New York Fashion Week:
Day #3
09.11.09-
Yigal Azrouel
The Promenade
Graphic linear patterns, natural eco looking colors & strong graphic seaming was the overall look at Yigal Azrouel’s Spring 2010 collection show. This was the first time in my recollection that he showed his men’s & women’s collections on the same runway & as a refreshing contrast to most designers who choose this route, Mr. Azrouel actually showed two COMPLETE collections & not a women’s collection with a few men’s looks scattered throughout. Azrouel is a strong devotee of asymmetrical looks & he showed extreme versions in this collection mostly through swimwear, camisoles & bodices of dresses that had extremely distorted neckline shapes & strap placements to create an amorphous, organic feel that resulted in some of his strongest pieces. Novel too were the hand knit sweaters he presented for men that seemed to have skipped stitches here & there to create a total handcrafted look & feel. This collection broke no meaningful fashion barricades, but offered enough fresh perspective to keep the customers returning for more.
-Scott French
Jason Wu
St. Regis
Jason Wu has come a long way since his runway debut a few seasons ago. While dressing first lady Michelle Obama has put his name on everyone’s lips he must be feeling a lot of pressure to constantly top his previous collection. He should have no worries as his Spring collection confirmed his talent as a designer. His show featured beautiful short dresses, blousy tops and loose pants. His print of predilection is referred to as a Rorschach test in the program. Headpieces designed by London Milliner Stephen Jones topped the outfits. For evening a beautifully violet faille dress reflected Wu’s tailoring talents.
-Miriam Driot
Ruffian
Exit Art
The Ruffian collection by Brian Walk and Claude Morais was an art lovers dream. The duo appeared to have taken a hint from design great Yves Saint Laurent in doing an artist inspired collection, Les Demoiselles de Ruffian (a play on the Picasso masterpiece “Les Demoiselles d’Avignon”). The collection was created with a variety of fabrics including swiss dot cotton, printed linen and silk taffetas. While many of the looks took cues directly from the art of Picasso and his peers, there was also a strong equestrian and military feel to the garments. Pieces were named for the artist and his lovers, family and friends. The Paloma blouse in “Claude” print was a tribute to Picasso’s daughter. A black and white printed linen dress was simple and sophisticated and at first looks as if it was rich boucle. This illusion was fitting, as it was named after surrealist photographer, Dora Maar. There were a number of the looks that stood out amongst the ruffled taffeta skirts and sheer swiss dot tops in powder blue. A Picasso inspired embroidered hat was paired with a riding jacket and equestrian pant. The final look, a Picasso inspired hand embroidered dress was a walking masterpiece. This collection was not only enjoyable to view, but is also entirely wearable and chic for spring.
-Alex Perron
Twinkle by Wenlan
The Salon
This season Wenlan Chia gave her customer exactly what would be expected of her Twinkle by Wenlan line: a solid- wearable collection of flowy girly dresses that can be worn casually or dressed up. The palette was concentrated with raw reds & blues, hot pinks & yellows. Dresses that were draped & printed held as the focus, but it was the separates that were truly a welcomed addition. Pleated harems & zip skinny leg pants gave way to sportier looks while maintaining the structure needed to define elegance. Razor backs with cutouts ran throughout & layering of see- through fabrics built texture. Chia accomplished this season’s theme of innate opposites beautifully & as I am sure we’ve heard the pun before… Welan continues to Twinkle.
-Meredith Garcia
A Detacher
The Altman Building
The A Detacher collection for spring/summer 2010 had the perfect balance of day and night wears, all while keeping things simple and sophisticated. The color palette consisted of nude, black, gray and brown while incorporating an abstract animal print, a brown print resembling a linen and a floral print in various colors. One-shoulder dresses in the leopard print make for a great cocktail dress and printed jumpers paired with neon diamond patterned cardigans are perfect for day. All of the garments had great movement, nothing was too constricting and details such as drawstrings added to the movement of the clothing. Crochet knit was also a huge element of the A Detacher collection; black crochet dresses, tanks and a nude skirt with a layer of crochet knit kept the collection interesting.
-Alex Perron
Monarchy
The Tent
Going to Connecticut for the weekend? Make sure to pack your bag with the very best of this season’s Monarchy by Eric Kim. Kim’s line of young contemporary men’s & womenswear is the ideal laid back preppy look that keep clothing clean & accessible while adding an element of fresh edge in the mix. The redefining of prep chic taking otherwise classic looks of women in khakis & white shirting to become white boyfriend campers with paper bag shorts. Men wore cashmere cardigans & sportscoats for a sophisticated day in spring. The highly successful line is that for a reason- it’s real cloths for real people…
-Meredith Garcia
Cynthia Rowley
Gotham Hall
Muslin was the draped all over the set of Cynthia Rowley’s Spring 2010 show, including the
chairs, walls, runway… even the lighting towers… save for a short section of the main runway. Fear not, that exposed runway was soon to be covered when the show began by a huge swath of muslin falling from the ceiling directly into place as the models emerged, shockingly, clad in what appeared to be muslin dresses. Some had painted stripes as edging; others didn’t, but still very similar to muslin, if not actually so. What followed was by far one of Ms. Rowley’s most beautiful efforts to date. The collection was a tightly edited assortment of fabrics that ran the color gamut from black to lavender to gray flannel & cream. Her main print was one in the above color range that resembled a blurry water color print. Silhouettes were predictably girly, but not the least bit too young. Cynthia knows her customer better than many in the business today & never seems to disappoint. Her recent sales figures in her stores, including her newest location in Boston, are proof positive that her customers are responding in kind with their credit cards.
-Scott French
Leifsdottir
Leifsdottir Showroom West 38th
Walking into the Leifsdottir presentation was like walking into a tropical forest, except it was the kind where champagne flows freely, delicate finger foods are served and models walk around in bright, fresh and delightfully feminine garments. As models walked amongst the crowd they fanned each other with giant tropical leaves and fed the many colorful birds in white wire cages. The spring/summer Leifsdottir collection was all things femme: ruffles, florals, bright colors, polka dots and a sweet hand-painted cardigan sweater. The floral patterns were dominant throughout the collection and were tropical and playful. Kitschy prints were found on dresses and skirts. The “Curious Cat” cotton skirt featured – you guessed it – cats. A hand-painted crane cardigan and a “monkey forest” skirt transported you right into the rainforest. The styling of this collection was really phenomenal and everything was pulled together with great vintage inspired jewelry by Reverie NYC.
-Alex Perron
Nicole Miller
The Salon
Nicole Miller showed a mélange of different ideas in her Spring 2010 showing in the Salon, with some looks less body conscious than others, but most resting firmly in the close to the body – formfitting – realm of the spectrum. Several of her looks for tops were shown over black biker shorts or super slim trousers that resembled more of a tailored legging than a trouser proper. This was a statement found on many other collections of the season, so my eye was already becoming accustomed to this new, extreme silhouette. One definitive statement was “short”, both in skirted & bifurcated options. On the color front, Ms. Miller chose predominantly black, but also included white (or cream), Grass Green, as well as the two shades sweeping the season in New York thus far, Turquoise (or some version thereof) & a Marine Blue, with metallic silver also making its way in as some more formal looks. Missing were the small little intricate whimsy prints on which Ms. Miller built her empire. Instead, a larger scale marbleized print was the predominant one, which was distorted in the fashion of the body of Swedish artist Edvard Munch’s iconic work “The Scream”. Though this pattern appeared several times in the collection, it seemed most right & fresh when used in the series of blocked numbers that were set opposite panels of black.
-Scott French
Copperwheat
Maritime Hotel
The Copperwheat New York Fashion Week debut was anything but dull. Ben and Lee Copperwheat used bold graphic prints in bright neon colors to cover everything from swimwear to suiting. A neon green suit was printed with an electric blue image of a skyline and a pair of shorts with “Copperwheat” printed across them definitely left an impression on guests that gathered at the Maritime. While many of the looks were intense and not wearable for every day, a few of the black and white printed garments would work wonderfully in the office or on the weekends.
-Alex Perron
Buckler
Grand Street
Andrew Buckler chose, once again, his store located in Soho as the stage for his Spring 2010 collection. Buckler was said to have taken heavy inspiration from two significant artists of the past; a Helmut Newton photograph of fiberglass mannequins alongside human models, and Cathy Wilkes' "Non-Verbal Installation" as a reference for color..or significant lack thereof.
Buckler presented his overtly aged collection that had a strong nod to the 1960's. His multi-layered ensembles were designed to easily transition from formal to casual within a switch of a shirt or trouser. Buckler sustained his love for slim cut clothing geared toward an urban 'fashionisto' who walks the streets of the lower east side or similar setting. His color pallet, as taken from Wilkes work, was minimal with hardly any splash of color besides uses of saffron yellow. Buckler insisted this collection is versatile, relaxed and accessible--never uptight and rather comfortable for any customer to sport. Buckler's use of stripes and plaids were sustainable throughout the collection, and only added to the relaxed and polished grunge-esque look that encompassed this presentation.
-Kai Baukol
Cynthia Steffe
The Salon
“Last season’s rock ‘n roll girl has fallen in love…” states the inspiration statement from Cynthia Steffe, currently under the creative direction of Shaun Kearney. I would like to know if the kind of love that transforms a girl from “rocker” to this degree of overt, girly, femininity actually exists in reality. This collection was predictably saleable & very sweet with version after version of über feminine ruffles, cascading layers skirts, all hemmed on just this side of too short, but overall the effect was sweet & saleable… yes, I’ve used that word twice for a reason. Colors were slightly off beat pastels & creams & prints that resembled Monet florals abounded. While there were a few interesting pieces, a suede trench got a circle from many in the audience, as did a t-shirt dress of white cotton guipure lace, a meaningful “wow” factor didn’t materialize until the final four looks emerged – all of which employed some degree of sparkle, manifested as “pearl strands” sewn all over skirts, a silver jacquard strapless dress, or finally as a silver sequined dress over laid with a gossamer thin white silk.
-Scott French
Carlos Campos
21st St
Carlos Campos has been around for a while and he is known for his menswear collection. This season I was excited to see his first attempt at a women's collection.For his first foray into the women's apparel category he did not disappoint! A skillful pattern maker he presented a chic collection sure to attract a young, stylish clientele. He chose a presentation format which is always so pleasant because it allows you to get a good look at the garments, the fabrics and the cut.
Held downtown, the presentation featured models standing on a stage; there was a beautiful white satin blazer with white satin slim pants, a new take on the timeless YSL tuxedo no doubt. His tops were cut to show some skin with several one shoulder Y top in either white silk, dark navy or in a blue dot print. Jumpsuits have made a comeback and Carlos featured a metallic plum pleated pant jumpsuit. His dresses were on the fitted side such as a black strapless number with gray and yellow piping. I thought it was very strong for his first time around and found it reminiscent of Narciso Rodriguez. I cannot wait to see what he comes up with for Fall!!
-Miriam Driot
Costello Tagliapietra
Milk Studios
Every season Jeffrey Costello & Robert Tagliapietra wow me with what ultra femme & elegant designs they conjure up from their design studio in Brooklyn. Their ability to execute such an artful design sense just continues to amaze me& this season was no different. The perfectly edited & complimentary 21 looks focus on lovely drapes and lush color— using inspirations of sunset & lake prints, dresses were adorned with low v backs, accentuated waistlines & Swarovski element detailing. Following a trend that we are seeing a lot of- a number of dresses had contrasting backs that played matte against shine or print against solid- providing a slimming allusion. When all was said & done the designers dressed in their signature plaid shirts with suspenders, bowed hand in hand to the audience with sheer confidence & accomplishment of a winning collection.
-Meredith Garcia
Charlotte Ronson
The Promenade
Charlotte Ronson front of house is an experience for sure. The runway experience was more pleasing on the eye as well. Of all her looks this season, the boyfriend blazers looked most right. This is the first time this season that the boyfriend blazer has actually looked “right” & saleable without looking like costume or an overt homage to the 80’s. Of all the versions she showed, the double breasted black one she belted & topped over a pleated black skirt. Very fresh & grown up. While the shoulder pads were a bit much, & Ms. Ronson literally loves them as she uses them every season, this collection was overall a nice effort that is sure to confuse some of her audience & delight others. However, given Ms. Ronson’s resources & the access to an audience that others would literally die for, nice isn’t enough to satisfy. One must wonder, if all things were even on the talent front, but her last name were “Smith”, she lived in the Mid-West, her brother produced the local news & her sister was a deejay at the club at the Holiday Inn Lounge & dated a postal employee who delivered the tabloids, would anyone be in the audience?
-Scott French
Juan Carlos Obando
Milk Studios
When a designer has a defining moment of the sort Juan Carlos Obando had for his Fall 2009 Show, it’s a daunting task to even attempt to up the ante once again. The Juan Carlos Obando show for Fall 2009 was our favorite of that season & one of the moments in 
fashion that will forever stand out. When I write my book (hint to a publisher seeking a “fashion” themed title), JCO (as his staff calls him) will get a chapter. This season, Obando was feeling a little, make that a lot, Western as he sent his models out to a soundtrack performed by the City of Prague Philharmonic Orchestra & Chorus that sounded like a grand score for a big budget remake of the “OK Corral”.
As the models trotted out, the Obando trademark detailing was evident in the intricate draping that usually brings along with it unexpected darts & tucks to achieve a fit where the armholes are set in a full 3 inches further than normal or where skirts have no traditional side seams. The colors were for the most part earth tones resembling the colors of the desert at dusk, with the colors being named Copper, Creosote, Mud, Blood & Hematite in the run of show. The silhouettes in the 1st part were sculptural, but super wearable & a bit underwhelming, almost Mugler-esque in feel, but then the “JCO” brilliance began when the series he calls “Frontier Armour” versions 1 thru 4 & “Union Gown” versions 1 thru 3. In these 7 pieces, Juan Carlos elevated his collection back to the lofty bar he set last season. Not even being made to suffer through some of the most amateur check in staff ever encountered at a show could tarnish the brilliance of the formidable talent of Juan Carlos Obando.
-Scott French
Robert Geller
Exit Art
Following the significant showing of his Fall 2009 debut as 'GQ's Menswear Designer of the Year', Robert Geller again put together a runway that left viewers haunted by the ghostly references to another world that is Geller's reality. For his inspiration of his Spring 2010 collection, Geller imagined a beach in Northern Germany circa 1950. But a beach scene to Geller obviously means something much different than a warm and joyous time spent in a sunny paradise, rather Geller's beach is one filled with hope of a time rising out from tragedy and rejuvenated by the crisp air from a northern oceanic setting.
Opposite to Gellers's Fall 2009 collection with its obvious dramatic and almost Transylvanian silhouettes, this story is much easier, as Spring should be. There were usual Geller elements of heavy layering and deconstructive mixes of silks, cottons and cashmere, also again witnessed was a signature neck piece that reaches beyond the traditional tie--this time instead Geller accessorized many of his looks with frayed tulle bows. An overall tone on tone cool colors of mauve and cobalt accented by lavender was cohesive with his northern beach theme. Geller worked hard to introduce comfortable fabrications into his wardrobe; using washed cashmere, finely spun cotton and warn in jerseys to achieve a more inviting appeal. This collection, though having many obvious elements of the 50’s, also transcended decades. At times Geller reached back to the thirties; a very solace moment, yet one that was simpler than the times of today.
Geller has developed quite a following since his label has been launched into menswear royalty, especially in the New York and Brooklyn scene. His clothes speak worlds to many that find comfort in heavy amounts of urban degradation; the ones who find the coolest elements out of the hard knocked reality the city delivers. He has certainly proved himself to be the one to watch as he continues to grow and achieve new heights in his collections--and without a doubt one will always look forward to the unequivocal coolness that comes down a Robert Geller runway.
-Kai Baukol
