New York Fashion Week:
Day #7
09.15.09-
Temperley London
Milk Studios
There’s nothing I hate more than clowns (well, I take that back… Mimes do trump clowns). When I walked into the Temperley London presentation & was told that the Circus is Alice Temperley’s inspiration, I had my doubts. I took a deep breath & walked in. I wasn’t going to allow a clown steal my fashion moment. If you put aside the clowns for a moment & overlook some of the at times too literal references to court jesters & harlequins, these piece were actually lovely, well made, fashion &, dare I say it… fun. That’s right, I found something relating to a clown fun. The collection mostly in Black & White with a splash each of Purple, Light Turquoise, Red & Gray thrown in for good measure, was made up of a range of silhouettes from slim skirts, to full pants to drapey dresses & jackets of all proportions, some with short sleeves. The most interesting pieces were the sheer mesh in cream or black that were over embroidered with thick scroll work that created a trompe l’oeil effect of wrought iron. To lend to the festive atmosphere, the best stocked beverage bar of fashion week & bite size cupcakes from Crumbs were served. Long live the Queen!
-Scott French
Tibi
The Promenade
A breath of fresh air entered New York City when Tibi’s 2010 Spring collection took the runway. Color, color, color was a reassurance that fashion can still be beautiful and fun without being too precious. A feel of lush gardens and abstract florals came to mind as origami laser cut bubble skirts and sequined blouses entered the Promenade Tent. Tibi’s collection was a mix of icy pastels and intense saturated color. This is definitely the ready-to-wear collection of the season, shamelessly pretty and feminine, women everywhere should definitely indulge themselves in Tibi. It’s perfect for day to evening attire, a nice stroll in the park, Sunday brunch, and a night out with the ladies. There is something from this collection that everyone will be able to enjoy this Spring – Silk blazers, pleated trousers, cropped back blouse, chiffon dresses, and that’s just the beginning. The collection was hands down just what any stylish, chic woman needs to look for this season. It’s beautifully breathtaking!
-Jena Clem
Susan Cianciolo
Next Image Studios
With a commitment to using recycled fabrics and eco-friendly techniques in her garments, Susan Cianciolo's handcrafted garments feature unfinished edges and a patchwork aesthetic that wouldn't garner a passing grade in most design schools. Looking around the presentation of her Spring/Summer 2010 collection, however, it is clear that she has developed a group of likeminded followers who understand and appreciate her designs (and presumably buy them as well). The presentation entitled "The Wisdom of Flowers" began with a musician playing some unidentified string instrument while sitting cross legged on the wooden floor, and eventually models began slowly meandering down the “runway” which was scattered with flower petals and dried herbs. After 45 minutes of this, I had to rush to another show, and I left the designer to her loyal fans. With everyone seemingly still entranced by the designs, I couldn’t help but feel like she has something figured out with this flower power.
-Anna Sandberg
Fabiola Arias
28th St
Fabiola Arias presented her debut New York Fashion Week collection of Afro Cuban Spiritualism inspired dresses. The Cuban born designer took her fine art background & research of symbolism & color to execute a strong effort of fun, ornate cocktail dresses. The promising collection was not sketched in advanced rather created directly with forms applying a plethora of tulle, organza & chiffon to create the artsy textures & girly silhouettes. Arias, a graduate of Parsons is showing her next collection in Tokyo after winning sponsorship for the Fall 2010 Japan Fashion Week. Needless to say she is a newcomer worth watch.
-Meredith Garcia
Dennis Basso
The Promenade
Everyone knows that Dennis Basso has a magic touch with fur. He manages to insert that very wintery material into his beautiful Spring collection. This particular collection was about fluid movement and a nod to the ballerinas of Degas. There was a stunning bronze metallic chiffon gown paired with a natural broadtail bolero, perfect for opening night at the ballet. A navy silk charmeuse dress worn under a navy organza and broadtail embroidered jacket is the perfect outfit for a night out on the town. He says that evening clothes are a passion for him and he is true to his word. There are pieces for women of all ages and for all occasions.
-Miriam Driot
Will McLeod
Park Avenue South
On the 3rd floor of a rare tenement building on Park Avenue, above a nail salon was found Will McLeod’s Spring 2010 “collection” – one of those rare little treats that renews one’s faith in the notion that fashion is indeed a creative enterprise where true beauty can still triumph over the doldrums of cutting fabric into shapes then when sewn together can loosely be called, well… fashion. What greeted us when we opened the door to the photo studio McLeod chose as his venue (no doubt used as the result of a favor, or for trade), were simple 4 dress forms positioned in a diagonal in the smallish open area of the space. On them were 4 little gems of fashion wizardry of the sort that only comes along every few seasons & never from an established “house” but rather from an unknown newcomer, as artistry of this sort can usually only be achieved without any of the distractions that come along with running a “real” business.
The story was composed of aqua, light turquoise & cream organza, chiffon & mesh/tulle that were layered & stitched into silhouettes that achieved sculptural proportions via carefully placed ruffles, pleated panels, shirring & gussets & godets. Every seam was French finished, every chiffon was backed in the lightest of tulle for support, every hem was edged in gazar bias, not a detail was left unchecked, down to the pockets hidden in the seams of skirts. These garments were nearly couture in proportion & execution… all this from a recent graduate of FIT. Even the nails on the forms were painted in a speckled pattern resembling the bloodied shark’s teeth Mr. McLeod sent along with his invitation. When asked why the bloody shark’s teeth, he responded, “To add an element of gore.” Of course.
-Scott French
G-Star
Hammerstein Ballroom
Always the showmen the innovative denim brand out of Amsterdam did it again. The undoubtedly fun show presented a luxury to street aesthetic by playing with silhouettes of models that emerged from five moving cylinders in an intricate & choreographed runway show accompanied by an intense mix of music.
G-Star designers demonstrated the signature denim craftsmanship with architectural techniques for pants (think super low crotches) and sophisticated tailoring for jackets & tops creating entirely new silhouettes. Washes encompassed the complete life-cycle of denim, from the darkest raw through bright blues and bleached to non-dyed ecru. Taking cues from vintage Mediterranean ‘high society’ to create a wardrobe with a defined style. For women the brand presented a feminine yet powerful and self assured look with dresses, luxury beachwear such as high-waisted bathing suits and hotpants. Key pieces for men were the cropped chino’s and modern classic broad shouldered jackets accompanied with suspenders of faux-shirt tails. Key print included that of a Piranha on shirtings & dresses. Needless to say the show was impacting, the celebrities were in full force & the clothing continues to get better with every passing season.
-Meredith Garcia
Max Azria
The Tent
Max Azria was feeling destructive, or make that deconstructive, when he designed his eponymous collection this season. The results were the best of his three efforts (BCBG, Herve Leger & Max Azria). With a strong late 80’s feel, but not the least bit of an homage, he slashed slip dresses to varying degrees & in various locations to create his own take on the season’s one universal trend, that being surprise slits in garments giving a peek of what’s underneath. At times Mr. Azria outlined the slashes with gold sequins or jewels to create a dressier version. On occasion, he draped one of the cutouts over the arm to create a sort of modified cap sleeve feeling. The look of deconstruction was further completed when he sent out a few pieces that had bodices &/or skirts that were constructed of boning along the lines where the seams should be. The look was of a building either being built or torn down. The colors further developed the somber feeling of deconstruction – Black, White, Grays (from Dove to Charcoal), & Nude with Gold Metallic serving as the one uplifting visual cue.
-Scott French
