample collection of very accessible bags in various textured leathers & shapes.  A standout piece was a khaki trench with twist closures like those found on purses. The collection was overall very tightly edited & as pleasing to the eye as it will likely be to the buyers’ pencils.  The only part of the presentation that was a bit off was the live opera music being performed by the Opera Company of Brooklyn.  It was audibly an evening wear show, but visually a beachwear show.

-Scott French 

 

Vena Cava
Milk Studios

Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock brought a mixture of 20’s & 80’s inspirations to this season’s line up.  Models lounged on ladders working sexy silks, casual jodhpurs, & fun fishnet underpinnings.  Prints were inspired by bright, graphic wall murals of South Africa's Ndebele tribe without being too literal. The diverse wearable day pieces were fun & on the pulse & more editorial looks brought pure punk to the forefront channeling 90’s Versace with safety pin detailing on shirts, dresses & vests.  Cut outs of shapes were all over the collection paired with bustiers & off the shoulder tops.  Buhai & Mayock have come a long way since their first showing & based on those in attendance (hello Vogue- Barneys- Andrew Rosen) they have a bright future ahead of them. 

-Meredith Garcia

 

Ports 1961
The Tent

Tia Cibani is always one to turn to for a little escapism as she always transports us to some bygone era, or some past artistic movement – the indigenous natives of the Pacific Northwest & the founding artists of the Art Nouveau movement both come to recent memory – however, this season she was channeling the “natural" beauty of the Japanese rock gardens.  The predictable connection to the Kimono is obvious & this obvious path is the one that Cibani took, which was the only predictable choice she made this day.  The first two looks emerged on two sides of the U-shaped runway & walked around the room crossing in front of the photo risers.  The sense of ceremony was set.  What followed was nothing short of brilliant, which has become for lack of a better word… predictable… when viewing Cibani’s work.  She took the ceremony of the lengthy & painstakingly detailed Kimono Dressing Ceremony & dissected it into its elements & then expounded every tuck, every knot & every drape into garments that amazed.  Each time one left the runway, you were left breathlessly waiting for the next & as the observer was certain they’ve seen the best version, another one emerged leading one to question the last. 

Her fabrics were mostly on the muted & natural side – the colors were such that some may call it champagne, others parchment & others blush, but always muted & moody – & most of the surfaces were glazed & shiny, even on the textured fabrics.  Cowl necklines in front & back as well as origami pleated panels used as hemlines, back details, collars, etc. provided the structural elements, some of which were visible through the various overlays of sheer fabrics, usually done light over dark to further accentuate the inner workings of these pieces.  The pinnacle of fashion exasperation was realized when the last few pieces emerged which were short cocktail dress pieces in light terra cotta silk shantung that was wrapped around the body in a dramatic manner that evoked energy & drama.  The wraps continued around the body, ending in a dramatic back focal point out of which emerged a crisply folded origami corsage to ground the pieces in the theme, while providing a stunningly gorgeous focal point that was the after-thought rather than the focus, thus making the beauty of the wearer the initial focus – precisely what good high design fashion should do.  Meredith looked at me & commented, “I’ve just found my wedding dress.”

-Scott French

 

Cesar Galindo
M2 Ultra Lounge 

Get ready to take a trip back to the future with Cesar Galindo.  The feminine, yet sophisticated attire of each model was absolutely breath taking.  The unique movement & detail in every piece showed just how creative Galindo could get.  Clusters of matching buttons created imaginable angles; collars reached new heights & structured dresses formed amazing shapes.   The many colors featured in his collection were red, fuchsia, orange, taupe, gold, silver, black, and white. The beading and painted jeweled embellished details were focal points that effortlessly sculpted and controlled the look.  In short, the collection was classy, colorful and glamorous; perfect for a full house.   

-Jena Clem

 

Jen Kao
Milk Studios 

Jen Kao opened her spring/summer collection with the one thing that always screams spring: a one-piece swimsuit. The teal cut-out one piece was a great opener for the rest of Kao’s collection which featured more swimwear, blazers, well-tailored blouses, moto-jackets, slashed shorts and mini-dresses. The slashed shorts and pants were a standout in this collection – extra fabric at the pockets was layered for a slash effect which was really an interesting take on the drapery we continue to see for spring. Kao used suede to create tough motorcycle jackets and vests along with suede leather patchwork mini-skirts. The elbows of the motorcycle jackets also featured ‘X’ cut-outs which made the jacket work for spring. Eyelet hooks were exposed and used instead of buttons on both blouses and skirts. The collection featured flowing silk crepe kimono dresses worn over swim wear and knit dresses in cashmere. Chain and metal details were prominent, featured on dresses, jackets, and in jewelry. The collection was simple and modern with lots of variety. Strong tailoring was met with sheer, flowing kimono dresses and tissue jersey gowns. The collection had a subdued color palette in nude, gray, black and bone. 

-Alex Perron

 

Cuz Love Killz
Sun West 

Fresh new designers, Andrea Cuomo and Jacinto Onofre, have created a very “loud” line.   This graffiti inspired collection is screaming for attention and it may just get it next spring.  When you see the designs on the different pieces throughout the collection you will immediately know how Cuz Love Killz became the name.  Red blood drips, heart logos, gun hearts, and cold hearted prints are seen on all hooded shirts, tees, cardigans, panties and briefs.  Although love was obviously dying tonight, the graffiti spray cans and drip paint somehow complimented the bleeding heart.  This urban and morbid collection will definitely not be everyone’s favorite, but for the ones that like to look past the broken heart and think outside the graffiti covered box – this is without doubt the collection you need to keep your eye on.

-Jena Clem

 

Nary Manivong
Tela Design Center 

Nary Manivong’s collection presented at Tela Design Center was simple, yet entirely elegant. The 14-looks featured the perfect spring color palette - black, beige, chartreuse, navy and blood orange – and clean, elegant lines that make for fun & sophisticated dressing. Simple shift dresses featured black elastic waist detailing (which was also a feature of his fall collection) and beautifully cut backs allowing them to transition seamlessly from day-to-night. Draped beige pants paired with a color-blocked navy and chartreuse tank was an easy and fresh look for spring. A beige skirt with black elastic waist was paired with a chartreuse one-shoulder bra top, which would be perfect for a hot summer’s night. The simplicity and elegance of the garments was also reflected in the hairstyling of the models who featured easy beach hair yet did not look the least bit messy. 

-Alex Perron

 

Spurr
Skyline Gallery

A classical approach to Spring 2010 menswear was the scene at Spurr. Crisp tailored three piece silk-wool suits in navy, gray and brown that accompanied by European cut button-downs in fruitful colors of peach and mango. The collection had an overall modern take on 1940's sportswear, particularly with its double breasted blazers.The collection then moved to the 50's as seen in the slim baby-pink cotton trousers. The line was accessorized minimally, accented only by the cohesive use of caramel colored oxford dress shoes and the occasional tote. Though it had heavy references to threads sported by the original rat pack, the collection overall was very modern-- which suits perfectly with the trend that has been seen for the past couple seasons: clean cut boys dressed in preppy and figure slimmed attire. The breezy and vibrant color pallet was refreshing which supported a captured youthfulness to traditional silhouettes.

A Spurr customer for Spring could feel confident in his neo-classical, almost European trimmed wardrobe. A clearly dapper and sophisticated youth would stand out amongst a crowd sporting a pair of Spurr's cropped light cotton trousers with a classic tailored trench that suits for a timeless look.

-Kai Baukol

 

WAYNE
Canoe Studios 

Who would have thought architecture and fashion went so hand in hand?  WAYNE created a collection that is simplistic with new silhouettes and geometric draping.  The minimal color palette consisted of hints of yellow, metallic bronze and a sea-blue print.  The dresses were all short and fitted with many cut-outs to show off the legs.  The two-toned geometric tops and skorts, yes you read it correctly - SKORTS – definitely stole the show.  WAYNE also will be launching a leather handbag collection with five silhouettes – perfect for the creative traveling woman, and selected pieces of jewelry such as rings and cuff bracelets.   All in all expect to see sharp, structural and clean-cut lines from WAYNE in Spring 2010. 

-Jena Clem

 

Nicholas K
The Promenade 

Nicholas K.’s runway show at the Promenade at Bryant Park featured looks for both men and women that were casual, easy and somewhat sport. The show opened with neon paint splattered dresses with cut-outs (a huge trend we are seeing on every runway), bright printed dresses and color-blocked tops. These looks were joined by oversized pastel plaid shirts and tanks and paired with cuffed shorts, floppy hats and utilitarian rain jackets. The color palette included fuchsia, bright orange and teal which were balanced by more subdued shades of gray, olive green, and powder blue. The collection was very practical with options that would work well for a night out (paint splattered cut-out dresses) to the perfect spring weekend outfit (plaid shirt, rain jacket and cuffed denim shorts). Although the collection did not always feel cohesive, it makes for easy spring and summer dressing. 

-Alex Perron

Whitney Eve
The Promenade 

Whitney Port’s spring/summer collection for her line, Whitney Eve was feminine & playful. The collection consisted mainly of cocktail dresses with sweetheart necklines & rich fabrics accompanied by a few key separates. A jacquard blazer was paired with lace leggings and mini-skirts had an under layer of tulle. Pieces included elements of many of the spring trends we are seeing so far this week- soft patterns, cut-out detailing and lots of embellishments. The predominantly black & white collection was complemented with gold, silver, and blush pink. If you are looking for a flirty spring dress, complete with ruffles, bows & tulle look no further than Whitney Eve. 

-Alex Perron

 

Mara Hoffman
The Promenade 

Mara Hoffman stuck to her guns with a spring/summer collection that was all about patterns. The looks had a very tropical and tribal feel with bold prints in turquoise, violet, coral and electric blue. Dresses hit at every length with long, flowing floor length numbers to minis and knee-length pieces. The detailing in this collection was stunning and a key element to the garments. Braiding was huge with details of braided straps and mini-skirts with braided seaming. The strongest looks featured a shredded back with a braid falling down the middle. Beading was another strong detail of the garment, which when added to the bold patterns played on the tribal inspiration of the collection. While dresses were the majority, a brightly patterned jumpsuit paired with a black boyfriend blazer lined in the same pattern was a collection favorite. Mara Hoffman created a cohesive collection while using a variety of colors, patterns and silhouettes. Mara Hoffman is sure to add fun and color to your spring wardrobe. 

-Alex Perron

 

Julie Haus
93 Mercer Street 

Guests at the Julie Haus runway show, which took place at the Mercer Street pop-up boutique, enjoyed champagne and old Charlie Chaplin films while waiting for the show to begin. The collection played on flirty vs sporty looks featuring lace and ruffles and to a masculine mesh material for a jacket and skirt. Many of the garments pulled your focus to the shoulder, where many looks continued the one-shoulder trend from fall while others featured a very thin tank strap with a flowing sleeve. The standout in this collection was the graffiti printed pieces, which looked more like a toned-down Kandinsky painting than the abstractions found in an urban setting. Theses prints helped to pull in the embellished sequin collar of a blazer and the solid colors found throughout the looks. Haus showed a lot of vests, rompers and jumpsuits which pulled everything together in the end.

-Alex Perron

 

The Vessel by Lois
Chelsea

In a dimly lit Chelsea studio, Lois Samuels premiered her Spring 2010 collection in a presentation style. Models stood still while positioned on top of wooden crates scattered throughout the industrial setting. The clothes had utilitarian characteristics not seen since the depression era. Simple and clean cuts with minimal color. Charcoal dresses and jumpsuits were suited with a cotton t-shirt. A perhaps early trademark of the designer will be her spring short-suit (not to be confused with a Thom Browne crop, rather a suit that is comprised of a jacket and shorts). The color pallet was minimal as well; think a gray and winter white scheme with the occasional deep royal blue accented by mustard yellow.

The collection was cohesive, muted and simple. But one question remains; Samuels shows a lot of wool in these heavy, one piece jumpers--for spring and summer? Beyond that illusive question, it will be well received by a modern customer for weekend-wear.

-Kai Baukol

 

Boudoir D'Huitres
Hosfelt Gallery

With the common happening of fashion runways turning to presentations as a more approachable means to broadcast a fashion message, often attendees are more than happy to lay back and enjoy the scene of exhibiting clothes in a gallery setting. Sometimes, however, with so many designers showing at particular one or two hour time slot, things can get...um, unorganized to put it mildly. Yet often times we leave a gallery so pleasantly surprised with a well delivered performance by both designer and production company. So when Boudoir D'huitres showed their 2010 Spring collection, which one did they fall into? Without a doubt this was the most memorable presentation in terms of setting and exhibition for part one of fashion week.

As you walked into the far out Chelsea gallery, you were greeted by a model as she contortioned her body through a life sized frame dressed in a vibrant pink asymmetrical gown. The ceiling echoed with sounds of oceanic waves and distant wind pipes as aqua light installations were cast against the walls. An overall jelly fish theme was well received and introduced a new concept to Spring yet seen. After roaming the presentation it was apparent that the only live model was the hostess/model/performance artist at the entrance. Bold and futuristic in design and very much reflective of what has been ongoing in the industry with its strong reference to electric 1980's. A standout was the sweetheart cut mini-dress equipped with lunging pockets and finished in mustard yellow colored leather that was butter soft to the touch. Volume and structure were created with "jelly fish tendrils as guides to the ruffles and petal like draping throughout the collection. A collection that was a mermaids take to modern ethereal urban-wear worked well with its translucent overlays and luminescent color story.

-Kai Baukol