New York Fashion Week:
Day #4
09.12.09-

Christian Siriano
The Promenade

When Christian Siriano was on “Project Runway”, I wasn’t a fan.  In fact, he tended to grate on my nerves.  Since his eventual victory & over the last two seasons on his own, he has slowly grown on me.  After sitting through his Spring 2010 show, I can now more than tolerate him, I can applaud him.  I’ll even give him a standing ovation after Saturday’s show.  Siriano sent a parade of Turquoise, Red & Nude toned pieces that can only be called “show stoppers”.  In fact, more than one piece got the RARE mid-show applause from a crowd – a crowd that was noticeably more fashion professional & less “tagger-on” than his last effort.  The applause was deserved.  His silhouettes were predictably extreme with asymmetry & rakish swooping drapes used throughout, but these pieces seemed to have more to do with thought-out intent & inspiration & less to do with simply being “fierce” (to quote the designer’s reality show tag-line).  While I agree with others with whom I discussed this collection that the collection will not make it to the stores’ racks as shown, I must part ways with others who still feel Christian Siriano is nothing more than a reality sensation.  If fashion like this were a regular find of shows like “Project Runway”, the industry could stop hiring recruiters & just watch Tim & Heidi do their thing to find our next hire. This is not the case, however.  Christian Siriano is a rare talent of immense proportions & if the fashion snob cartel simply put aside their “too cool for reality TV” biases, what they’d see in his limited body of work is the beginnings of what could be a fashion empire in its infancy stages.  With Neiman Marcus & Saks sitting front row, seems clear that others are sipping from the same fashion cup as I.

-Scott French 

Chado Ralph Rucci
The Tent

Standing ovation?  Check! Impeccably tailored clothes?  Check! Chic upper-east-side ladies in the audience? Check! This amazing show used to close fashion week and it was always quite a treat to sit down to a Chado Ralph Rucci show on a Friday evening.  These days the music is a little more upbeat, but the clothes are just as stunning as ever.  The collection is entitled evolution and refinement- each garment certainly reflects that philosophy.  Rucci uses silk tulle and chiffon and sculpts them in layers.  Day coats and evening gowns of silk gazar marquisette are cut close to the body in a feminine, flattering embrace.  I always marveled at the way his models walk the runway and it appears that the late Pina Bausch’s choreography has inspired Rucci from the beginning.  No doubt Martha Stewart, Ms. Deeda Blair and the legion of faithfull customers who were present are lining up at his door to put in their orders.

-Miriam Driot

Andy & Debb
The Salon

Why this collection isn’t in the closet of every fashion forward dresser in America is a question that continues to dog me.  It’s always so full of innocent, intelligent detail that is not too precious, but at the same time not too bold.  It’s the kind of details that are so out of the box that they seem timeless.  For Spring 2010, Andy Kim & Debbie Yoon, continued on this same path with a collection that seemed to be an exercise in the use of the circle rather than some of their more novel, literal visions of seasons past (cupcakes & butterflies to be precise).  Perhaps they would say they were looking at the petals of a flower as an explanation, but it really doesn’t matter, as these clothes are simply beautiful.  Beautiful from the initial cursory glance, right down to the minute details that can only be gotten upon close inspection, most of which, sadly are missed on the runway.  Standout details include the layered organza circles at the collar & shoulder seams that fluttered just enough to draw attention as the models walked, or oversized draped collars or oversized buttons that occasionally appeared.  They seem to be real devotees of the collar as this is their most detailed element of their work.  Silhouettes too were broad in number this season, but the most interesting was one Kim & Yoon call the “curved mini dress” versions of which appeared as skirts, dresses & even a vest.  It sort of was a cross between an a-line & a bubble silhouette, but was not gathered or darted in any way, so the effect was one of molded or sculpted rather than sewn or draped.  Colors were the typical of the season — Black, Cream, Navy & White, but as a welcome surprise, the duo threw in Emerald Green & Hot Pink in a few pieces to lift the mood & to cleanse the palette with accent rather than neutrality.

-Scott French 

Bespoken
Museum of Art & Design

Referencing ultra-English menswear that is modernized to fit the urban customer who walks the paths outside of Windsor Castle, Bespoken held its Spring 2010 collection in a small gallery.  Having been granted a sneak peak of this line earlier in the Summer during Men's Market week, one was more than ecstatic to see the full presentation after beingdelighted by the simple and classical approach to modern sportswear witnessed along the showroom racks. The result was a clean and modern presentation, decked head to toe in slimmed suits and clean lines.

Bespoken's offers its fans the same quality that is fabricated on Saville Row, yet appeals to the youth and fashionably forward men that harbor in far more elusive settings than that of the lobby at Claridge's. Three piece seer sucker suits shaded in neo-gray that served as a staple in the diminutive pallet. Tab collar shirts are perhaps a signature to the collection as well to the brand. The collection easily transitions easily from business formal to weekender casual. Bespoken's promise to deliver tailor made skinny silhouettes along with impeccable quality brings an end to any questions; there is nothing antiquated about this modernly forward English label.

-Kai Baukol


VPL by Victoria Bartlett
Pier 59 Studios 

Pier 59 was packed for the VPL by Victoria Bartlett spring/summer 2010 runway show. The collection was all about the details in construction and movement. The neutral collection was supplemented with pops of orange, navy and coral along with sequins details and organic prints. Asymmetrically cut shift dresses and exquisite drapery made for garments with great movement on the runway. Romper harnesses made clean lines interesting, especially when paired with a bra top and high-waist underwear. The 16 finale looks consisted of sheer dresses with sequined undergarments – the favorite being the “sequin harness undi” that was paired with a vest, corset bra and a coral color wedge heel. Bold statement necklaces designed by Lizzie Fortunato Jewelry for VPL added a bit more edge to the collection. 

-Miriam Driot

Karen Walker
The Altman Building 

Karen Walker’s collection came straight from the seaside to The Altman Building. Her collection was all things nautical with a hint of 60’s psychedelic. Navy blazers with gold buttons were paired with quirky prints in green, orange and brown. Striped shirts, navy ruffle dresses and a white bird print made this collection the ultimate beach and weekend collection. Pops of yellow and red found their way onto geometric print dresses and cashmere silk sweaters. Jackets were a key part of many looks including a pvc cape that any guest would have been happy to walk out wearing on this rainy day. 

-Alex Perron

 

ADAM
Milk studios

Adam has mastered the style of American sportswear. Known to cut a mean t-shirt he also creates beautiful, easy-to-wear dresses and Spring is the perfect season for his creations.  His customer is a stylish girl about town who likes to wear his citron georgette layered flounced dress.  This season he inspired himself from a trip to Lamu, off the coast of Kenya, and his collection is reflecting the multi-cultural aspect of this far away destination by featuring an array of fabrics from jersey to linen to silk twill.

-Miriam Driot

 

Band of Outsiders
Milk Studios

A return to the beach was all the fuss at Band of Outsiders Presentation held at Milk Studios. Having reserved the large gallery space as his chosen venue, Scott Sternberg definitely warmed up the brisk and rainy New York evening with the installation of his sandy beach scene that looked as fresh as the coast of California itself. Having taken inspiration from both coasts with the laid back fashions seen in the West mixed with the nautical nods found in the East, Sternberg presented an overtly beachy collection.

Models lounged against the sandy scenes while conversing with each other (as if being examined in a sailor coat at Milk Studios is in everyday occurrence) providing a casual atmosphere. Boys sported cuffed chinos, paired with madras button downs and nautical navy blazers. Women looked comfortable in their safari short jumpers and banded striped pencil skirts that were styled with an oversized button downs. Men sported what else, Sperry Top Siders (from the Band of Outsiders collaboration), with the females choosing strappy flat Manolos that met preppy with gladiators (also in collaboration with Sternberg's label). Not to mention both sexes donning aviator sunnies to finish the sandy ensembles.

Band of Outsiders sporty collection will no doubt translate well to California, New York, Austin, Atlanta, Chicago...the list goes on. No matter what part of this country you reside in, Band of Outsiders presented an all American style--a look that’s effortless. 

-Kai Baukol

Richard Chai
Cedar Lake

Richard Chai has been seducing us for several seasons and his Spring/Summer 2010 collection was LOVEly…no pun intended but since the theme was LOVE it seems an appropriate adjective.  His show took place in the beautiful space on west 26th Street that belongs to the Cedar Lake Dance company.  If anyone needed a good reason to stick to yoga and spinning classes through the harsh days of winter this collection’s many styles of shorts are it: ivory and black cotton windowpane bucket shorts, classic high-waisted shorts, white shadow striped cotton/linen structured shorts, bottle green lightweight linen/viscose slouchy drawstring shorts came down the runway worn with sexy heels created especially for Richard Chai by Alexandre Birman.  Eco-friendly bamboo was weaved into the collection as an ivory bamboo jersey seamed Henley tank top paired with a boyfriend blazer in khaki cotton/poly pladino.  An exquisite swirl print in teal made an appearance in several items: a ruffled top, an oversized sack dress and a sleeveless ruffled tiered dress.

-Miriam Driot

Lacoste
The Tent

This was a show we almost didn’t go to.  Early morning time slot, late night the night before, every excuse possible… thankfully, professionalism won out over personal excuses & we showed.  What followed was everything a show should be & made us thankful we made the trek to the tents to take this in.  Lacoste, many may argue, is a one note musical score – the classic polo with the ubiquitous alligator logo, which I for one cannot rememberNOT being in my wardrobe – but we were quickly informed, this is a full collection, including its classic tennis gear, swimwear, golf separates & some of the best resort/spring/summer day looks that I’ve seen on the runways to date.  The white, crisp cotton palazzo pants combined with the best proportioned classic navy blazer was the show stopper – for no other reason than it just looked incredibly “right” & infinitely cool.  This ensemble alone transported my mind to a yacht off Newport on a lazy, hazy August afternoon enroute to the tender to be taken into town for an afternoon stroll & a cocktail or two, or three, or…  

Of course, the staging didn’t hurt, as the models strolled down a long wooden pier, a few carrying tennis rackets, to a soundtrack which began with a much amplified volley on a tennis court with the “thwack” of the ball coming off the rackets being stereophonically moved about the room to create the feeling of actually being the tennis ball.  There were even some visual high jinks when twin models walked out side by side wearing matching stripped outfits that were positive-negatives of one another & the final walk around which involved the entire cast walking out in acid yellow green ensembles from eyeglasses to clothes to shoes when the entire show had been a parade of white, navy, turquoise & indigo.  The Europeans pride themselves on staging fashions shows of a magnitude that few Americans if any can ever hope to achieve.  This was one of them.  It made the alarm going off early not seem so painful.

-Scott French  

Altuzarra

Milk Studios

Joseph Altuzarra is definitely one to watch!  I first discovered him last season after a friend suggested I go see his presentation and his Fall collection blew me away.  He has worked for Marc Jacobs and for the famed French house of Givenchy and this experience certainly explains the level of sophistication and craftsmanship that shines through.  For Spring, he showed at Milk Studio and while, thankfully, there has not been many celebrities at fashion shows this season, it was nice to see actress Rachel McAdams.  But perhaps more importantly French reigning queen of fashion publishing, Carine Roitfeld, editor-in-chief of French Vogue, was there to support this talent.  His collection featured beautifully cut suede jackets, skirts and dresses with a 70’s flair.  Joseph collaborated with Gianvito Rossi to create the sexy sandals and booties that were featured throughout the collection.  One of my favorite outfits was the white dotted-swiss chiffon blouse body with San Gallo lace, crinkle chiffon and cotton “cursive” trimming paired with Khaki silk jersey skirt.

-Miriam Driot

Academy of Art
The Tent

This year graduates from the Academy of Art made a strong showing at Bryant Park. All seven designers showed off their talents in construction, graphic design, and tailoring. Marina Nikolaeva Popska played with colors and organic patterns in her collection of knitwear. The garments were rich in both texture and color. Kara Sennett’s wool and vinyl collection consisted of clean lines and geometric patterns. A pink wool tunic featured a white wool belt outline and a beautifully cut mustard vest made this collection. Amanda Cleary’s collection featured the spring essentials: cutouts and geometric color blocks. The dresses were simple, yet chic with interesting fabric textures. The standout collection came from Richelle Valenzuela who was inspired by gem-cutting and used silk organza to turn his inspiration into truly beautiful clothing. Dresses and skirts danced down the runway in slate blue and gunmetal gray. Paired with white tops, these pieces were intricate and elegant. Brittney Major showcased a collection of brightly colored plaids. The playful collection included a sleeveless trench and a ruffled dress. Jie Pan’s collection was the perfect balance between hard and soft. The collage dresses made with horsehair, silk chiffon, linen and organza were structured yet had soft draped backs. Origami-like details and glass mosaics from Thai Buddhist temples inspired Sawanya Jomthepmala’s collection. The bold geometric prints were like an optical illusion using black and white with neon green and pink. Jackets and pants featured origami-like folds and detailing. 

-Alex Perron

United Bamboo
Altman Building

Duo Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham of United Bamboo imagined a guest list filled with attendees donning sparkly cocktail dresses and silky silhouettes at a garden party as detailed by their Spring 2010 collection. The enchanting mix of prints coloring strapless tea-length dresses worked cohesively to compliment the silky and sequined liquid black ensembles that first strutted down the catwalk. Organically compiled constructions of satin metallic finished overcoats and green emerald linen shifts were spectacular and fresh for Spring.

United Bamboo stressed that in these times [with a recession that plagues the fashion industry], nature is on our minds more than ever. Natural, yet clean and defined elements were certainly observed at the United Bamboo Spring runway. The clothes spoke strongly to an elegant garden lounge, filled with lush and silky colorful Asian prints, bedazzled yet light jumpers and silken billowed trousers suits. An invitation to such an event that United Bamboo hosts would be a most memorable experience that serenely salutes Nature, yet is glamorous enough to have been created with art at the top of the this duo's agenda.

-Kai Baukol


Leanne Marshall
Metropolitan Pavilion

We all remember Project Runway superstar Christian Siriano (who indecently is reviewed above), but there have been a few other big talents that have come out of the larger than life reality show.  One such talent & season 5 winner, Leanne Marshall brought her A game to her debut showing proving her design chops are more than just the 15 minutes of reality fame.  Marshall’s ability to construct beautiful, girly, & wearable pieces is a given, but mix in her creativity & construction & we have a star on our hands.  The collection of pale peaches, whites, grays, & lime green was perfectly executed.  With focus on the tiny details of structure & volume.  Silhouettes accentuated the tiny waste with cinching to an exaggerated hip with flaps that perfectly covers any problem areas with pockets.  She used chinsed linen to keep the feel light & breezy for spring.  Every look was well thought out & could easily be merchandised in some of the most coveted stores across the country. 

-Meredith Garcia